HEATING AND COOLING
If your project involves an expansion of living space, your current HVAC system may be inadequate to efficiently handle the additional space. And, if the unit is several years old, an upgrade is probably in order. Heating systems, especially in colder climates, consume more than half the energy used in a traditional home, and are responsible for releasing a billion tons or more of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere annually. Upgrading to a more efficient HVAC system can both reduce your utility bills and harmful emissions.

Heating systems vary by region because of the available energy sources and local climatic conditions; therefore, there is no single recommendation for a “best” or “most efficient system.” I have listed some of the more common types below:

Geothermal
Gas or Oil Forced Air
Electric Resistance
Heat Pumps
Wood Fired

The key is to consult with a professional HVAC contractor and to discuss the options that fit your budget, design criteria, and energy needs. Then, choose the most efficient system possible that works in your situation.

WATER HEATING
One of the least understood yet most used appliances in a home is the water heater. Water heaters are the second largest consumer of energy in a home, following heating and cooling. The general life-span of the average water heater is about 10 years, and while many may last beyond that, their efficiency decreases with age.

One of the latest innovations in water heating is the “tankless” version. Although they have been in use for many years, their popularity has grown in recent times in conjunction with rising energy costs. The tankless models have the additional advantage of having a lifespan approximately double that of a conventional water heater. Tankless water heaters do cost more to install than conventional models, but the long-term savings significantly surpasses the initial costs. Consult with your plumber to determine if a tankless heater will work for you.

If, however, your choice is a conventional water heater, you can still reap savings. The newer models are significantly more efficient than their older counterparts. You can also increase the efficiency by installing an insulation blanket around the water heater; however, check the specifications of your particular model, as some newer “superinsulated” water heaters recommend not adding the blanket, and to do so voids the warranty.

Size the water heater to fit your average needs; don’t oversize. Doing so wastes significant amounts of energy. Try to locate the water heater as close as possible to the areas of highest use. It is also recommended to set the thermostat to 120 degrees which both conserves energy and reduces the risk of scalding.

OTHER APPLIANCES
Another potential energy hog is the dishwasher. Inefficient dishwashers waste both water and energy, and many older models do a poor job of cleaning. Buy one with an EnergyStar® rating. The upgrading costs will usually be recouped in less than five years.

Older refrigerators also consume dramatically more energy than newer ones, and if your renovation calls for a new refrigerator, purchase one with the EnergyStar® rating. If your old one is at least ten years old, the new refrigerator could allow you to reap 40% or more in energy savings. While it’s common to buy refrigerators larger than we need; it’s better to analyze your needs before purchasing.

Washing machines and dryers are also major energy consumers, and the new front loading washers use significantly less water and energy than older top loading models. While the initial costs is greater, the savings can be substantial. Again, if your plans call for the purchase of a new washer or dryer, make sure the one you purchase carries the EnergyStar® seal.

Reprinted by permission from TheHousingGuru.com

All dryers spin clothes around and blow hot air on them. How to select a dryer depends on your needs. The details are what drive the choice of a machine.

Energy source: Whether you choose a gas dryer or an electric one will be based largely on what kind of hookup is available at the new dryer’s location. Gas appliances usually cost slightly more initially, but tend to be more energy- efficient. A leading consumer affairs magazine estimates that a gas dryer costs 30 cents less per load to operate.

Capacity: Since manufacturers define capacity differently, one “extra large” dryer might not be the same as another.When choosing what dryer to buy, compare capacity using the cubic foot measurement. If your space is limited, stackable washer-dryer units are available.

Coordinate the capacity of your dryer with that of your washer. You’ll defeat the purpose of increased efficiency if you have a super-sized dryer but a washer that can only supply a half-capacity load (or vice-versa). The general rule is to have about twice as much capacity in the dryer than in the washer. So if you buy a 3.3 or 3.5 cu. ft. washer, you will need a 7 cu. ft. dryer. (You need more dryer space because the clothes need room to flop around.)

When in doubt, err on the side of larger when choosing a dryer. More dryer capacity will allow the clothes to dry more quickly, which saves money on your energy bill and is better for the environment. Like most large appliances today, a dryer will last for years. Plan for the future and consider possible changes in your family size when buying a dryer.

Controls: As with washers, controls on dryers have become more sophisticated, yet easier to use. Digital displays and one-touch selection can be programmed and preset to meet your drying needs. For a simpler operation, choose dial or push-button controls.

Temperature settings: Different fabrics require different drying times and temperatures. Your clothes will look newer longer, plus have fewer wrinkles, if they are dried using the correct settings. At a minimum, most machines offer “cotton” and “permanent press” settings, with “more dry” and “less dry” options. Choose a dryer with settings that meet your needs. A cool-down cycle will keep the drum spinning for a certain amount of time after the clothes are dry in order to prevent wrinkling.

Noise level: Choose a quiet machine if your dryer will be in or near a living area. Some newer models have additional insulation and reinforced frames to reduce operating noise.

Moisture sensors: While older dryers use thermostats or timers, newer models have moisture sensors that stop the cycle when the humidity in the drum falls below a certain level. This prevents over-drying and extends the life of your garments. This feature can also make ironing easier and save energy.

Drying rack: This feature allows you to dry heavier or bulkier items — such as canvas shoes — without tumbling.

Drum light: Socks and other small items can “disappear” in the back of the machine. A drum light makes it easier to find them.

Lint filter: Higher-end models have sensors that warn you when the lint filter is blocked. Whichever model you choose, make sure to vent the dryer properly and clean the lint filter regularly to avoid a risk of fire.

Information courtesy of Lowe’s.

The key to getting dishes clean is using very hot water. Some dishwashers have a device that raises the temperature of the water coming out of your water heater.

Another feature you’ll like is a built-in food disposer. It grinds up food particles and flushes them out with the waste water. So they won’t end up re-deposited on your dishes.

Check the size of the spray holes on the wash arms. The smaller the holes are, the more scrubbing power they provide your dishwasher.

Check to be certain the dishwasher offers the cycles you need for the types of dishes you have. From pots and pans to fine china and crystal there’s a cycle for just about anything.

If you wash dishes only once every two or three days, you’ll want a rinse and hold cycle to prevent build up.

Make sure the rack system will allow you to load the dishes easily. Some dishwashers feature fold-down shelving to give you greater flexibility.

A delay-start timer will start your dishwasher when the energy rates are lower.

Some dishwashers use sensor technology to detect how dirty the dishes are and then adjust the cycle accordingly. You can start the washer with a touch of a button, and this feature prevents water from being wasted.

The amount of insulation around the dishwasher tub reduces the noise, so check to see how thick the insulation is. Thicker insulation will make the dishwasher more quiet.

Information courtesy of Lowe’s.

Here’s a quick way to pinpoint the problem:
1. Turn the timer slightly to start the fill cycle, and listen closely. If you hear buzzing but very little water is entering the machine, chances are good the fill valve or screens are plugged up.

2. If you hear nothing and aren’t getting any water, the electrical part of the fill valve could be broken, or the problem could be in the timer or another electrical component. Without getting into electrical diagnostics, you can still check the fill valve by removing it and taking it to an appliance parts dealer for testing. If the valve is bad, buy a replacement. Otherwise, put it back in and call an appliance repair person.

Caution: UNPLUG APPLIANCE!

We’re repairing a belt-drive Kenmore washer. Repair procedures are slightly different for other washers. Here’s a guide to what you’ll find:
1. A large cover plate on the back of the washer indicates a belt-drive machine. The valve must be removed.

2. If instead of a large cover plate you find a small cover plate around the valve itself, you most likely have a direct-drive machine. The valve is attached to this small cover plate. Simply remove the cover plate screws to access the valve.

3. Some direct-drive Kenmore and Whirlpool washers have no cover plates. Accessing the fill valve on these machines is a bit more work. You must remove the metal shell that covers the front and sides of the machine to get at the valve.

Heed these words of wisdom before you start:
1. Always unplug the washer before working on it.

2. Close the water valves before removing the hoses. Check the condition of the hoses and replace them if they show any signs of wear. A hose that bursts while you’re out of the house will cause a major mess. Always replace the rubber washers at both ends of the hoses.

3. Flush the hoses before you reconnect them to the washer. This will prevent dislodged debris from clogging the inlet valve or screen.

Close the water valves and unscrew the hoses from the fill valve. Check the hose ends. Some hoses have screens in them that must be removed and cleaned. Remove the screens from the inside of the fill valve. Use a small screwdriver to pry them out. Scrape them with a pocketknife to remove built-up scale. Rinse the screens in water and reinstall them. Reconnect the hoses. Turn on the water and set the washer to fill. If it still fills slowly, replace the fill valve.

Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the hex head sheet metal screws that hold the valve to the washer. Lift the top of the washer by reaching through the lid and pulling the top toward you and up to disengage it from the metal clips. Then lift the top and tilt it back. Lean the top against the wall or support it with a length of chain or cord to keep it from falling too far back and straining the hinge clips.

Reach down behind the washer tub and pull out the fill valve. Change the wires from the old valve to the new valve one at a time to ensure correct placement. Use a pliers to loosen the hose clamp and slide it down the hose. Twist the hose off the old valve and onto the new one. Universal fill valves come with a small piece of tubing. To get a tight fit, you may have to slip this over the new valve before reconnecting the old hose. Clamp the hose. Install the new valve by reversing the removal procedures. Connect the water hoses, turn on the water and plug in the washer.

As posted by The Family Handyman online at Reader’s Digest.