NOVA PROS Home Improvement Resource » Electrical

How to Winterize a Hot Tub

admin — Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:00:44 +0000

Winterizing your hot tub

The hot tub is one of the most fun items in anyone’s backyards, and many people like to enjoy their hot tub all year round. There is nothing wrong with jumping into the hot tub when the snow lies deep and thick in the rest of the yard, but some people do prefer to winterize their hot tub. Again there is nothing wrong with winterizing the hot tub, but problems do arise when the winterization is not done correctly, and these problems can be expensive ones.

The first step in winterizing a hot tub is to ensure that all electrics, including the heating system, are turned off. Then it is necessary to start the draining process. Most of the water within a hot tub can be easily removed by opening up the drain, but the use of a pump will aid the removal of water from crevices like foot wells. This process will remove the majority of water, but the removal of the majority of water is not sufficient. The major problem with incorrect winterization of hot tubs is that water is left, expands and damages parts of the tub.

To remove all water from a hot tub, there are several additional steps that need to be taken. The use of a towel, sponge, mop or similar product will help soak up the remnants of water, but it is also necessary to find out where any water is lurking. Some hot tubs will come with air blowers and these will also need to be cleared of water. This will require the power to be reconnected, but allowing the air blowers to run for a few seconds will clear any water remnants.

Filters can then be removed, cleaned or replaced, before stored somewhere safe. Water will also remain behind many of the hot tub’s fittings. Most new hot tubs will have easy to remove fittings, especially around the heater and pump. By simply loosening these fittings, water will start to drain away but any residue should be pumped away or soaked up. Jet pipes will also need to be cleared in a similar way, although blowing the water out is normally a more effective approach.

The hot tub cover should then be put in place. Ideally this will be a hard cover, as it makes it a lot easier to secure and also make watertight, as well as rodent tight. If the winter is anticipated to be extremely harsh, an additional winter hot tub cover should also be purchased and put in position.

Many places that sell pool and hot tub supplies will offer a range of antifreeze products for the hot tub. There are some good products in the marketplace, but there is always the problem of removing all traces of product when the hot tub is to be used again.

After correct winterization, the hot tub should be in a perfect position for the spring.

Many people prefer to hire in professionals to winterize their hot tub, and this is certainly the safest approach, if not the cheapest in the short term. It is always better to err on the side of caution when winterizing a hot tub, but with care and attention it is still something that any homeowner can do.

Correct winterization will ensure that a hot tub has a long life. Ensuring that water can not freeze and cause damage is essential, and this includes removing all water, but also preventing any snow from entering the hot tub after draining.

Article by Tim Harry. To read more articles by this author, go to Helium.

Is Your Home Wired Properly?

LillyTeam — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 15:27:29 +0000

We all know that as things age, they often need replacing but sometimes homeowners neglect to take care of their home’s electrical wiring and that can set them up for potential danger. Electrical consumption since the middle of the last century has increased in most homes on average about 400 percent.

If you’re tripping your main safety circuit box that could be a sign that you’re overloading the electrical outlets and an indication that an electrical contractor should examine your wiring. Oftentimes, homes are renovated several times without any electrical wiring updated. Yet, this is a part of the house that can cause huge problems if it isn’t kept up-to-date.

Outdated circuit boxes
When a home hits the 40-year mark the biggest area of electrical concern is the circuit breaker box. Zack Israel, owner of Mike Electric, says that when the circuit box becomes outdated, “it doesn’t do what it’s supposed to do.” He says that as the house ages, the brand of the circuit box becomes obsolete “and today, a new generation of improved boxes is being installed.” Israel cautions homeowners about the danger of not replacing an old and outdated circuit box. “If the breaker doesn’t trip then the wire might melt and cause a fire,” says Israel.

Kitchen wiring upgrades
An area of an older home that typically needs upgraded wiring is the kitchen. “The kitchen is an area that always needs to be upgraded after 40 years. Several decades ago we didn’t have microwaves and all the appliances that we have today,” says Israel. He says that what can happen if the kitchen wiring isn’t upgraded is that when appliances are used, the circuit breaker trips or, even worse, it doesn’t trip at all. “So the kitchen is an area that you want to upgrade and bring more power to it,” he says.

The electrical code requires two circuits of 20-amps, 120 volts for GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) receptacles for the kitchen/eating area. However, more might be necessary depending on appliances being used.

Heavy-duty appliances need dedicated outlet
A common problem for homeowners occurs when there isn’t proper distribution of the electrical circuits. Israel says homeowners often don’t understand this. “Let’s say for example that [depending on the weather] a homeowner tries to use a portable air conditioning system or heater and plugs it into just any plug – and boom! there’s no power – it trips the circuit. This is common. People don’t know that they need a dedicated circuit for that kind of appliance,” says Israel.

Wire insulation cracks
Another big problem for older homes is that electrical wiring insulation cracks. “Especially in the ceiling lights, the heat from the light rises into the box and causes the wiring insulation to crack,” says Israel. When homeowners consider tackling the task of rewiring their home they’re often overwhelmed by it—feeling like it will be too expensive and too much trouble. While it is true rewiring can be a major renovation that, in some cases, even means the homeowner must leave the home for a period of time – due to electricity needing to be turned off or just the inconvenience of living with workers in your home — the end result of peace of mind from knowing your electrical system is working properly and no longer at risk of causing a fire – (a major concern of home insurers) – is well worth the expense and any temporary hassles.

Written by Phoebe Chongchua as found in Craig Lilly’s Newsletter.

Electrical Safety

ArdilaConstruction — Wed, 29 Jul 2009 11:24:34 +0000

Although it seems pretty common sense to do so, several people, including professional electricians do not adhere to all electrical safety. The most common is working on “live” wires.

Below are a few tips to keep you safe while working on any electrical projects:

Never work on any live circuit, fixture, receptacle, or switch.

Always shut off power at the main disconnect before changing a fuse.

Always shut off power to the circuit before repairing or replacing a switch, receptacle, or fixture.

Always tape over the main switch, empty fuse socket, or circuit breaker, empty fuse socket or circuit breaker when you’re working. Leave a note there so no one will accidentally turn on the electricity. Keep any fuses you’ve removed in your pocket.

Always check that the circuit is actually dead before you begin working on it. Use a circuit tested or voltammeter.

Always unplug any appliance or lamp before repairing it.

Stay Safe.

Changing Electrical Switches

Details — Wed, 08 Apr 2009 17:43:31 +0000

Changing a wall switch can be pretty simple, but having some basic knowledge of the different types of switches and how to replace them can be most helpful.

Types of switches
A Single-Pole switch controls a light/receptacle in one location only. The switch has two screws of the same color.

A Three-Way switch operates in pairs to control a light/receptacle in two locations. The switch has two screws of the same color (either brass or silver), and one screw of another color (either copper or black). This copper or black screw is called the common terminal screw.

A Dimmer switch is wired as the single-pole switch and have either terminal screws or lead wires.

CAUTION: Before working on any switch, make sure the power to that switch is SHUT OFF.

Replacement Tips
Read ALL information embossed on the back of the new switch, which should have the same amp and voltage ratings as the old.

Pay attention to marks on the replacement switches, and make sure they match up to your existing switch. If your home’s wiring is aluminum, use only replacement switches marked CO/ALR. Replace unmarked switches and switches marked CU/AL with switches marked CO/ALR. Don’t backwire switches to aluminum wiring, attach aluminum wires to terminal screws only.

Replacing a Single-Pole Switch
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Unfasten the wires.
Loop the stripped wired ends clockwise around the terminal screws on the new switch.
Tighten the terminal screws with a screwdriver (hand tight).
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Replacing a Backwired Single-Pole Switch
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Using a small bladed screwdriver, press the screwdriver into the release slots on the back of the switch, then pull wire out of slots.
Push in the stripped wire ends into the slots on the new switch.
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Replacing a Three-Way Switch
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Make sure you label the wire to the common terminal screw with tape.
Install the new switch, attaching the labeled wire to the common terminal screw (black or copper.)
Re-connect each remaining wire to either of the remaining screws.
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Installing Dimmer Switch with Terminal Screws
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Loop the circuit wires clockwise around the terminal screws on the dimmer.
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Installing Dimmer Switch with Lead Wires
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Connect the circuit wires to the dimmer’s lead wires, twisting them together.
Screw on wire nuts and insert the dimmer in the box.
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Tips on how to strip electrical wires
Use a utility knife or penknife to strip insulation off the ends of the wire.
Use the knife blade to cut through the insulation all the way around, then pull the insulation off the wire.
Be careful not to nick the wire when you cut as a nicked wire breaks more easily.
If you do nick the wire, just start over and cut the wire back to the nick.

For the best results, purchase a wire stripper at your local hardware store.

Home Safety

ArdilaConstruction — Fri, 13 Feb 2009 14:05:09 +0000

Did you know that over 26,000 injuries were reported in one year due to improper use of a snow shovel? Another 20,000 + injuries occurred while using a barbecue grill. And over 220,000 injuries occurred while using a ladder.

These numbers are staggering, but a little home safety awareness can keep you from the hospital and from being a statistic for next year.

Ladders: 227, 769 injuries reported in one year.
“Falls happen when guys lean over a little too far,” says Meri-K Appy of the Home Safety Council. A good rule of thumb is if your belt buckle goes past either side of the ladder, then you have reached too far. Climb down the ladder and reposition making sure that for every four feet that you have to climb up the ladder, that the base is one foot away from the wall/house.

Power Saws: 83,747 injuries reported in one year.
Dr. Steven Johnson of the University of Maine cooperative extension states that “[s]ince dull blades don’t cut well, you may hit a knot or staple in the wood and the saw may jerk out of your hands or kick back.” First, you should test the blades’ sharpness by cutting a small piece of wood scrap to see if the blade cuts clean or rips the wood. If it rips the wood, then a new blade is on order. You can always resharpen your blades, but replacement is better.

Snow Shovels: 26,117 injuries reported in one year.
These injuries are mostly back injuries, which Dr. Arya Nick Shamie, an associate professor of spine surgery at UCLA stresses that “[y]ou shouldn’t pick up more than 10 to 15 percent of your body weight” when shoveling snow. You should turn your foot in the direction that you want to throw the snow to avoid any twisting motion. Twisting strains that back. Using a shovel with a bent handle is also helpful as “[i]t keeps your spine in a more neutral position,” says chiropractic orthopedist Dr. Douglas Krebs.

Barbecue Grills: 20,677 injuries reported in one year.
The cause of most grill injuries is due to gas leaks. Over the winter, the grill usually sits dormant in the cold weather, allowing the hoses to freeze, and possibly crack. Then comes summer when you want to light up the grill not realizing the hoses are damaged, and next thing you know, the whole grill is in flames and you along with it. Test your grill before using it by pouring soapy water at the hose connection and all along the hose. Turn the gas on slightly, and if bubbles form or you smell the gas, shut the tank off, and buy a new hose. Make sure all the gas has cleared before trying to light.

Fireplaces: 17, 142 injuries reported in one year.
Sitting by the fire and reading a good book is one way to pass by the winter blues, but burning your garbage is not. Burning household waste can release harmful chemicals into the air. Remember to always use seasoned wood that is dry, as fresh, green wood can cause a buildup of creosote which can coat the chimney and increase your fire hazard. Before using your fireplace in the winter, or after seasonal use, have a chimney sweep inspect your fireplace and flue for damage or buildup, then clean as necessary.

Nail Guns: 14,800 injuries reported in one year.
Carter Oosterhouse, host of HGTV’s Carter Can expresses the need to holding the nail gun perpendicular to the mark so the nail does not shoot to the side, where your finger might be. He says to keep your hands at least four inches away from where you want the nail to go. If don’t use a nail gun as often, think about using a lightweight one as it is easier to handle.

Wires: 11,971 injuries reported in one year.
Extension cords are being used as a permanent plug by three out of four Americans, increasing their risk of fires according to the Electrical Safety Foundation International. Those cords are then being shoved up under furniture to hide them and that is the very action that causes the hazard. When the cords are “hidden” the become bent up, cracked, and the wires become exposed which can lead to an ignition and then a fire. Hiring an electrician to add more outlets may cost a bit more than a few electrical cords, but it will keep you safer.

Repairs That Help Sell Your Home

LillyTeam — Wed, 11 Feb 2009 18:03:20 +0000

Most sellers know of some repairs that need to be made to their home, and a lot of sellers have many items on that list, but not all repairs are equal or, rather, not all home improvements rank high in the buyer’s mind.

Finding out which repairs will help you sell your home helps you create a good, solid fix-it list to work on. A study produced by HomeGain aimed to take the guess-work out of where to spend your repair dollars. According to the study, the top four areas to focus on are: clean and de-clutter, lighten and brighten, stage the home for sale, and landscape the front/back yards.

The Return on Investment (ROI) depends on the repair and, in some cases, which part of the country you live in. “In some areas of the country things cost more and some people don’t care about some things as much as others do in other areas,” says Jessica Gopalakrishnan, Sr. Marketing Manager for HomeGain.

Here’s how HomeGain breaks down the ROI for the top four repairs. Cleaning and decluttering can create a 578 percent ROI (the highest return was 837 percent in the West). The ROI for staging a home was 340 percent (this category ranked second in the South and Mid-West). Landscaping the front and back yards, brought in a 415 percent ROI. According to the survey, each of these repairs range in cost from a few to several hundred dollars but can return thousands in profit.

Rounding out the study’s top-ten list of repairs are: Repair electrical or plumbing problems, replace or shampoo carpeting, paint interior walls, paint exterior walls, repair damaged flooring, update kitchen and bathrooms. Gopalakrishnan says routine maintenance can help too.

“Not washing the windows is something so simple but a big mistake that homesellers make,” says Gopalakrishnan. Another top mistake is covering up or neglecting care of the floors. “If they leave a dirty carpet on the floor that would be a mistake,” says Gopalakrishnan. She adds that a key strategy for staging a home is to, “lift up the carpets and show off those nice floors — give them a quick shine and clean them up first.”

When you make the above repairs costing approximately $5,000 – $8,000, HomeGain, says that prices, for example, on a three bedroom, two bathroom home can result in price increases: in the West, as high as $22,762; in the East, as high as $23,532; in the South, $21,470; in the Mid-West, $20,279.

“With homes sitting on the market longer, homeowners should do everything they can to sell it quickly and at a price they expect,” says, Louis Cammarosano, General Manager at HomeGain.

The survey collected information from 2,000 real estate agents across the U.S.

The online resource also has a “What If” tool that allows users to hypothetically add a room, bathroom, or even square footage to a home to calculate value estimates on residential properties.

Written by Phoebe Chongchua as found in Craig Lilly’s newsletter at http://www.lillyteam.com

Keep up the Remodeling

LillyTeam — Mon, 19 Jan 2009 18:51:01 +0000

Despite home price drops in many cities, remodeling projects are holding their own as a way for owners to add value. Many people are wondering where their money will be safest during these uncertain economic times. Experts still advise investing in your home still pays off.

National Association of Realtors® (NAR) statistics show that home prices have fallen by an average of 7 percent nationally in the past year. But the value of home owners’ investment in remodeling projects has declined only 3.86 percent on average between 2007 and 2008, according to Remodeling’s 2008–2009 Cost vs. Value Report.

Remodeling produces the Cost vs. Value Report each year in cooperation with Realtor® magazine. Realtors responding to a survey in midsummer said home owners could expect to recoup a national average of 67.3 percent of their investment in 30 different home improvement projects. At the height of the housing boom in 2005, home owners could expect to recoup a national average of 86.7 percent on projects.

Remodeling remains hot in 10 cities, where, on at least some projects, home owners can recover 100 percent of their costs. In Charlotte, N.C., for example, decks, midrange kitchen remodels, vinyl siding, and window-replacement projects all would net more than they cost, in respondents’ estimation. High rates of recovery were seen in both strong real estate markets and weak ones.

Many cities with the highest rates of recovery were smaller—Jackson, Miss., and Billings, Mont., for example—which may point to lower labor and materials costs that are easier to recoup.

Seattle also made the list of cities with a cost recovery of more than 100 percent on decks and minor kitchen remodels. In fact, Pacific Coast cities recorded the best payback on remodeling by a wide margin, as they did in 2007. Although construction costs on the Pacific Coast are nearly 17 percent higher than national averages, the value of renovations at resale more than makes up for those higher prices.

The result is an average cost-recouped percentage that’s 14.8 percent higher than in the rest of the country. The toughest place to get your money back: Midwestern cities such as Chicago, Cleveland, Indianapolis, and Milwaukee.

Top 10 Project Paybacks
Once again, exterior remodeling projects lead the way for recovery on dollars spent in this year’s Cost vs. Value survey. When you compare the national averages, replacement projects that boost curb appeal—siding, windows, and decks—give you the greatest chance of recouping your money. Inside, only kitchen remodels can compare, at least on a national level.

* Upscale fiber cement siding (86.7%)
* Midrange wood deck (81.8%)
* Midrange vinyl siding (80.7%)
* Upscale foam-backed vinyl (80.4%)
* Midrange minor kitchen remodel (79.5%)
* Upscale vinyl window replacement (79.2%)
* Midrange wood window replacement (77.7%)
* Midrange vinyl window replacement (77.2%)
* Upscale wood window replacement (76.5%
* Midrange major kitchen remodel (76.0%)

Written by Realty Times Staff as found in Craig Lilly’s newsletter at http://www.lillyteam.com

11 Quick and Easy Home Repairs for under $25 (Project 2)

admin — Fri, 28 Nov 2008 14:26:41 +0000

Whether you’re a fledgling do-it-yourselfer or a veteran, here’s a collection of home repairs and fix-ups you can do in a few hours or less for under $25 each as posted by The Family Handyman online at Reader’s Digest.

GFCI_Outlet

Outlets: Make your old two-prong outlets safer; the easy way.

Increase the safety of your old two-prong outlets by installing a new ground fault circuit interrupter receptacle. The GFCI will protect against a deadly shock even if it’s not connected to a ground. But just because the GFCI has a hole for a third prong, don’t assume you can plug in three-prong plugs. The National Electrical Code (NEC) states that any appliance equipped with a three-prong plug is required to be grounded, and the installation shown does not provide the necessary equipment ground. Also, some computer equipment won’t work properly if it’s not grounded. The outlet will still be ungrounded, but the GFCI will “trip,” cutting off the current and protecting you from electrocution.

Before you start, make sure the outlet box is large enough to safely hold all of the wires and the new receptacle. Here’s the formula to figure the minimum box size required by the NEC: Add 1 for each hot and neutral wire entering the box, 1 for all of the wire clamps, and 2 for each receptacle. (You’d also add 1 if you had any ground wires.) Multiply this figure by 2 for 14-gauge wire and 2.25 for 12-gauge wire to get the minimum box volume in cubic inches. Our standard metal outlet box is defined by the NEC as having 14 cubic inches. Consult the code or call your electrical inspector for the volume of your metal box. Plastic boxes have the volume stamped in them.

GFCI receptacles have two sets of hot and neutral terminals, labeled “Line” and “Load.” The “Line” terminals are for incoming power. Connect the hot and neutral wires from the main panel to these “Line” terminals. The “Load” terminals are for protecting additional receptacles with the GFCI. Don’t use them unless you know where the wiring goes and whether or not you want to protect those receptacles. The “Load” terminals on our GFCI are covered with yellow tape to prevent someone from inadvertently connecting the power leads to them.

Turn off the power to the receptacle at the main electrical panel. Then carefully unscrew the outlet and pull it out of the box. Use a simple neon circuit tester to double-check that the power is off. Place the tester leads across both sets of hot and neutral terminal screws. If the tester lights up, shut off other circuits at the main panel until you find the right one.

Disconnect the wires from the old receptacle and straighten the bent ends. Cut 6-inch “pigtails” of white and black wires and strip 5/8 inch of insulation from both ends. Match the gauge of these wires to the amperage of the circuit: 14-gauge for 15-amp circuits and 12-gauge for 20-amp circuits. The correct amperage will be marked on the fuse or circuit breaker whose circuit you’re connecting to. Splice the new white wire to the existing neutral white wires, and the black to the existing hot wires. Make sure the wire connectors you’re using can safely connect the three 14- or 12-gauge wires. This information is printed on the package.

Connect the new wires to the GFCI terminals marked “Line.” Connect the black wire to the brass screw and the white wire to the side that’s labeled “white,” “W” or has a silver screw. Do not connect wires to the “Load” terminals. If there’s no equipment ground wire available (copper that is bare or is covered with green insulation), don’t connect anything to the GFCI ground terminal (green screw).

Fold the wires neatly into the box. Screw the GFCI to the box and install the cover plate. If you didn’t have an equipment ground wire, attach a sticker to the cover plate saying “No Equipment Ground.” This sticker is included with most GFCI receptacles.