However, if you are like most, and you’re only upgrading a bathroom, kitchen, or other project that requires only a skilled contractor, then you and your contractor will be responsible for the environmental and energy-saving considerations. We have a few tips that may be helpful.

In this section we’ll discuss structural wood panels, insulation, doors and windows, passive solar, lighting, roofing, exterior finishes, water-saving fixtures, energy-saving appliances, heating and cooling, and other topics related to “green building.” Unfortunately, we’ll only hit the high spots. An in-depth discussion is a book within itself, and there are some good books that you can find at your local library that will provide you with specific and detailed information on most any topic related to “green” living.

Structural insulated panels – Replaces traditional wall framing, reducing wood consumption and is more energy efficient than traditional framing. Structural panels are both strong and more resistant to air infiltration than are walls built with standard 2 x 4 studs, have higher “R” ratings, and more resistant to outside noise.

Insulation – Many new types of insulation offer advantages over the conventional materials used just a few years ago, and new materials are being introduced every year. Some of the new products are more environmentally friendly and less toxic than those with which you may be familiar. Icynene, the only spray-foam insulation certified by the Envirodesic air quality improvement certification program, is a great insulation and also reduces sound transmission. The advantages of some of the new materials are: less susceptibility to settling, higher “R” value, fire resistance, elimination of infiltration, and reduction of convective heat loss. Check with your contractor to see what is available in your area.

Doors and windows – Replacement doors and windows are available that can dramatically reduce both infiltration and passive energy loss. In many cases doors and windows can be replaced without replacing the existing frame, thus reducing installation costs. Check with your contractor.

Roofing – A new breed of roofing materials are more durable, long-lasting, and energy efficient, and some are even made from recycled materials. If you are planning to use asphalt shingles, a common choice in most regions, look for shingles made from recycled content. There are also fiber cement shingles, those made from plastic or rubber, and roofing made from various metals such as aluminum. If you are planning a new roof, you should also consider installing a radiant barrier on the underside of your roof. This will dramatically reduce attic heat and infiltration into the living space below.

Passive solar – Often overlooked, taking advantage of passive solar can add to both comfort and energy savings. Discuss orientation, window placement, and wall and floor materials with your architect or builder to reap the free benefits of the sun’s energy.

Exterior materials – The choice of exterior finish materials is much more than just appearance; certain materials are more energy efficient, environmentally friendly, and aesthetically pleasing. Your contractor and local building supply house can show you a number of options including fiber cement, artificial stone, natural cedar, recycled plastic, locally produced brick, or natural stucco.

Lighting – The first step in creating energy efficient lighting is to take advantage of the available natural light, to use windows and light tubes or channels to allow the sun’s light in. Be cautious when using traditional skylights, however, as they often are energy wasters; and improper installation can result in leaking which may be difficult to resolve. In warmer regions, skylights can also generate too much heat in the living space. Also, try to use as many fixtures as possible that will accept LEDs or compact fluorescent light bulbs. When using recessed fixtures make certain they are “IC” rated, which means they can be covered with insulation, reducing infiltration.

Flooring – There are many new flooring materials that are environmentally friendly, attractive, and less expensive than some of the more traditional materials. Flooring such as bamboo, which is actually a grass, is both renewable and beautiful. Harder than traditional oak flooring, prefinished bamboo is durable and comes in a variety of shades. For those who choose carpet, there are several options made from recycled material that offer the look and feel of traditional carpet. Other options are cork, recycled content tile, and natural linoleum. A good flooring contractor can discuss your flooring options.

High-efficiency plumbing fixtures – Sometimes referred to as “low-flow,” the new breed of plumbing fixtures are hardly that. Technological advances incorporate air to boost the flow of water, allowing faucets, shower heads, and toilets to function with more force than their water-wasting cousins. Specify products that carry the WaterSense certification, a designation of the EPA. Such fixtures will save you both water and money.

EnergyStar® appliances – When replacing appliances or mechanical equipment, look for those with the EnergyStar® logo. You’ll be helping the environment and your energy budget.

Plastic Plumbing Pipe – New innovations in plastic plumbing pipe can save both money and help protect the environment and may be superior to their more expensive, resource depleting counterparts. Long the standard for water supply, the cost of copper pipe has encouraged manufacturers to develop less expensive alternatives, such as Pex; and some of the new materials offer advantages in addition to cost. Check with your plumber and get a recommendation for your project.

Why would that be, you might ask? It’s really quite simple and is based upon the law of supply and demand. When building activity is at its peak, both building materials and labor are at a premium; but when activity is low, contractors and suppliers cut prices in order to maintain the necessary volume to remain in business. We’re currently in one of those times.

While that doesn’t mean that every deal offered is a good one, homeowners who are willing to spend some time doing comparison shopping will find great deals and contractors eager to provide both great service and prices. Unfortunately though, there are always a few unscrupulous contractors, desperate for business who are willing to lie, cheat, or steal in order to fatten their wallets. We’ll give you a few tips to avoid the crooks.

Always ask for recent references (preferably a half-dozen or more) and then check them out—all of them. If you can view some of the most recent jobs, that’s even better. NEVER pay money up front before the job is started or material is delivered. Small contractors may tell you they have to have up-front money to begin the job, and if you agree, you risking losing all of it.

One way to get around this problem is to arrange to pay for the material yourself. In fact, you may be able to supply all of the material and have the contractor supply labor only. The negative side of this is large jobs where you may not have any idea of what the material will cost. (In the past I did a number of such jobs, including building entire houses, supplying labor only. However, I always provided my customers with a written estimate of all material costs and updated it as the job progressed.) If you’re comfortable with such an arrangement, it can offer significant savings. Then, if you are buying from a local home center, you may be able to get a discount if you use their credit card, or you can charge the total to an awards card. Either way, you will have additional savings from the transaction.

Demand lien waivers (available at office supply stores or online) to protect you from subcontractors or suppliers who don’t get paid. Lien waivers should be requested each time a payment is made to the contractor.

Additional Savings Opportunities:

Shop for materials at local “salvage stores.” While you may assume that such stores carry only junk or damaged materials, that’s not the case. I’ve often saved hundreds on returned or slightly damaged doors and windows that were equal to or better than those for which I had originally budgeted. The key is to make certain the items fit your needs, both for energy efficiency and appearance.

Do some of the work yourself. Those who are handy, and some who are not so handy, will still find some tasks on their project where they may be able to save by providing some of the labor. Jobs as simple as site clean up, painting, screwing down a subfloor, or installing insulation can easily be done by anyone who has ever operated a hand drill or paint roller. Check with your contractor to see if providing labor on your job makes sense.

Check online for appliances, light fixtures, ceiling fans, special doors and windows, and finish materials. While you may not choose to order online, you can at least do some comparison shopping; and you may find local dealers of which you were unaware.

Investigate all your materials options. For instance, if you are painting the trim work, there are options that are much less expensive than wood, many of which will provide a better finish with less effort. There are molded trims that look great and, once painted, can’t be distinguished from real wood. Some of these materials, however, do not do well in high moisture areas and especially don’t like getting wet. In such cases you’re better off with wood.

Use your computer to check for substitute and less expensive options for all your material needs. There are some great sources of information where you can compare materials, costs, and ease of installation.

Reprinted by permission from TheHousingGuru.com

In many cases, improper truss modifications are found by a municipal inspector, or home inspector for a prospective buyer, after a house is put on the market for sale. Remedial work is then usually necessary to allow the sale to proceed. Concepts for the most common modifications are discussed below. A qualified professional engineer should be consulted for all truss modifications.

BASIC PRINCIPLES
Roof trusses are an assembly of wood pieces (most often 2×4s) connected together with steel plates to form a unified structural member. Within the industry, a truss is referred to as a “component”. A truss serves the same purpose as any beam, which is to support loads across open space. This basic principle applies to roof trusses, even though the shape is obviously different than a “straight” member (such as a 2×12) that is more recognizable as a beam. The truss does behave quite differently than a solid, straight beam. Each member (piece) of the truss must resist force in tension or compression, parallel to the length of the member.

The key principle to understand, relative to modifications, is that every member of a truss is essential for adequate performance. If a truss member is cut or removed, the entire truss becomes defective, unless remedial work is performed to properly redistribute loads around the modified part of the truss. Cutting or removing a truss member has essentially the same effect as making a cut through the entire depth of a solid beam, such as a 2×12 floor joist. Roof trusses typically require lateral bracing, perpendicular to the plane (length) of the truss. This bracing should not be removed, especially for trusses with relatively long “web” members.

TERMINOLOGY
To understand discussion of roof trusses, it is necessary to understand standard terminology. Reference to a truss diagram is of course useful. The Wood Truss Council of America (WTCA) provides basic information, including diagrams, on their web site; http://www.sbcindustry.com.

Understanding the following terms is necessary to clearly discuss residential roof trusses;
Joint Location – where truss members intersect.

Truss member – Individual piece (segment) between joints.

Long chord – members may consist of two or more segments joined by light-gauge steel splice plates.

Bottom chord – One or more members that form the bottom of the truss. Bottom chord members are most often horizontal. However, for some applications, such as a “cathedral-type” ceiling, bottom chord members may be sloped.

Top chord – One or more members that form the top of the truss, which also forms the roof surface. Top chord members are most often sloped. For the simple gable (”A”) roof, there will be two lines of top chord members; one for each roof slope.

Web Truss – member between bottom chord and top chord. A web member is almost always vertical or sloped.

Connection plate – Light-gauge steel plate used to connect the various wood members. Plates are installed at the factory. It is not practically feasible to install the standard connection plates at the site.

TYPICAL TRUSS MODIFICATIONS
Roof trusses are most often modified to install an opening in the ceiling under the roof. The ceiling is attached to the underside of the truss bottom chords, which also support any attic floor that may have been installed. One typical reason for making an opening is to install folding stairs to provide access to the attic space. Almost all residential roof trusses are spaced at 24-inches. Clear space between bottom chords of adjacent trusses is then 22-1/2 inches. If the length of the opening (for folding stairs) is parallel to the trusses, the frame for the stairs if often too wide to fit within the available space between trusses. Therefore the bottom chord of one truss must be cut.

In some cases, the only way that the stairs can be useful is to install the length of the stair opening perpendicular to the trusses. For this orientation, the bottom chord of several trusses may have to be cut. As noted above, when a truss member is cut or removed, the truss is no longer capable of supporting load across the full span of the truss, between ends.

EVALUATION
Before cutting any member of a truss, an evaluation should be made to determine how the cut truss will be supported and reinforced after the modifications. Of course in many cases, this evaluation must be performed after the truss has already been cut. First step is to determine if there may be interior walls that can be used as a bearing wall, to support the modified truss. In many cases interior bearing walls are available, especially when new folding stairs are installed above a hallway. A bearing wall must have adequate support under the wall. A continuous “load path” must then be available so that all loads supported by the bearing wall can be safely transferred through the structure, all the way down to foundation elements.

CUTTING BOTTOM CHORD – WITH INTERIOR BEARING WALLS
If a bearing wall is available for each segment of the bottom chord (that was cut), each segment can usually be supported on a wall. However, some reinforcement of the truss may be required, such as installing a new 2×4 or 2×6 against the bottom chord. New web members may also be required, with adequate connections made by plywood “gussets” and either nails or wood screws.

CUTTING BOTTOM CHORD – WITHOUT INTERIOR BEARING WALLS
In the event that interior bearing walls are not available (for both segments of the cut bottom chord), the following work is required;
1. Install a header across each end of the truss bottom chord that has been cut. This will require two headers, which fit between adjacent full-length trusses that have not been cut.
2. Install light-gage steel joist hangers or other hardware to connect cut end of the truss bottom chord to the header.
3. Reinforce the full-length adjacent trusses as necessary to support new “point” load from the headers. Structural analysis by a qualified professional engineer is required to determine the extent of reinforcing necessary. If possible, analysis should be performed by the truss manufacturer.
4. Install joist hangers to support each end of each header, at the reinforced full-length trusses.

Installation of headers is practical when only one or two trusses have been cut. However when several trusses have been cut, it may not be practical to reinforce the full-length adjacent trusses due to the relatively large point loads imposed by the long headers.

CUTTING TOP CHORD
When a top chord must be cut, perhaps for a new skylight, repair requirements are similar for the case of cutting the bottom chord. However, installation of new web members is more likely to be necessary.

CUTTING WEB MEMBERS
When a web member must be cut, the truss can often be modified by installing new web members near the location of the cut web. However, when this is not feasible, much more extensive reinforcement of the truss will be required.

REPAIR OF DAMAGED TRUSS MEMBERS
In general, it is always possible to repair a damaged truss member using relatively simply methods. Damage can occur for many reasons, including impact during construction. Many trusses that are damaged by construction workers are not repaired by the builder. Essentially, another wood member must be installed alongside, and securely connected to, the damaged member. More difficult is repair of damaged steel connection plates. Much larger plywood gusset plates often must be installed to provide the same connection capacity.

For more articles by this author, please go to Helium.com

John F Mann, PE
Structural Support
1212 Main Street, Suite 2
Belmar NJ 07719
732-556-6080
jmann77@optonline.net

My homeowner clients often ask me (as their engineer) to recommend a contractor. Although I do provide recommendations, I emphasize that the owners must obtain adequate information by asking questions. Owners should also obtain quotes from two or more contractors.

INFORMATION WITH QUOTATION
Except for perhaps a very small project, a written quotation should be obtained from each contractor bidding on the work. The quote should include the following information;
1. Clear, detailed description of work to be performed. For large remodeling projects, design documents may be necessary. If applicable, design documents should be referenced in the written scope of work. The issue of design is discussed below.
2. Proposed schedule and provisions for delays, both expected and unexpected.
3. Working hours and conditions of work, such as requirements for keeping the site free from hazards.
4. Standard regulations that govern work, including contractor license. Provisions about a building permit should be included.
5. Evidence of insurance (general and workers compensation).
6. Provisions to govern “change orders”, which are changes made or requested by the owner after construction proceeds.
7. Cost breakdown as appropriate considering the size and complexity of the project. Costs for various options should be listed if applicable.

Any “standard” agreement proposed by the contractor should be reviewed very carefully by the owner. Such “standard” agreements are always written to favor the contractor, sometimes unfairly. For any project, attorney review of a written agreement should be considered. For larger (more costly) projects such as a large addition, attorney review should be considered even more. The owner should propose (or insist on) reasonable modifications and additions to a written agreement submitted by the contractor. If the contractor attempts to resist such reasonable modifications, the owner should look for another contractor.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION WITH OR AFTER QUOTATION
If a quotation appears reasonable, owners should obtain the following additional information. If this information is obtained verbally, owners should of course take notes;
1. Qualifications and experience of persons responsible for construction work. For larger projects, focus should be on qualifications and experience of persons responsible for supervision (project manager or foreman).
2. Experience with similar projects. Focus on more recent experience and (especially) on the experience of construction supervisors.
3. References, especially for larger projects

ROLE OF CONTRACTOR
A key issue to consider upfront is the proper role of the contractor, which is often not understood by home owners. For any project involving construction work (as opposed to maintenance), there are two basic functions to consider; design (or planning) and construction. Design is essentially the planning process required to determine what work must be performed to obtain the intended result. Although a contractor may perform some or all of the design function, the primary role of the contractor is to perform construction in accordance with design requirements.

DESIGN
Design results in a set of instructions that are usually written in some form. For large projects, design documents will include drawings (plans) and written specifications. For small-scale projects, such as remodeling a bathroom, a homeowner may be able to perform much of the basic design function.

An experienced, qualified contractor should also be able to perform the design function, working with the homeowner. Additional design assistance can usually be obtained from fixture suppliers or equipment manufacturers. Even large additions and completely new homes are sometimes designed by a contractor (builder), although a design professional (architect, engineer) is required in many states.

The essential point to understand, especially for larger projects, is that the person or persons responsible for the design function must be qualified. Failure to understand this essential requirement has resulted in untold numbers of unhappy homeowners (along with lawsuits) after grossly defective work becomes evident.

Design documents (properly prepared) are essential to ensure (or at least try to ensure) that different contractors provide bid prices for the same scope of work. Without design documents, it is very difficult for the homeowner to determine the differences between the scope of work that each contractor is using.

When a licensed design professional (architect, engineer) is necessary or desired, the homeowner usually hires the professional. The design professional may also provide inspection activities for the owner.

For some projects, a general contractor will provide design services, along with construction. If necessary, the contractor will hire an architect or engineer. This method of project delivery is known as “design-build”. Although a design professional always has an obligation to protect the public, design-build can be problematic for a homeowner due to the inherent potential for conflict of interest.

John F Mann, PE
Structural Support
1212 Main Street, Suite 2
Belmar NJ 07719
732-556-6080
jmann77@optonline.net

The Internal Revenue Code section 25C tax credit for existing homes, which had expired at the end of 2007, was reinstated as part of the economic rescue package passed by the Bush Administration last fall. Homeowners could be rewarded for installing energy-efficient windows, doors, roofing and insulation as well as furnaces, air conditioners and heat pumps. But remodelers found that the terms of the 25C credit — equal to only 10 percent of the cost of each product and with a lifetime cap of $500 — weren’t strong enough to push enough homeowners off the fence and into action.

Now, the credit rate and lifetime cap have been tripled – to 30 percent and $1,500, respectively – the list of eligible improvements expanded, and the deadline for applying has been extended through the end of 2010. Congressional estimates indicate that the new rules for the tax incentive will increase aggregate remodeling activity by more than $6 billion.

“The new tax credit also aligns with industry research indicating that even the most aggressive efficiency goals for new homes won’t make a dent in overall energy consumption. Instead, remodeling and retrofitting the nation’s older homes is by far the more efficient solution,” said NAHB Remodelers Chairman Greg Miedema, CGR, CGB, CAPS, a remodeler from Tucson (AZ).

“These new tax credits are another way that home building industry can combat the potential effects of global climate change by encouraging home owners to make energy-efficient improvements to their homes,” said Miedema.

A 2008 California study revealed that 70 percent of the greenhouse gas emissions related to single-family envelope energy consumption can be attributed to homes built before 1983.

The bottom line: Retrofitting existing homes with energy-efficient features is four to eight times more carbon, and cost-efficient than adding further energy-efficiency requirements to new housing, the study showed.

Details on qualifying improvements are available at the IRS Web site at http://www.irs.gov. It is expected that homeowners will need to complete Form 5695 (Residential Energy Credits) and submit as part of their 2009 income tax returns to claim the credit. Further, homeowners should retain for their own records information that includes:

Name and address of the manufacturer

Identification of the component

Make, model or other appropriate identifiers

Statement that the component meets the 25C standards

Climate zones for which the criteria are satisfied

Additional information for storm windows, if applicable

A declaration that the certification statement is true.

Due to the efforts of nonprofits like NAHB, the National Association of REALTORS and its affiliate organizations like the CCIM Institute, more and more businesses and individuals alike understand that ‘green’ is good for our economy, for our health and for the sustainability of our nation’s communities.

Written by Peter L. Mosca as found in Craig Lilly’s newsletter at http://www.lillyteam.com

Finding out which repairs will help you sell your home helps you create a good, solid fix-it list to work on. A study produced by HomeGain aimed to take the guess-work out of where to spend your repair dollars. According to the study, the top four areas to focus on are: clean and de-clutter, lighten and brighten, stage the home for sale, and landscape the front/back yards.

The Return on Investment (ROI) depends on the repair and, in some cases, which part of the country you live in. “In some areas of the country things cost more and some people don’t care about some things as much as others do in other areas,” says Jessica Gopalakrishnan, Sr. Marketing Manager for HomeGain.

Here’s how HomeGain breaks down the ROI for the top four repairs. Cleaning and decluttering can create a 578 percent ROI (the highest return was 837 percent in the West). The ROI for staging a home was 340 percent (this category ranked second in the South and Mid-West). Landscaping the front and back yards, brought in a 415 percent ROI. According to the survey, each of these repairs range in cost from a few to several hundred dollars but can return thousands in profit.

Rounding out the study’s top-ten list of repairs are: Repair electrical or plumbing problems, replace or shampoo carpeting, paint interior walls, paint exterior walls, repair damaged flooring, update kitchen and bathrooms. Gopalakrishnan says routine maintenance can help too.

“Not washing the windows is something so simple but a big mistake that homesellers make,” says Gopalakrishnan. Another top mistake is covering up or neglecting care of the floors. “If they leave a dirty carpet on the floor that would be a mistake,” says Gopalakrishnan. She adds that a key strategy for staging a home is to, “lift up the carpets and show off those nice floors — give them a quick shine and clean them up first.”

When you make the above repairs costing approximately $5,000 – $8,000, HomeGain, says that prices, for example, on a three bedroom, two bathroom home can result in price increases: in the West, as high as $22,762; in the East, as high as $23,532; in the South, $21,470; in the Mid-West, $20,279.

“With homes sitting on the market longer, homeowners should do everything they can to sell it quickly and at a price they expect,” says, Louis Cammarosano, General Manager at HomeGain.

The survey collected information from 2,000 real estate agents across the U.S.

The online resource also has a “What If” tool that allows users to hypothetically add a room, bathroom, or even square footage to a home to calculate value estimates on residential properties.

Written by Phoebe Chongchua as found in Craig Lilly’s newsletter at http://www.lillyteam.com

Icestone [is] a durable surface made 100% from recycled glass and concrete. I first heard of this product about 2 years ago and initially thought it would make very cool looking countertops. A few weeks ago, I attended a product knowledge seminar on Icestone and now, the “green” side of it is growing on me. So I thought I would take time today to share a little more about Icestone and point some of the key factors that define it as a green product and company.

Icestone (http://www.icestone.biz) is a man-made product that is suitable for both, residential and commercial applications. Most people will use it for countertops and backsplashes but it can also be installed as flooring. Think about 1950’s terrazzo floors in the government buildings. Icestone offers a similar look but with more vibrant colors and a variety of shades.

How are the product and the company green?
-Made in USA – the factory is in Brooklyn, NY.
-Reuses glass bottles – beer, wine, sparkling water bottles … out of the landfill and into the countertop. The color of the recycled glass gives the shade to the slab.
-VOC free – no petroleum content and water based sealers. So helping in the wellness your family.
-Day-lit factory – saving energy where it matters the most.
-Grey water recycling – conserving and reusing resources to make a true impact on the environment.

What certifications does Icestone hold?
B corporation – “a new type of corporation which uses the power of business to solve social and environmental problems. B Corporations are unlike traditional responsible businesses because they: meet comprehensive and transparent social and environmental performance standards.”

Cradle-to-Cradle Gold – recently awarded Gold, this certification “provides a company with a means to tangibly, credibly measure achievement in environmentally-intelligent design and helps customers purchase and specify products that are pursuing a broader definition of quality.”

NSF certified – certifies that Icestone is suitable in a food service area like a kitchen.

These are just a few points that make Icestone highly desirable and worth considering when selecting your countertops or looking for something different for flooring. New shades are coming out. Who knows, it may be the one you’ve always wanted.

So keep on recycling those glass bottles. They may one day reappear… in your kitchen countertop!

Written by Valery Tessier-Leon for Case Design/Remodel. 

For more information on Case Design, please go to http://www.casedesign.com