Broken storm door handles are easy to replace if you buy the same kind, but upgrading to a top quality brass handle as we’ve done takes a little extra work. At first glance, it appeared that this handle would fit in the old holes. A closer look at the instructions revealed that the handle had to be shifted slightly away from the edge of the door. Rather than attempt to enlarge the holes and risk a sloppy fit, we moved the handle down slightly and drilled new holes. The manufacturer had anticipated this problem and provided a cover plate to conceal the old holes on the inside of the door.

You’ll need a drill with 1/8-inch and 5/16-inch bits and a Phillips screwdriver to complete this job. We purchased the replacement handle at a large home center for about $24. There are a few different styles available. You can even buy a matching deadbolt if you like the idea of locking your storm door.

Remove the old storm door handle by unscrewing the two screws that hold the two halves together. Mark the door for the new hole locations using the template provided with the new door handle. Position the template so the new holes do not land over the existing holes.

Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes through the door at the locations you marked with the template. Then enlarge these holes to 5/16 inch by drilling halfway through the door from both sides with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Assemble the door handle according to the instructions. Screw the two halves together with the machine screws provided. Start the screws by hand to make sure the threads are aligned before tightening them with a screwdriver.

Close the door and hold the strike plate in position while you mark the screw slots. Remove the plate and drill 1/16-inch pilot holes in the center of each slot mark. Use the plastic shims provided to shim the plate if necessary. Then screw it to the door frame. Adjust the strike plate until the door latches firmly, then tighten the screws.

Trim: Fill woodwork holes like the pros.

Most people are surprised to learn that professional painters use soft colored putty to fill nail holes in stained woodwork. This eliminates the nearly impossible job of staining wood filler to match the surrounding wood. Several colors are available. To get an exact match, you may have to blend two colors. You can even use two or three colors on the same piece of wood to match areas of light and dark wood grain exactly. Colored putty is available at paint stores, hardware stores and home centers for about $2 per container.

Press matching colored putty into nail holes with the tip of your finger after staining and varnishing. Then smooth it off and polish the area with a dry rag. For added durability and to help hide the filler, apply a new coat of compatible finish over the filled woodwork. Exception: Do not use water-based varnish over colored putty.

Hide scratches with a stain marker. Don’t expect this simple tip to hide deep scratches, gouges or damaged finishes from a sharp-eyed critic. But for a quick spruce-up, colored markers are just the ticket. Stain markers are available at home centers and paint stores, but plain old felt-tip markers work great too. You’ll be surprised how easily you can hide glaring scratches and dings from the casual observer.

GFCI_Outlet

Outlets: Make your old two-prong outlets safer; the easy way.

Increase the safety of your old two-prong outlets by installing a new ground fault circuit interrupter receptacle. The GFCI will protect against a deadly shock even if it’s not connected to a ground. But just because the GFCI has a hole for a third prong, don’t assume you can plug in three-prong plugs. The National Electrical Code (NEC) states that any appliance equipped with a three-prong plug is required to be grounded, and the installation shown does not provide the necessary equipment ground. Also, some computer equipment won’t work properly if it’s not grounded. The outlet will still be ungrounded, but the GFCI will “trip,” cutting off the current and protecting you from electrocution.

Before you start, make sure the outlet box is large enough to safely hold all of the wires and the new receptacle. Here’s the formula to figure the minimum box size required by the NEC: Add 1 for each hot and neutral wire entering the box, 1 for all of the wire clamps, and 2 for each receptacle. (You’d also add 1 if you had any ground wires.) Multiply this figure by 2 for 14-gauge wire and 2.25 for 12-gauge wire to get the minimum box volume in cubic inches. Our standard metal outlet box is defined by the NEC as having 14 cubic inches. Consult the code or call your electrical inspector for the volume of your metal box. Plastic boxes have the volume stamped in them.

GFCI receptacles have two sets of hot and neutral terminals, labeled “Line” and “Load.” The “Line” terminals are for incoming power. Connect the hot and neutral wires from the main panel to these “Line” terminals. The “Load” terminals are for protecting additional receptacles with the GFCI. Don’t use them unless you know where the wiring goes and whether or not you want to protect those receptacles. The “Load” terminals on our GFCI are covered with yellow tape to prevent someone from inadvertently connecting the power leads to them.

Turn off the power to the receptacle at the main electrical panel. Then carefully unscrew the outlet and pull it out of the box. Use a simple neon circuit tester to double-check that the power is off. Place the tester leads across both sets of hot and neutral terminal screws. If the tester lights up, shut off other circuits at the main panel until you find the right one.

Disconnect the wires from the old receptacle and straighten the bent ends. Cut 6-inch “pigtails” of white and black wires and strip 5/8 inch of insulation from both ends. Match the gauge of these wires to the amperage of the circuit: 14-gauge for 15-amp circuits and 12-gauge for 20-amp circuits. The correct amperage will be marked on the fuse or circuit breaker whose circuit you’re connecting to. Splice the new white wire to the existing neutral white wires, and the black to the existing hot wires. Make sure the wire connectors you’re using can safely connect the three 14- or 12-gauge wires. This information is printed on the package.

Connect the new wires to the GFCI terminals marked “Line.” Connect the black wire to the brass screw and the white wire to the side that’s labeled “white,” “W” or has a silver screw. Do not connect wires to the “Load” terminals. If there’s no equipment ground wire available (copper that is bare or is covered with green insulation), don’t connect anything to the GFCI ground terminal (green screw).

Fold the wires neatly into the box. Screw the GFCI to the box and install the cover plate. If you didn’t have an equipment ground wire, attach a sticker to the cover plate saying “No Equipment Ground.” This sticker is included with most GFCI receptacles.

Plumbing Tips

Q: How can I have safe drinking water at home?

A: One solution is reverse osmosis. You can install a pump/filter to your sink and have safe, clean, sodium-free, refreshing drinking water at your disposal.

Q: What should I do before I leave our summer house for the season?

A: You should turn off the main water source and repair or replace any leaky faucets. Also, you may want to consider installing a “snifter valve” which will allow you blow out the waterlines by using an air compressor. By blowing out the excess water, you will prevent any water from getting trapped in the lines and possibly freezing.

Q: Should I use a water softener?

A: You do not NEED to but, to help eliminate soap scum from your dishes and appliances, you should. A water softener will remove the calcium from your water which can be the cause of pipe erosion. By preventing pipe erosion and eliminating calcium buildup, you are also giving your skin a break (allowing it to stay soft).

Q: Is there a way to manually increase the pressure in my showerhead?

A: Yes, by removing the water saving flow restrictor that is installed in the showerhead. No need to call a plumber.

Q: What do I do if I want to increase the water pressure in my entire house?

A: For the entire house, use a booster pump which can be installed on the main waterline. You can gauge this device and build the water pressure up to your desired strength. By using a booster pump, you will also eliminate the loss of pressure to other fixtures when they are used simultaneously.

Q: How can I inspect my drains for clogs?

A: There is a special device that a plumber uses called a “see snake” that can fit down your pipes and see any potential blockage problems or pipe repair issues. It is better to see the potential problems before the drains become completely clogged and will need to be taken apart to fix.

Q: I want to change my toilet, but which one do I choose to replace it?

A: There are several brands and models out there, but remember that the new high efficiency toilets will help save money and future plunging. Choose a brand name toilet like American Standard for superior flushing power and reliability.

Q: Should I worry about my washing machine hoses?

A: Yes, the standard for replacing a washing machine or dishwashing machine hose is about once every four years. Do not try to fix a leaky hose with duct tape, rather go buy a new hose and replace it. This will save time and money, not to mention potential flooding later.