Outdoor Oasis for relaxation and peace of mind.

There are so many ways that you can create a garden, so. ultimately it comes down to personal preference. There are a few basic garden styles that you can follow. Make sure when you choose a style that you consider the architecture of your home. A formal garden will not necessarily be the best choice for a cottage style home. Also, consider the color of the items in your yard, the fence, any outbuildings. The color of your home and it’s trim are also important factors. There are five general garden styles.

Formal
The formal garden has a long history. French or Italianate gardens feature strong symmetry. Asian or Islamic gardens have strong geometric patterns. A formal design will have strong defined lines and edges. Paving and paths are central and will lead the eye to some kind of specimen plant or other garden element, such as a statue.

Hedges and shrubs are prevalent. They should be trimmed into symmetrical shapes such as pyramids, balls and boxes. Formal gardens are frequently monochromatic in color. Often they will be one single color, like white.

Informal/Casual
The goal of the informal garden is to soften the boundaries between the home and the garden. An informal garden will have winding paths, and mounded groups of plants. The casual garden will include more potted plants and beds with mixed flowers. Large shrubs should be used as a backdrop for plants. The casual garden should have a relaxed and inviting feeling.

Contemporary
Contemporary gardens use shapes that include circles, ovals and triangles. Geometric beds can be used, but the plantings should appear to have a bit of organized chaos. Often architectural features of a home, (I.E. oval windows), will be copied into the garden. House trim color is also copied with the flower color.

Also present are living walls covered with climbing vines, container groupings that mirror bed shapes, and newly introduced plants. The contemporary garden is also a great place for espalier’s and topiary’s. The topiary’s should be trimmed into free-form triangles and ball shapes. Of most importance is that this style remain fluid. A contemporary garden is a “blend of traditional style with modern design principles.” (Flower Gardening; Julie Bawden-Davis; 2004)

Natural
The ultimate goal for a natural garden is to replicate nature. Major features include groupings of odd numbered plants, plantings in layers and levels, and native flowering plants. A natural garden should also include plants that attract wildlife, like birds and bee’s. Keep in mind when creating a natural garden that room should be left for a compost pile or bin. A natural garden should also be free of harmful pesticides and chemical fertilizers.

Combination
The combination style of gardening is perhaps the most difficult to do successfully. This type of garden requires experience. A successful combination garden will have many aspects of different styles woven together. The best way to approach this design is either to plan it right from the start, or experiment as you go. Begin by choosing one of the classic styles that works for you. Transition this style slowly into a combination garden.

The above garden styles will add flair to your garden. By choosing a style that you enjoy you will add cohesion to your garden, inviting people in to experience it’s pleasures.

For more articles by this author, go to Helium.

Preparation
You’ll need a bit of earth in full sun, about 10 feet by 10 feet. In garden that size you can grow two tomato plants, two pepper plants, onions, cilantro, and garlic. To prepare your garden, dig the soil to a depth of 8 or 10 inches. Add a couple of bags of compost, dig it in, and rake the soil smooth. Make a path down the middle from north to south.

Planting
Garlic is planted in the fall. To plant, break the bulb into separate cloves and plant the cloves separately along the west and east sides of your patch. Harvest in late summer.

Tomato plants should be planted in early summer, well after the last predicted frost date. Buy an early and a late variety for summer-long harvest. Place the plants at the north end of your patch on either side of the path, and support them with sturdy tomato cages.

For peppers, you can choose anything from fiery habaneros to sweet and mild “Fooled You.” Pepper plants should be planted at the same time as tomatoes. Place them in front of the tomato plants so they get full sun.

Onions can be grown from seeds or from sets. Seeds should be planted very early in the spring, after the soil thaws. Sets can be planted a little later. Plant several short rows in front of the peppers.

Sow cilantro seed on finely-raked soil at the south end of the garden, in front of your onions, after the last frost date.

Care
Water deeply, making sure you soak the soil to a depth of several inches. Water again when the soil is dry down to about an inch below the soil surface. To conserve water and smother weeds, mulch with several inches of chopped leaves or straw. Keep the weeds pulled so they don’t compete with your plants. The compost you dug into the garden bed will provide plenty of nutrition for most of the season, but tomatoes and peppers will benefit if you dig a little organic fertilizer into the soil halfway through the growing season.

Salsa Time!
Once your tomatoes and peppers begin producing, you should have early onions, garlic, and cilantro ready for harvest. Here’s one recipe for turning your produce into fresh, delicious salsa:

3 cloves of garlic, minced
3 tablespoons chopped onion
3 medium or 2 large tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 peppers, finely chopped
2 tablespoons cilantro, minced
2 tablespoons lime juice
Salt and pepper to taste

Mix the ingredients in a glass or ceramic bowl. Refrigerate several hours before serving to allow the flavors to blend.

Article courtesy of Contractor Source.

Gardeners are one of the largest hobby groups in the world. Gardening can be as simple as a few containers or as complex as a few acres. Regardless of the scale, the same basic rules apply:

1. Realize that gardening is more of a process than a project. Plants take time to grow and along with the plants, you will grow patience. Accept the fact that not everything you attempt is going to look like a magazine cover. Also remember that some of the things you do may be great.

2. Learn about your gardening space. Indoors or out, locate where and when the sun shines. Pay special attention to the soil. Do a soil test to determine what type garden soil you have. Amend it or choose plants suited to it.

3. Learn about yourself. How much time and money do you want to invest? Gardening can be as simple or as elaborate as you want it to be. It’s always a good idea to start small, finding more to do is seldom a problem.

4. Learn about plants, especially the ones you like. Whatever plant you chose to grow, from turfgrass to orchids, do some homework. If for some reason the plants you like most aren’t recommended for your garden site, keep looking. You’re sure to find something you like just as well, maybe even better.

5. Water, fertilize and prune regularly as recommended on the plant tag.

6. Get some good tools. You don’t need one of everything to begin with. A spade, rake, trowel and pruners have started many exceptional gardens.

7. Learn to recognize symptoms before they become problems. Pests, diseases and environmental stressors of lawns and houseplants usually start small, giving you time to react and correct them. Knowing the problem allows you to select the right treatment.

8. Ask questions. You shouldn’t have any trouble finding experienced gardeners who are more than willing to share advice and opinions.

9. Be safe. Follow product instructions carefully, especially pesticide and fertilizer.

10. Keep a record or journal of what works and what doesn’t. Use this information when planning for next season.

11. The plant tag is a good source of information. Sunlight and water requirements, mature size and shape, planting instructions, bloom time, pruning needs and more are all right at your fingertips.

12. Gardening can be strenuous; sore muscles and blisters are often the result of a gardening session. Doing a few basic stretching exercises and investing in a good pair of gloves are worth the time and effort.

13. Perhaps most importantly, although gardening can be hard work, don’t forget to have fun.

Courtesy of Lowe’s.

LAWN: Your lawn should be well maintained. Mow often and set your mower higher: grass that is clipped too short will be more prone to drying out and weeds. Take the extra time and edge sidewalks and paths.

REMOVING PLANTS: Obviously, weeds should be removed. Overgrown plants and bushes should be pruned, and if they look too bedraggled, removed. If you have the time, some shrubs (like forsythia) can be brought back to life by cutting them back to a foot or so off the ground. They will grow back lusher and more full, but this will take time. Overgrown perennials can be dug up, divided, and used to plant new areas. If you have extra plants in areas that aren’t easily seen, move them to more obvious locations.

CHOOSING PLANTS: Landscaping plants, bushes, and trees all take time to establish themselves and grow. Of course, you can buy full-sized bushes and fifteen foot trees, but these can cost a significant amount of money, as well as needing specialized equipment to plant them. If your current landscaping is spartan or nonexistent, a wise choice is often to purchase one largish bush or small tree as a focal point, and surround it with smaller, cheaper plants. Annual plants (plants that die off each year) can provide a show of color and take less time to fill out than perennials. Annuals can also be significantly less expensive, especially if you grow them from seed. If you have a couple of months before you plan on listing your home, flower seeds like zinnias or alyssum grow quickly and provide a good show of color. Ornamental grasses can provide interest and height, and may grow faster than flowering plants or shrubs.

PLANT LOCATION: Choose a highly visible area for your planting; near the front of the house or next to a front path or stair is usually a good choice. Landscaping should match the style of the house: a small cottage will look good with a little plot of mixed wildflowers in front of the front porch, while a neo-classical or modern house may look better with a single sculpted evergreen and several smaller plants. Most smaller plants look best in odd-numbered groups: group 3 or 5 plants together instead of having one of everything. Plant smaller plants in front and larger plants in back. If your planting is not next to a house or wall, surround a taller plant with gradually shorter plants.

MULCH: Mulch can make all the difference when it comes to getting that manicured, landscaped look. Not only will a good layer of mulch keep the weeds down and retain moisture for the plants, but it can make the garden areas around your house look well cared for. If your planting areas border your lawn, use flexible edging to keep the mulch neatly in place.

HARDSCAPE: Hardscape refers to the non-living elements of your landscaping. If your property is overflowing with rocks, consider edging areas with stone, or if you have larger rocks, arrange them in a pleasing configuration and surround them with mulch. Add a ceramic bird or two for a dash of color and interest. If you live in a dry, arid climate, use Zen gardens for inspiration; arrangements of gravel, sand, and stone can be just as beautiful as plant life. Benches and bird feeders can beautify side and back lawns, especially when they are placed against a backdrop of taller plants. (A note on garden gnomes, ceramic ducks, plastic flamingos, and the like: while you may love and treasure these things, you should be aware that potential buyers may not be of a similar mindset. It is best to remove any inanimate objects that possess a face from your yard before showing your house.)

The trick to landscaping a house to sell is to get the most selling advantage for the least amount of money. Focus on the main areas: near the front entrance, along a path, and the front of the house. Choose one or two larger plants or shrubs, and surround them with smaller, cheaper plants. If you choose flowering plants, make a note of when they flower and how they look after flowering. A mass planting of tulips will look gorgeous while they are in bloom, and terrible later in the summer.

If you are completely lost as to which plants to pick or where to plant them, consult a gardener friend or ask advice from your local nursery. (Gardner friends are also sometimes a useful source of extra plants.) When in doubt, you should be pretty safe planting three different heights of plants next to a foundation wall, as long as you make sure they get the required amount of sunlight.

For more articles by this author, please go to Helium.com

There are a few basic tools that every gardener should have. Garden tools can be broken down into four main categories: digging, weeding, raking, and pruning.

Digging Tools

A trowel is used for planting, transplanting and dividing small plants. Trowels usually have a short handle and come in regular and narrow sizes. Some trowels will even have inches marked along the blade to help gauge how deep to plant your plants. A trowel is a must have item for gardeners.

A spade is a lot like a shovel. A spade has straight sides and a rectangular shaped head with a sharp, flat edge. A spade is used when you need sharp, clean cuts. It is ideal for lifting sod, edging beds or working in closely planted areas. A spade is more versatile than a shovel and should be the item bought if you cannot afford to buy both.

A shovel is used for digging and lifting jobs. Shovels come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The most useful of these for gardening is probably a long handled, round-point shovel.

A spading fork is indispensable in gardening. A spading fork has a short handle and four flat tines. It is useful for turning over already loosened soil and also for breaking up heavy soil when preparing to plant.

Weeding Tools

A hoe is one of the oldest and most effective tools made for the garden. It is definitely another of those must have tools for a gardener. A hoe will scrape out weed seedlings and hack out shallow rooted weedy plants.

A hand fork has a short handle with three or four curved tines. A hand fork is a necessity for any garden. It can be used to eliminate weeds. It can also be used to pull rocks, leaves and other debris away from your plants.

An asparagus weeder is handy for getting rid of weeds from the root. An asparagus weeder has a long shaft with a V-shaped notched blade at the bottom. This blade is inserted below the root levered down to help pop out the weed.

A garden claw has sharp tines set in a circular pattern. You insert the claw part into the soil around the weeds and twist the handle. This loosens the soil and allows you to pull the weed free. A garden claw can also be useful for hand-tilling your soil.

Raking Tools

A bow rake is a one-pieced steel, metal-toothed rake. It is useful for smoothing soil and spreading fertilizer or compost. You should never use a bow rake to rake your lawn because it can tear your grass.

A lawn rake is a fan or broom shaped rake. These can be made with metal, plastic or bamboo tines. A lawn rake is useful for so many jobs including collecting leaves, grass clippings, twigs, light garden debris and many other garden jobs.

Pruning Tools

Hand pruners come in two styles: bypass and anvil. Bypass pruners have two curved blades like scissors. Anvil pruners have only one cutting blade that cuts against a straight, flattened edge. Hand pruners are used for innumerable tasks such as snipping blooms, harvesting plants, trimming small twigs and cutting back plants. Hand pruners should definitely be a part of your gardening tool set.

Hedge Shears are used primarily for pruning and shaping shrubs and hedges. They have long handles that can make it easier to reach those hard to reach places. Hedge shears resemble a large pair of scissors. Hedge shears can also be used to cut tall grasses and weeds.

Long-handled loppers are like hand pruners, but with much longer handles. Long-handled loppers also come in bypass and anvil styles. These are used to cut larger size branches that hand pruners cannot cut through.

Pruning saws come in handy for things that even long handled loppers cannot cut through. Pruning saws have a saw blade that is used to saw, rather than cut, through wood. Most pruning saws are folded, allowing you to fold the blade into the handle for safe storage.

The tools above can be found in many different shapes and sizes, along with a variety of quality. A good quality tool will say that the metal is tempered, heat treated or forged. Stainless steel tools are also very good, though they tend to be more expensive. Make sure that the metal part of the tool is attached securely to the handle.

Another way to ensure that your tools will last a long time is to take proper care of them. Make sure to pick up all of your tools when you are done a job and clean them off. Wipe all of the metal parts with an oiled cloth to keep them from rusting. Have your tool blades sharpened at the beginning of every season. And finally, store them in a dry place. Taking proper care of your tools will extend their life for years to come.