Natural Disaster

“Homeowners who found themselves in the sights of Hurricane Irene may soon be targeted by scammers looking to profit from their pain.

As attention turns to repair and rebuilding, residents in affected areas should be aware that disasters often attract unscrupulous contractors who will prey on those trying to put their lives back together.

The National Consumer Law Center reported in late 2008 that complaints about contractor fraud to the Louisiana Attorney General’s office leaped to 6,000 in the two years after Hurricane Katrina, from about 150 a year prior to the storm. The counterpart in Mississippi received more than 800 reports of fraud.

One common scheme is for scam artists to ask for an up-front payment and never show up to do the work. A survey by Louisiana State University found that was the case for 61 percent of respondents who had been victims of contractor fraud in the three years after Katrina.

Another big concern is contractors who use poor-quality materials and cut corners, pocketing the price difference from what it would cost to make proper repairs.

And the scams don’t come cheap: 15 percent of respondents to the LSU survey said they lost between $10,000 and $30,000.

The most common problems come when homeowners hire unlicensed contractors who hang signs advertising low-cost work or head to an affected area after a disaster.

“We call them storm chasers,” said Cheryl Reed, director of communications for the consumer website Angie’s List. “Those are people trying to make a buck off of somebody else’s misfortune.”

One common tactic is for contractors to go door-to-door and offer to help. “It’s easy when people are upset and they want to get this started,” said Loretta Worters, vice president of the Insurance Information Institute. “You’re so distraught that you don’t really think about the implications.”

Although homeowners may feel pressured to find someone to make the essential repairs, a sense of urgency can make them more vulnerable. Slowing down and taking the time to check a contractor’s credentials and references can save time and money in the long run.

Here are some tips to help ensure you hire a contractor who will do the job properly:

1. Be suspicious of any contractor who tries to rush you to make a decision, especially on non-emergency or temporary repairs.

2. Send away quickly any contractor who claims to be backed by the government. The Federal Emergency Management Agency does not endorse individual contractors or loan companies.

3. Ask to see the primary contractor’s driver’s license and write down the number and the license plate number of his or her vehicle. Also ask to see the contractor’s proof of liability and worker compensation insurance. Make sure anyone you hire is licensed and bonded, or you could be at additional risk for liability, should the contractor have an accident on the job.

4. Never let a contractor discourage you from contacting your insurance company.

5. Beware of contractors who encourage you to spend a large sum on temporary repairs. Payments for such repairs are covered as part of the total insurance settlement. If you run up a big expense for temporary fixes, you may not have enough money for the necessary permanent repairs. Discuss what’s needed with your insurance agent or claims adjuster. And remember to keep receipts.

6. Ask friends and neighbors for recommendations or get a list of reputable contractors from your insurance agent or company representative. Check out candidates on online forums, and with the Better Business Bureau, your local home builders association, consumer affairs department and your state attorney general’s office before signing a contract. Never give anyone a deposit until after you have researched their background.

7. Don’t pay for work up front. Most contractors will require a down payment, but that should just be a portion of the total bill. And don’t pay anything until you have a written contract. Never sign a contract with blank spaces, which a crooked contractor can alter after you’ve signed the document.

8. Beware of price gouging. While prices often rise as demand increases, you should report exorbitant hikes to local authorities. Get all terms in writing; that includes prices for labor and materials, a precise description of the work to be done, time schedules, guarantees, payment schedules and estimated start and finish dates.

9. Don’t pay with cash and don’t sign over an insurance settlement check to the contractor. Using checks or credit cards creates a record of your payments, which will be helpful if there’s a dispute.

10. Never pay a contractor in full or sign a completion certificate until the work is finished and you are sure the work satisfies current building codes.

11. Report suspected fraud to local authorities. Also, report anyone who encourages you to fabricate an insurance claim to your insurance company, the local police, the state insurance department or the National Insurance Crime Bureau hotline at 1-800-TEL-NICB”

The layout of a Floating Floor.

A floating floor is a floor that is laid over an existing sub-floor and is neatly clipped together, though at no point attached to the floor beneath it.  These are cleverly engineered floors made of a variety of materials bonded together, and offering a home owner a quick solution to brightening up their home.

Floating floors have the ability to stay in place because of gravity, although in the early days, the clips that held these together caused creaking, which has been overcome with modern models and research, giving the home owner the possibility to construct the floor without any expertise, just by following basic guidelines of placing it onto an even floor and leaving an air gap around the skirting area so that the floor can expand and contract without causing the floor to lift in places.

THE RANGE

The range of floating floors available on the market means that consumers have the choice of lush wooden finishings ranging through from tropical woods to the more traditional woods of Maple, Oak and Cherry without the expense of having to have major works done within the home by qualified carpenters. For a more unique look, the ranges available from specialists that stock laminate flooring include such finishes as natural Bamboo, Teak and Walnut.

FIXINGS

The floating floor has built in fixings which come in the form of tongues and grooves, although the tongues are at a different angle from traditional tongues, and click into their slot easily gripping the corresponding plank with a more secure linking than is possible with a fixed wooden flooring.

UNDERLAY

Floating floors can be purchased with an underlay already on them although this is rare. Normally a membrane is laid between the sub-floor and the floating floor, and this serves two purposes, one to be sound insulating and one to add extra insulation to floors and overcome the condensation that can be caused when putting a cold surface against a warm one.

ADVANTAGES

The advantages of floating flooring is that it is almost instant and can be performed with little skill. The color range gives great flexibility of choice and the surface is easily washable with a damp mop or cloth.

DISADVANTAGES

The disadvantages of this type of flooring is that they are less hard-wearing than traditional wooden floors. In areas where the home is susceptible to water ingress such as in bathroom and mud room environments, the floor should be glued within the tongue and groove to prevent water passing through the layers of laminate and swelling the product causing breakdown of the floor solidity.

It should also receive a coating to protect it. If buying cheap quality laminate flooring, the flooring can be damaged easily, and is not repairable like standard wood, because of the surface being photo finish, rather than wood. If buying cheaply, and using without glue, it’s a good idea to buy extra because planks can be re-laid, replacing damaged planks, at the next major decoration.

GRADES

One of the important factors to take into consideration with laminate flooring is quality. Many stores offer seconds or defective flooring at discounted prices, and while this may suit the householder’s needs, the wear factor does come into play and the consumer would need to buy extra packs to allow for defects in the planking.

The high quality grades of floating floors are used successfully in high traffic commercial premises and will withstand heavy use, and are certainly worthy of consideration when choosing the type for your home.

FINISH

Different quality finishes make the world of difference to floating floors, and while many contain very little wood and are made from compressed material with a back-boarding, finished with a photo finish wood effect, what should be taken into account when buying is the guarantee given by manufacturers, since this says a lot more about quality and expected lifetime of the flooring.

Floating floors are becoming more and more popular as an option in the modern home, and new finishes are coming out all the time, now giving stone and ceramic effects as well as the wooden ones mentioned above. As a concept it is successful and ever evolving, and can make your home look clean and inviting, make it easier to keep clean, and be enhanced with the beauty of your furnishings or rugs for a complete and original designer look.

For more articles by this author, go to Helium.

What winter upgrades do you need for your home?

This is no time to neglect your home, regardless of where you live. At this time of year, many homeowners – especially in colder regions – neglect the condition of their homes in anticipation of warmer weather. Even in warmer regions – where weather can be unpredictable – this is the time of year when home improvements take the back burner. Let’s take a look at some areas of your home that can benefit from your attention right now.

Doors/Windows. Perhaps you did all the right things before the colder weather set in…you checked for drafts, replaced weather stripping…maybe even replaced some of your doors and windows. Now is the time to determine if the improvements you made were effective. If you are still experiencing some drafty conditions, it’s time to call your local contractor in to perform an inspection and schedule the required work to fix the condition as soon as weather permits.

Roofing/Gutters. Again, you may have performed the necessary inspections/improvements to your roofing prior to the onset of winter, but are now finding that it’s not enough. Now is the time to inspect your roofing and gutters, or better still, call a professional to discuss any ice dams or icicles that may cause serious damage to your roof. In warmer climates, this is the time of year to address any gutters that may be sagging as a result of too much rain and debris.

Landscaping. Regardless of where you may live, there is no better time than now to consider your outdoor landscaping. Even if it’s currently covered in snow, by calling a landscape professional now, you’ll avoid being wait-listed when everyone else in your neighborhood decides to act. The process for designing and constructing your perfect paradise can – and should – take months, so even in warmer climates, why not start planning now, before everyone else does?

Remodeling. For many homeowners, holidays reveal that they simply don’t have enough room in their current home or that their existing space could use some remodeling. With proper planning by a remodeling professional, you’ll be ready the next time guests emerge on your home for any reason.

Siding/Fencing/Decks. This time of year also has a way of revealing imperfections or problems with your siding/fencing and/or deck. It may be time to upgrade to a newer vinyl or other available material for maximum durability and beauty.

After the holidays are over is the perfect time to start planning those home improvement projects you’ve been putting off for far too long. Get a jump on your neighbors who will all be envious of how great your home looks when spring and summer roll around. You’ll leave them all scratching their heads saying “why didn’t I think of that?”

“Fear-of-building-permit” affliction is mostly not justified. A building permit is actually worthwhile protection for the owner. However, to ensure full benefits and avoid potential delays, homeowners should obtain basic knowledge about the permit process before embarking on a building project, whether a new house or a kitchen remodel.

PURPOSE OF BUILDING PERMIT
When crossing a bridge, especially a long, high span over water, we clearly understand the need for safe construction. Those who have been inside buildings during hurricanes or earthquakes also realize (very clearly) the critical importance of proper construction.
During more usual daily events, we tend to forget about safety of building construction. In general, such lack of concern is expected and necessary so we can focus on solving more immediate problems. However, ensuring building safety remains an essential function that should not be neglected.

A building permit is one tool that can be useful in the effort to provide safe buildings.

Constructing a new building or making changes (alterations) to elements of an existing building must be done properly to ensure safety of occupants, both current and future. Though difficult for current owners and occupants of buildings to admit, they will almost certainly not outlive the building unless it has already started to collapse. The building essentially has a “life” of its own and will serve new owners. The permit process, when applied correctly, helps to ensure that building safety is maintained throughout the life of the building.

BUILDING PERMIT PROCESS: GENERAL
In the US, each municipality (city, township, borough) or county generally has a building department that is responsible for managing the building permit process.

Key code officials, such as construction official, are typically local government (municipal, county) employees. For small communities, code officials may be state employees. Building inspectors are often government employees also. However, inspection functions may be subcontracted out to private-sector firms.

The property owner is always responsible for the permit, even if the builder or contractor (as owner’s agent) handles the paperwork.
Basic information must be included on the permit application, including names of owner and contractor, general description of proposed work and estimated cost. Permit fees, typically based on type of construction and estimated cost, are supposed to cover the cost of plan review and inspections by code officials and inspectors.

Regulations set time limits for code officials to review and release the permit application, as long as there are no outstanding design issues (see Plan Review). Many building departments turn permits around in several days. However, the owner or contractor should call the code office if there is some delay without explanation.

The permit (when issued) typically is valid for a specific time limit, such as one or two years. If construction has not started before the limit expires, a new permit may be required. Permits may be amended to include additional construction. Revised design plans may be required for such amendment.

ONLINE INFORMATION
Information about building permit requirements is available online. Many communities provide building permit application forms. The following samples from around the US illustrate some of the better information and capabilities provided:

Baltimore, Maryland
Austin, Texas
Freehold Township, New Jersey
Oakland, California
State of Washington
US Census Bureau

RESPONSIBILITY FOR DESIGN
Building design is a separate function from construction. The general public often does not understand that some person or persons other than the builder are responsible for design.

For any building that serves the public, state laws require that a licensed architect or engineer must design the building. The design professional (architect or engineer) prepares design documents (plans & specifications) to show construction requirements for the completed building. Plans and specifications must satisfy requirements of the applicable building codes. Design documents, submitted along with the building permit application, become the key documents governing construction.

For single-family houses, plans may be prepared by the owner or builder, depending on state regulations. Quality of such plans is often severely deficient.

PLAN REVIEW
During the permit process, plans and specifications are reviewed by various code officials responsible for specific aspects or “systems” such as framing and foundations, mechanical, electrical and plumbing. However, intent of “plan review” is only to ensure that; (1) Plans have been prepared by qualified person or persons, and (2) In general, plans and specifications conform to basic requirements of the building code.

The public has the very common misconception that code officials “approve” design plans. In fact, code officials are almost universally not licensed architects or engineers and are therefore not qualified to completely check or approve design plans.

When the building code includes prescriptive provisions, code officials may use such provisions to review plan details. However, code officials more typically seek to ensure that overall quality of plans appears to be adequate. In practice, code officials tend to focus on the most obvious “life safety” issues, such as fire protection.

Quality of plan review varies greatly. Code officials may be overloaded such that they have time to perform only cursory review.
Whether code officials perform detailed plan review or not, the responsible design professionals remain completely responsible for quality of plans and specifications. Inadequate design plans can cause major problems during construction.

BUILDING INSPECTION
Building inspectors use plans and specifications to inspect construction work. However, similar to plan review, quality of inspection varies greatly.

The public has the common misconception that municipal building inspectors “certify” every element of construction. In fact, building inspectors only perform limited inspections to determine that, in general, construction conforms with requirements of design plans.
Whether building inspectors perform detailed inspections or not, the builder / contractor remains completely responsible for quality of construction.

When design plans do not include necessary information, major problems can be expected. The inspector should insist that the builder obtain revised plans from the responsible design professional. However, in practice, inspectors generally “overlook” such deficient design and allow the builder to make design decisions to “fill in” the missing information. Major legal claims have resulted from this all-too-often practice.

ENDGAME: CERTIFICATE OF OCCUPANCY
After final inspections are performed, the responsible code official issues a “certificate of occupancy” which is required before anyone can occupy the building.

Similar to other misconceptions about the role of code officials and inspectors, the public has the general misconception that issuance of a certification of occupancy means that code officials “approve” of the entire design and construction. Builders often use this misconception to divert attention from themselves when building defects are discovered.

Essentially, the certification of occupancy means only that code officials have completed their responsibilities in accordance with state regulations.

AFTER-THE-FACT PERMIT
Many owners and contractors seek to avoid the permit process entirely. Saving cost of the permit fee is given as one reason. However, avoiding the need for design plans and the perceived “hassle” of inspections are usually much more important as reasons for skirting the building permit.

Initial “savings” all-too-often end up costing owners much more in repair costs to fix defective construction. Lack of a building permit is often revealed during a real estate transaction. Owners can then be faced with significant cost to show what was built. In some cases, code officials may require partial or complete removal of interior finish materials to allow for inspection. Threat of fines (some quite high) may be used by code officials if the owner attempts to resist an order for an after-the-fact permit application.
Sometimes, current owners were not aware that previous owners had performed construction without a permit. Current owners may then find themselves “on-the-hook” for obtaining an after-the-fact permit when they try to sell the house.

For more articles by this author, go to Helium.

John F Mann, PE
Structural Support
1212 Main Street
Belmar NJ 07719
732-556-6080
www.structural101.com

The back wall needs to be relatively square at the corner. This is more true if you intend to put cabinets around the corner. A corner that is not square can create real problems for the do-it-yourself project. As long is it is not off more than about an inch over a distance of about 10 feet, you will probably be able to hide it with trim, spacers, and caulk. For amounts more than that, you may want to call in a professional for advice.

Any appliances that will be installed along with the cabinets need to be taken into consideration while planning the project. Will the stove be a full size, drop-in, or range top? This will change your requirements. For a regular stove, just stop the cabinets about 1/4 to 1/2 inch on either side. With a drop-in, the cabinets need to come right up to the edge so that the top of the stove can meet the counter. For a range top, the cabinets will run right on through the area. However, you will need to plan for the electric in all three cases.

The placement of a sink will be critical. It will have to be plumbed. If a dishwasher is being installed, the slot to the left or right of the sink is the idea place for it. This will make it easy to run the supply and drain lines. Do not forget that the counter has to be cut for the sink.

Normally, the cabinets will sit on the floor. Measure the height of the cabinets and mark a line along the wall. This will give you a guide for keeping the tops of the cabinets level. Once all of the cabinets are placed and fit properly, screw them to the wall and to each other. Be careful not to leave any screw points sticking out where they can cut a hand or arm reaching into the cabinet.

When the cabinets are solidly attached, bring in the counter top. Put it in place. Do whatever adjustments are necessary to make the corner joint fit right. This is where spacers come in. When you have the counter top placed, screw it down from underneath. Use silicone or caulk along the back. With a little care, you will be able to hide any extra gaps with this caulk.

After the cabinets are installed, attach any hardware like door handles that you need. Install the sink and stove. Check for leaks and that the stove works properly, and the job is complete.

For more articles by this author, go to Helium.

As a licensed professional engineer, I am called in to evaluate cracked foundation walls frequently. Unfortunately, repairs for defective foundation walls can easily cost tens of thousands of dollars. However, much money can also be wasted based on incorrect evaluation by unqualified persons.

Water in the soil around a basement is often one of the factors responsible for cracked foundation walls. Water in the soil may also be the source of water leaking into a basement. However, cracks in foundation walls are generally not the primary cause of water leaks. There are also other potential causes of water infiltration into a basement. Therefore, although increased pressure from water (against foundation walls) is relative to this discussion, the topics of water infiltration (leaks) into a basement and waterproofing should be discussed separately.

Much information provided online about this topic (cracked foundation walls) is grossly misleading or totally incorrect. Many descriptions tend to be vague, confusing or off-topic. Examples of incorrect online information are provided at the end of this discussion.

DISCOVERY OF FOUNDATION CRACKS
Cracks in foundation walls typically occur within several years after a house is built, although there are exceptions (such as tree roots). Owners often do not notice cracks until many years after initial formation. This is especially the case in dark basements. The most dangerous situation is when cracks occur in foundation walls when the basement is finished. Although catastrophic failures are relatively rare, cracked-wall conditions can progress over time to total foundation wall failure without anyone seeing the progression.

Cracks in foundation walls often become a major issue when discovered by a home inspector during a pre-purchase inspection. Although the owner usually contends a cracked wall has been that way “forever”, a buyer tends to become concerned when confronted with a warning in the inspection report. Homeowners selling a house often attempt to cover-up foundation cracks by painting the wall or filling cracks with flexible caulking. A qualified, experienced home inspector should highlight any such attempt in the home inspection report.

BASIC TYPES AND CAUSES OF CRACKS
Cracks are generally considered vertical, horizontal or “diagonal” (sloped), even though most cracked-wall conditions include all three categories.

Narrow vertical cracks are most often caused by minor settlement or normal shrinkage. Such cracks are not structural defects. Wide vertical cracks (such that the thickness of a 25-cent quarter coin can be inserted) may be caused by significant settlement problems that require detailed engineering inspection and evaluation. In concrete walls, you will almost always find numerous, very narrow (“hairline”) vertical cracks. These cracks are caused by normal shrinkage of concrete and are not a structural defect. Foundation walls built with concrete block (often, and incorrectly, described as “cinder” block) are much more likely to be cracked than solid concrete walls, especially if the block wall is constructed of 8-inch block.

Horizontal cracks are much more of a concern than vertical cracks, especially in block foundation walls. Foundation walls must of course support the vertical weight of a building. Foundation walls around a full basement must also resist inward (lateral) pressure from soil against the wall. If soil (backfill) becomes saturated with water, inward pressure can easily overload a block wall, resulting in cracks. Excessive inward lateral pressure against a block foundation wall all too often causes horizontal cracks in mortar joints. Telltale sign of excessive lateral soil pressure is a horizontal crack, about mid-height of the wall. Towards the ends of a straight foundation wall segment (near corners), horizontal cracks transition into “step” cracks, which are short vertical and horizontal cracks.

The building code includes standard limits for height of “unbalanced” backfill soil against a concrete block or plain concrete foundation wall. For an 8-inch hollow concrete block wall, height of backfill (above basement floor slab) is limited to 4 feet. Block foundation walls often remain cracked for many years without any obvious additional cracking or inward movement (bulging). However, once a horizontal crack occurs, the structural integrity of the wall is greatly reduced. If soil backfill becomes saturated during periods of heavy rainfall, cracks can increase or, in the worst case, the entire foundation wall can collapse into the basement.

Roots from large or even moderate size trees near a foundation wall can easily cause major problems with block foundation walls. Roots tend to grow towards foundation walls because water accumulates along the wall.

BASIC REPAIR METHODS – HORIZONTAL CRACKS
Cracked foundation walls can be permanently repaired, without complete replacement, as long as inward movement is not excessive, even though evaluation of excessive movement is somewhat subjective. The key issue is whether the wall can continue to provide vertical support for the house without risk of severe damage in the even vertical loads are increased. Inward movement is typically measured relative to base of wall, using four-foot carpenter level or plumb string-line. Maximum inward movement (deflection) usually occurs at the horizontal crack and near mid-height of the wall.

If inward movement of a cracked foundation wall exceeds 1-1/2 inches, or if a hinge has occurred at the horizontal crack, consideration must be given to complete replacement of the wall. Cost for replacement is typically much greater than cost of bracing. Therefore, having repair work performed before inward movement increases is essential to minimizing repair costs. Traditional repair methods involve bracing the foundation wall with steel post-braces or reinforced block piers. Steel post-braces may be less expensive than piers, which must be placed on a concrete foundation (footing). However, piers often provide a better finished appearance.

Steel post braces must be securely connected at base and top, which is all too often neglected if braces are not designed by a qualified engineer. Steel reinforcing bars have successfully been installed (grouted) into block walls to provide adequate strength to resist soil pressure. However, this method is highly dependent on quality of workmanship. Inspection is effectively impossible once bars are in the wall. Installation of bars also requires extensive removal of inside face of block wall, which can cause damage to unseen parts of the block.

In recent years, more exotic repair methods have been developed, such as tiebacks and carbon-fiber strips. Although these methods have been used successfully, there have also been failures, as there are with any relatively new technology. Careful application of newer methods is therefore warranted.

MISLEADING AND INCORRECT ONLINE INFORMATION
Examples of errors with online information, discussed below, demonstrate why it is important to obtain information about foundation wall problems from qualified professional engineers.

INSPECTAPEDIA
Currently (10-18-09) the top link obtained from a Google search of “cracked foundation wall” is an advertisement for inspection services on the “InspectAPedia” web site.

http://www.inspect-ny.com/structure/FoundationCracks.htm
Excerpts from a “book” (that apparently is not available other than online) provide some detailed information about evaluating cracked foundation walls. At end of the web page, the apparent author (Daniel Friedman) includes a long list of persons without any clear description as to the intent. The apparent intent is that these persons are contributors or perhaps fact-checkers.
Statement of qualifications notes that Mr. Friedman is an “Educator, author, Building failures researcher” and a “Consultant specializing in construction & environmental testing & inspection.”

Although much information presented is valid and useful, some claims are confusing and misleading, as noted with the following two examples:
(1) Claim that the location (within height of wall) of horizontal cracks explains the reason for the cracks are overblown. This claim is simply not reasonable considering the wide variety of factors that can result in horizontal cracks, including workmanship, materials, and various sources of loads over long periods of time. One major source of cracks (tree roots) is completely ignored.

(2) A diagram included with “Repair Methods for Bulged Foundation Walls” is grossly incorrect. Base of the vertical steel channel is shown above the floor slab, without any connection. This is a major mistake. Base of any such vertical brace must have secure connection to the floor slab to resist horizontal force, which is greatest at base of the brace.

ASK THE BUILDER
An example of misleading and incorrect information that you might trip over online (as of 10-18-09) is the following from the “Ask The Builder” web site:

Crack Appearance: Horizontal Crack in a foundation wall. Commonly seen in concrete block walls. Crack is usually 4 to 5 feet off the floor.

Possible Cause: Poorly designed foundation wall. Wall is actually a retaining wall trying to hold back dirt from falling into basement. Can be fixed with beams or helical piers.

Description of the crack is not complete since horizontal cracks in block walls always occur in one or more horizontal mortar joints. Comment about “usually 4 or 5 feet off the floor” is not correct. Most horizontal cracks occur at or below mid-height of a block foundation wall, where the largest flexural tension stress occurs. The vast majority of residential block foundation walls are less than 8 feet high, such that height of horizontal cracks is generally less than 4 feet above basement floor slab.

Horizontal cracks can be caused by defective construction as well as defective design. While the “retaining wall” comment is correct and useful for understanding, this is true of any foundation wall, not just a wall with a horizontal crack. Most important however is that the suggested repair methods (“beams or helical piers”) are grossly inadequate and incorrect. A beam is generally a horizontal element. A foundation wall with horizontal cracks must be braced with vertical elements, against the wall. “Helical piers” (a type of steel pile) are used only to underpin a foundation wall when settlement (downward movement) is the problem. Helical piers (also known as “auger piles”) are not useful in any way to repair a foundation wall that has been cracked due to inward soil pressure.

For more articles by this author, please go to Helium.com

John F Mann, PE
Structural Support
1212 Main Street, Suite 2
Belmar NJ 07719
732-556-6080
jmann77@optonline.net

According to the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB), the organization’s Chairman, Greg Miedema, said in a recent media statement that, “With more calls from homeowners and more projects under way, remodelers are seeing better activity in their businesses.”

NAHB reports that indicators for current remodeling market conditions have improved in all regions across the country. “A significant portion of the market improvement came from the measure for major additions and alterations (jobs worth $25,000 or more with a leap to 38.2 (from 32.7),” according to NAHB. The association’s Remodeling Market Index (RMI) measures ranges from zero (very poor conditions) to 100 (excellent conditions) as rated by the remodelers surveyed.

NAHB says several factors could be contributing to better remodeling conditions. “Remodeling does uptick when there are more new homes being built and sold or existing homes being sold because people tend to remodel when they’re moving or when they’re selling. The other thing that we could be seeing is an increase in consumer sentiment in that people have been reluctant to spend but now are feeling a little bit more confident and more willing to spend. These are things that some of our researchers think might be part of the influencers right now,” says Kelly Mack, Communications Manager for NAHB Remodelers.

Remodeling is, however, a big step for many homeowners. Getting the best value for your remodel shouldn’t come from guesswork; instead, knowing how to find a remodeling company with a solid reputation for delivering quality work throughout the entire remodeling process requires research.

Choosing the best remodeler for your project can often be a tedious process and if you don’t take the time to explore all your options it can result in frustration and too much money spent.

Making sure the company that is doing the remodel asks the right questions, does its homework, and offers full-service design and remodeling under one roof. This will help ensure a quality remodel that meets all your needs.

Steve Walton, Senior Design Consultant for Marrokal Design and Remodeling, in San Diego, California helps clients sort through what can be a complicated process to get the best value remodel.

“When I meet with clients, I have them describe their ideas for the remodeling project. I take a lot of notes,” says Walton. The design consultant then sets another meeting at Marrokal’s Design and Remodeling center. Prior to this meeting Walton has already done his homework and researched any likely obstacles for the remodel. Some companies take on a project and later discover remodeling barriers.

“I get your set-backs, zoning conditions, and height conditions and try to see if there are any issues. That way when we meet at our design center we can start looking at the architectural process,” says Walton.

The full-service home-design remodel company offers homeowners one-stop shopping for their remodeling needs. “I develop a written program based on what my clients’ needs and goals are for their remodel,” says Walton. He adds, “Throughout this I am digging deep and finding out what’s important to my clients. A lot of companies don’t ask these questions but this is how Marrokal Design and Remodeling starts to develop a preliminary budget for our clients.”

While not all remodelers offer full service (from design to construction), this type of company is often popular with homeowners. A full-service company keeps your remodeling project running smoothly by coordinating all of the necessary design, construction developments, and communication with trade companies through one primary source (removing the unnecessary hassle of trying to get numerous trade companies to work together).

Another approach to remodeling that sets quality remodelers apart from the rest is the use of value engineering to design the remodel. “Value engineering” means refining and sometimes redesigning aspects of the remodel to make it more cost-effective which ultimately saves money for the homeowner.

Mack adds that the basic tasks of asking for references, planning your budget, interviewing remodelers, asking about certifications that the remodeler holds, and making sure that all your questions are met will help set your mind at ease before you start the remodeling process.

If you’re considering a remodel, understanding some of the most popular remodeling trends can help you decide which projects may have the greatest appeal for comfort and sale-ability.

Mack says high on the list are creating outdoor living space and energy-efficient remodels to help off-set the cost of utility bills. The outdoor living trend has been steadily increasing says Mack. “This is a trend that we think will grow into 2015.”

Written by Phoebe Chongchua as found in Craig Lilly’s Newsletter.

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