NOVA PROS Home Improvement Resource » Windows

Winter Is Not Over Yet

RoofingandMore — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:00:33 +0000

What winter upgrades do you need for your home?

This is no time to neglect your home, regardless of where you live. At this time of year, many homeowners – especially in colder regions – neglect the condition of their homes in anticipation of warmer weather. Even in warmer regions – where weather can be unpredictable – this is the time of year when home improvements take the back burner. Let’s take a look at some areas of your home that can benefit from your attention right now.

Doors/Windows. Perhaps you did all the right things before the colder weather set in…you checked for drafts, replaced weather stripping…maybe even replaced some of your doors and windows. Now is the time to determine if the improvements you made were effective. If you are still experiencing some drafty conditions, it’s time to call your local contractor in to perform an inspection and schedule the required work to fix the condition as soon as weather permits.

Roofing/Gutters. Again, you may have performed the necessary inspections/improvements to your roofing prior to the onset of winter, but are now finding that it’s not enough. Now is the time to inspect your roofing and gutters, or better still, call a professional to discuss any ice dams or icicles that may cause serious damage to your roof. In warmer climates, this is the time of year to address any gutters that may be sagging as a result of too much rain and debris.

Landscaping. Regardless of where you may live, there is no better time than now to consider your outdoor landscaping. Even if it’s currently covered in snow, by calling a landscape professional now, you’ll avoid being wait-listed when everyone else in your neighborhood decides to act. The process for designing and constructing your perfect paradise can – and should – take months, so even in warmer climates, why not start planning now, before everyone else does?

Remodeling. For many homeowners, holidays reveal that they simply don’t have enough room in their current home or that their existing space could use some remodeling. With proper planning by a remodeling professional, you’ll be ready the next time guests emerge on your home for any reason.

Siding/Fencing/Decks. This time of year also has a way of revealing imperfections or problems with your siding/fencing and/or deck. It may be time to upgrade to a newer vinyl or other available material for maximum durability and beauty.

After the holidays are over is the perfect time to start planning those home improvement projects you’ve been putting off for far too long. Get a jump on your neighbors who will all be envious of how great your home looks when spring and summer roll around. You’ll leave them all scratching their heads saying “why didn’t I think of that?”

Fall Home Fixes

LillyTeam — Mon, 15 Nov 2010 12:00:45 +0000

Fall Home Improvements

Fall is an important time to weather-proof your home. Cooler air is working its way across the country, and that means some home maintenance is in order.

Here are a few items you should attend to this season.

1. Trim back nonflowering bushes: These plants are headed into their dormant stage, and that means you can get in one last trim before cold weather.

2. Mums the word: Chrysanthemums are a great way to keep your front step colorful and inviting. Find your favorite color at your local plant nursery!

3. Fall cleaning: Clean-up isn’t just for Spring anymore. Fall is prime time to pick up and put away gardening tools, summer toys, and pool supplies. Take advantage of the beautiful and temperate weather by tidying up your yard.

4. Seasonal items: Welcome mats and wreaths are easy ways to add a warm and welcoming touch to your home.

5. Storm windows. Champions of keeping in heat on cold days, storm windows are something you can install on your own. To install, remove and store your screens. Clean out the window tracks. And then use a little spray lubrication to make the storm windows slide more easily into place.

6. Clean the gutters. Throughout the season, leaves will fill your gutters. Be sure to keep your gutters clear of debris so that rain water does not do damage to your home.

7. Chimneys: Have each chimney cleaned and checked for cracks and leaks. A chimney fire would put a real damper on your holidays!

8. Change filters: This should be done every 3 months, if not more frequently. Filters cost just dollars, and clean ones mean fewer allergens in your air.

9. Heater servicing: After sitting for a year, your unit will need serviced. This will ensure it runs smoothly when you really need it.

10. Hot water heater: Use Fall as the time to drain your hot water heater and to remove sediment from the bottom. This will improve your unit’s efficiency.

Enjoy the cooler weather and get that home in order!

Written by Carla Hill as found in Craig Lilly’s Newsletter.

Weatherstripping Windows

ArdilaConstruction — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 12:00:09 +0000

Weatherstripping windows is easy

Weatherstripping windows is easy. However, there are different ways of weatherstripping double-hung and casement windows. Double-hung windows require two types of weatherstripping. Casement windows only require one.

For Double-Hung Windows:

1. Clean the bottom of the sash with soap and water and let dry.

2. Cut the foam weatherstripping to length.

3. Peel the back from the foam. Press the adhesive side of the foam against the bottom of the sash to form a tight bond.

4. Clean the jamb with soap and water. Allow it to dry completely.

5. Cut two pieces of V-channel 1″ longer than each sash height.

6. Peel the back from the V-channel and work it between the sash stiles and the jamb. Press the channel firmly into the jamb.

7. Drive finish nails through the weatherstripping into the jamb to hold it securely. Test the sash to ensure it doesn’t catch on the nails.

8. Clean the back of the bottom sash with soapy water and allow it to dry completely.

9. Cut a piece of V-channel to match the width of the sash.

10. With the sash raised 3″ to 4″, peel the back from the channel and press it firmly into the back of the sash even with the top. The V should open facing up so the weatherstripping compresses when the window is closed.

For Casement Windows:

1. Open the window and clean the outside of the stops with soapy water. Allow the stops to dry completely.

2. Cut self-adhesive foam to fit the top, bottom and sides of the stops.

3. Remove the back from each piece of foam and press it into the outside of the stops.

Article courtesy of Lowe’s.

Remodelers Help Homeowners Lower Heating Costs with Weatherization Programs

LillyTeam — Mon, 04 Oct 2010 12:00:49 +0000

Weatherization reduces heating bills by 32 percent

Winter is right around the corner and in honor of Energy Awareness Month, the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI) recommends making energy-efficient upgrades as a way to prepare for the season, and many remodelers are offering weatherization programs to help them reduce energy costs. Mark of Excellence Remodeling is one such remodeling company that recently introduced a weatherization program.

“The programs are funded by both state and federal governments, and the purpose is to raise consumer awareness of the types of upgrades that are needed to make homes more energy efficient,” said Neil Parsons, vice president of sales and marketing for Mark of Excellence Remodeling, West Long Branch (NJ).

Weatherization is a term to describe various improvements made to buildings and homes to optimize energy efficiency. According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), on average, weatherization reduces heating bills by 32 percent and overall energy bills by about $350 per year at current prices. Through an evaluation known as an energy audit, homeowners are given a detailed report identifying problem areas in the home.

Typical energy improvements include air sealing, insulation, ventilation systems or installation of green appliances approved by Energy Star. “As consumers become aware that our energy resources are depleting and costs are rising with each year, energy efficiency is becoming a relevant topic in home improvement projects,” said William E. Carter, president of NARI.

Even though each state provides slightly different programs with a variation of incentives, all of them provide the same benefits to homeowners. “Homeowners notice their return on investment instantly after making energy upgrades in their utility bills. The other benefits are the rebates, the increase in home value from making the improvements, increased performance and durability and helping out the planet by conserving energy for future generations,” added Parsons.

It’s important to make upgrades now because soon most of the country will be entering the time of year when most of a home’s energy consumption occurs. The DOE estimates that 56 percent of the energy use in a typical U.S. home comes from heating and cooling, making it the largest energy expense for most homes.

“Most believe that remodelers are busiest during the summer, but in actuality, the busiest time is during the fall when temperatures drop and homeowners start to feel drafts in their homes and are worried about heating costs,” explained Parson. Another time factor is the program deadlines.

Many state programs last until the end of the year, and energy-efficient improvements must be made within the specified time period to be eligible for rebates. To learn more about your state weatherization programs, visit dsireusa.org. However, Parsons doesn’t think any of the weatherization programs will be going away for good. “Most likely, programs will be extended or modified after deadlines as the government continues to put a high premium on increasing energy efficiency,” he said, adding that if homeowners are considering an energy upgrade, there is no better time than now. “Homeowners who are considering this should seek out a certified contractor that you can trust to give you sound advice about making your home more efficient.”

Written by Peter L. Mosca as found in Craig Lilly’s Newsletter.

2010: Don’t Miss Out on Home Improvement Tax Credits

RoofingandMore — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 12:00:54 +0000

In early 2009, the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act was enacted as part of a plan to stimulate the economy. The bill grants tax credits to homeowners who make specific home improvements during 2009 and 2010 that meet certain energy-efficiency guidelines.

If you made home improvements in 2009, make sure that you have what you need to claim the credits on your 2009 taxes. If you missed out in 2009, these credits still apply for 2010. Start planning now so that you can take advantage!

Here are some of the basics; for detailed information go to EnergyStar.Gov.
1. The eligible improvement must be placed in service or work must be completed between January 1, 2009 and December 31, 2010.
2. A maximum of $1,500 can be claimed for qualifying products.
3. You must have a Manufacturer Certification Statement for the product in order to qualify. Save receipts and the Manufacturer Certification Statement; for new windows, keep the Energy Star label.
4. Improvements must be made to your principal residence. However, certain products also qualify for second homes.
5. Claim improvements made in 2009 on your 2009 taxes using IRS Tax Form 5695.
6. Tax credits for windows, doors, insulation, roofs, HVAC, and non-solar water heaters are not available for new homes. Certain other improvements do qualify for new homes.

Items that are eligible for the tax credits include:
1. Exterior windows, skylights, storm windows, and doors that have a U factor below 0.30 and a Solar Heat Gain Coefficient, or SHGC, of less than 0.30.
2. Certain types of insulation – specific lifespan and warranty requirements apply.
3. Energy Star brand metal or asphalt roofing – specific lifespan and warranty requirements apply.
4. Central air conditioning
5. Furnaces – either natural gas or propane
6. Heat pumps
7. Hot water boilers
8. Hot water heaters – either gas, oil, or propane
9. Biomass stoves
10. Photovoltaic solar panels
11. Wind energy systems
12. Residential fuel cells and micro-turbine systems

All qualifying products must meet certain energy-efficiency levels; thus, not all products qualify for the tax break. Only those with higher energy efficiency ratings are eligible, and these products typically cost more than standard products. Also remember that the $1,500 maximum (as a percentage up to 30% of the cost of the upgrade) is cumulative for ALL improvements.

If you’re thinking about making home improvements this year, the time is definitely now! Your home improvement professional can provide you with additional information on qualifying products and exceptions.

How to Save on Utility Bills

ZoeMack — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:23:21 +0000

Everyone wants to save money on their utility bills. You could always simply stop using your utilities; this would save you the most money, but you would likely find that you missed electricity, heat, and running water. The trick is to find ways to reduce your consumption of gas, water, and electricity without noticeably impacting your life. There are a number of ways to do this, most of which you may not even notice until you are pleasantly surprised by your lower bills.

LIGHTING
1. Switch to compact fluorescent (CF) light bulbs.
CF bulbs (the little spiral bulbs that fit in standard light sockets) generally use only a quarter of the electricity it takes to power standard light bulbs. When the average home contains around 40 light bulbs, this can add up to some serious savings. CF bulbs are a bit more expensive, but they will last up to ten times as long, and will more than make up for their initial cost in savings. If you have light fixtures where the bulb is visible, there are CF bulbs that are designed to mimic the bulb shape of standard incandescents. There are also CF bulbs to replace your outdoor floodlights, so don’t stop at the inside of your home!

2. For holiday or other decorative lighting, consider LED lights.
LEDs consume only a trickle of electricity, so you can let your lawn or patio glow like the sun without panicking about the electric bill. LED lights cost a few more bucks than standard, high quality light strings, but if you plan on using them a lot, you will reap the benefits. As the popularity of LEDs grows, more and more options of color, size, and shape are available; many mimic standard light strings, others incorporate features like color changing.

3. Use automatic timers or sensors.
If you want the lights to be on when you come home, an automatic timer may be your answer. Plug a lamp into the timer, and set it to turn on just before you are due home. Outdoor timers can be used for any plug-in outdoor lighting (there are particularly good for holiday lights). Light and motion sensors, commonly found in floodlight fixtures, can turn on outdoor lights when the light senses motion or low light levels.

WATER, HOT OR OTHERWISE
Some of you country folk might be surprised to know that many people actually pay for their water. While the city folk may be jealous of your ability to use cold water with reckless abandon, everyone pays for making that cold water hot. The following are tips for conserving water of all temperatures:

1. Install low-flow shower heads and faucets.
Water saving shower heads are fairly inexpensive, and you probably won’t even notice all that water that is not hitting you on the head. Modern low-flow faucets will help you save even more money. All new toilets are water saving by law, but if you have an older model, fill a milk jug or soda bottle with water (don’t forget the cap) and put it in your tank. The bottle will take up space formerly occupied by water, thus saving you one milk jug’s worth of water every time you flush.

2. Turn your water heater down to the lowest acceptable temperature.
Set the thermostat on your water heater to 120 degrees. Many water heaters come from the factory preset higher. If you find you are running out of hot water, slowly adjust the temperature until you find the lowest one that suits your needs.

3. Stop watering that lawn!
Seriously, dead lawns are so in right now. Okay, okay. Maybe you can’t stop watering your lawn or garden, but you can help it need less water. For gardens, mixing a spongelike material like peat moss in with the dirt will help your soil retain water. Mulch can also help keep the soil from drying out. For lawns and gardens both, water them deeply but less often, and only during particularly hot or dry spells. Brief and frequent watering encourages shallow roots, which will actually make your plants weaker and easily killed by a single dry spell that coincides with your week of vacation.

4. Turn off the water when you aren’t using it.
We all turn off the water when we are completely done with it, but how many of us leave the water running while we shave or brush our teeth? If a family of four brushes their teeth for two minutes a day, twice a day, then the faucets are running for almost two extra hours each week.

5. Take showers instead of baths.
Showers use considerably less water than baths. Unless, of course, you take hour long showers. Try to keep your showers under ten minutes, and shave afterward in the sink.

6. Fill up the washing machine.
A load of laundry uses an average of 55 gallons of water. Add in extra rinse cycles, and it can use even more. Make the most of your water usage, and only wash full loads of laundry.

HEATING AND COOLING
1. Insulate your home.
For most people, this entails sealing the drafts around windows and doors, as well as providing adequate attic insulation and ventilation. In an older house, the heat loss from drafty windows can be equal to leaving a single window open all the time, so get yourself a tube of clear caulk and some weatherstripping and seal up those gaps! If your attic could use some extra insulation on the floor, add it, and make sure that you don’t block any vents along the eaves of the roof. Exhaust fans can help keep your attic cool and dry, as well as prolonging the life of your roof.

2. Install window film.
UV blocking window film can block a good portion of the UV rays and heat that come through your windows. While tinted versions are available, window film can also be completely clear. In the winter, window film can help retain heat.

3. Use a programmable thermostat.
Programmable thermostats are relatively inexpensive, and can save you lots of money. Set the heat lower during the night (you are sleeping, you won’t notice!) and during times when no one is home. Of course, keeping your house a few degrees cooler in winter and warmer in summer will help too.

4. Use ceiling fans during the summer.
Set the ceiling fan on “suck” instead of “blow”, and you will pull cool air up from the floor. Save your air conditioner for those truly unbearable days.

5. Consider installing a whole house fan.
Whole house fans are powerful fans installed in the attic hatchway. During the evening, when the temperature cools off, you can use them to quickly replace the hot, stale air in your home with fresh, cool night air. Just make sure your windows are open if you turn on the fan, or the suction can blow out your pilot lights and suck air the wrong way down your chimney!

OTHER TIPS
1. Adjust your fridge and freezer settings, and keep your fridge full.
Appliances that heat or cool generally draw the most power. For food safety, keep your fridge at least 40 degrees or cooler. If you keep your fridge full, it will have to work less to recool things when you open the door. (If you don’t feel like having a fridge full of food, use gallons of water.)

2. Dry your clothes outside during warmer weather.

Using some or all of these tips can help save you a considerable chunk of change on your utility bills. Invest that money wisely and buy yourself a sailboat when you retire! Or you could always blow it all on new shoes and fancy haircuts…

Major Campaign To Extend $8,000 Home Buyer Tax Credit Underway

LillyTeam — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 12:00:24 +0000

The House and Senate may have left Capitol Hill for their Summer break, but housing lobbyists are busy at work gearing up a major campaign to extend the $8,000 home buyer tax credit.

The credit for first-time purchasers is scheduled to expire November 30.

The National Association of Home Builders and the National Association of Realtors want to persuade Congress to nail down an extension of the credit, and maybe even broaden its coverage, as soon as possible.

The home builders are mounting an aggressive campaign during the congressional recess. The association is sending out local teams of members to meet with congressmen and senators in their home districts, urging not only a one year extension of the credit, but an expansion of the concept to cover all home buyers next year, not just first-timers.

Though the endorsement may, or may not, have been connected with the home builders’ campaign, one of the most politically powerful Democrats has already signaled that he favors a one year extension.

Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid of Nevada, said he thinks “it’s something we can get done.” According to a report in the Las Vegas Sun, Reid made the comment during a conference call with Nevada reporters.

Meanwhile, the influential chairman of the Senate banking committee, Connecticut Democrat Chris Dodd, has teamed up with Georgia Republican Senator Johnny Isakson to sponsor a bill that would extend the credit for another year and expand it to a $15,000 maximum.

In the House, two bills have been introduced to extend and expand the credit for either six months or 12 months. The National Association of Realtors is strongly supporting the extension efforts, and is sending its own delegations to lobby key members of the House Ways and Means committee and the Senate Finance committee.

So with all this going on, is it a sure thing that the tax credit will be available in some form for home buyers next year? Should consumers who can’t quite make the November 30 deadline breathe easier?

Absolutely not. There is no sure thing on Capitol Hill whenever legislation looks like it’s got a clear path to passage. That’s when opponents hijack the bill or filibuster it in the Senate.

Nonetheless, extension of the credit looks like it has growing bipartisan support. Mary Trupo, legislative spokesperson for the National Association of Realtors, told Realty Times that “we feel Congress is receptive” to the message that the housing tax credit helps create jobs, and stimulates the economy.

But nobody should assume it’s a done deal, until it is.

Written by Kenneth R. Harney as found in Craig Lilly’s Newsletter.

What To Know About Replacing Your Old Windows

admin — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 11:57:44 +0000

In today’s “green” economy, so many people are looking at ways to save money and energy at the same time.

Windows and doors are two of the biggest culprits when it comes to home energy loss. And replacing them is an easy to way to help the environment as well as put a little extra cash in your pockets.

There are several things to know before shopping for windows. Many of the big box home improvement retailers have knowledgeable and helpful associates, however, they may throw you a curve ball when you are pricing windows.

First of all, the only standard thing about windows is that you can see through them. There is no standardized size like doors. Windows come in all shapes and sizes. Secondly, who is going to install these new windows? Will you be doing the job yourself, or an independent contractor, a friend, or will you use the installations services offered by the home improvement retailer?

Generally it is a good idea to get a couple of estimates from contractors or friends and compare the pricing. A lot of the big box retailers offer installation, however, they do require a down payment before you buy. Many are now switching to a free in-home service estimate. They will schedule an appointment with you and give you a complete estimate of the total job, including the price of the windows.

If you decide to tackle this job on your own, you may consider trying one or two windows first, just to get a feel for the task at hand. Based on that, you can budget out the rest of your project.

There are several of excellent brands of windows on the market. Many people do not realize the variety and are usually thrown for a loop when a sales associate starts spouting off unfamiliar brand names. Brands like Andersen, Jeld-Wen, Silverline, American Craftsman, Peach Tree, Pella, and Crestline offer excellent products at a variety of prices and styles.

Your next step will be deciding which type of window you want to replace the old ones with. There are wood windows, vinyl clad wood windows, aluminum clad wood windows and vinyl windows.

Vinyl windows, it should be noted, will have the same exterior and interior color. Vinyl clad wood, and aluminum clad wood come with an exterior color and either an unfinished wood or prefinished wood interior. Aluminum clad is the same as the vinyl clad.

Clad means, that on the exterior of the window, the wood frame is wrapped up by either a vinyl or aluminum material.

Windows also come in a variety of styles. Included are double-hung, single-hung, casement, awning, hopper, slider, or fixed. Double-hung windows are ones that both panes of glass slide up and down. In a single-hung, only the bottom pane slides up and down. Casement windows are hinged on the sides and crank out away from the house. Awning windows are hinged at the top and crank out also. A hopper, or basement, window, is hinged at the bottom and tilts in. Sliders are just that, the slide from left to right. Finally, fixed windows just don’t open at all.

Now that you made it this far, are just going to go with replacement windows or new construction? Replacement windows are ones that can be ordered to specific sizes and are designed to replace the old windows. New construction are just that, new construction. You have a blank wall to work with.

While new construction can be used in a replacement setting, it can be a bit more tricky. New construction windows usually cannot be ordered in specific sizes. There are a predetermined size range for these types of windows. So your measurements need to be precise. Also be prepared to do a little siding work on the outside and drywall work on the inside.

Once you have made that decision, you may hear some unfamiliar words “LoE” and “Argon Gas.” LoE is a technical term for Low Energy loss. It is a metallic coating put on the glass that is designed to reflect heat back to its source. So it will keep winter heat in and summer heat out. Argon Gas is a colorless, orderless gas that is injected between the panes in the panels. It too reduces heat loss and solar heat gain. A window with both will save you lots of money on energy bills.

Finally, before you start shopping, you need to know your size. Like I said earlier, windows come in all shapes and sizes. Many people don’t know where to measure to find out the size of their windows.

Most big box retailers deal with rough opening size. That is the size of the hole the window will be going in. Sometimes, they will use the frame size, which is the exact size of the window itself.

To get your rough opening size, you need to measure from jamb to jamb. That is the wood frame holding the window in the wall. To get your rough opening width, you need to measure in three places inside the track of the current window. Measure at the top, middle and bottom and go by your smallest measurement. Going by the smallest measurement will ensure a proper fit.

To find the rough opening height, you will need to measure from inside the tracks at the top of the window down to where the sill begins to slope outside. The highest point of you sill. Once again take three measurements: left, middle, and right, going by the smallest measurement.

Knowing this information, will be a big help when deciding to get rid of those old drafty windows. One other thing to look for is the Energy Star logo. Energy star windows are certified to help reduce energy loss in your home. Plus the federal government has been giving tax breaks to those who use Energy Star products.

For more information about energy ratings and overall consumer satisfaction, visit the website, National Fenestration Rating Council. It is a consumer advocate website that tests every window ever made and will give you an unbiased look at which one is the best and worst. They are a government funded website and hold no affiliation with any manufacturer or big box retailer.

How do I know so much? Well, I used to be a Millwork supervisor for The Home Depot. They were great at teaching me everything I needed to know to help sell windows and doors.

Written by Michael Burke as found on Helium.

How to Control Moisture in Your Basement

ZoeMack — Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:00:36 +0000

Whether you are trying to convert your basement into extra living space, or just want a dry place to store some extra stuff, reducing the moisture level of your basement is an important first step. Even if you only go into your basement to change the furnace filter, a drier basement will discourage mold and mildew, create a healthier environment throughout your home, and help keep your house itself in good condition.

The following tips will help you in your quest for a drier basement.

EVALUATE THE SOURCE OF THE MOISTURE:
In order to get rid of basement moisture, you need to first identify where it comes from. The following are common sources of basement moisture.

Inadequate drainage: If you get puddles on the floor during heavy rainstorms, your moisture at least partially comes from inadequate drainage around your house.

Moisture released through the foundation: Many new foundations are sealed with a moisture on the outside of the foundation wall, but older brick and cinder-block foundations can absorb moisture from the ground and release it into your basement.

High water table: Areas prone to flooding, like those near rivers, often have higher water tables that can rise after heavy rains, causing your basement to fill with water.

Human-generated sources: Venting a dryer indoors, basement showers, or windows that let in humid air are all easy-to-remedy sources of excess moisture in basements.

TACKLE POTENTIAL SOURCES FROM BIGGEST TO SMALLEST:
The biggest source of basement moisture is often inadequate drainage. First, check your gutter system: are the downspouts emptying at the base of the foundation? A significant amount of water is collected off the roof of a home during a rainstorm, and you don’t want to dump all this water right where it can leach into your basement. Even if the ground slopes away from the house, you want to extend the downspout at least three to four feet away from the foundation wall.

Ideally, your property should slope away from your foundation walls on all sides. If your house is built into the side of a hill, however, this may not be an option. The trick is to collect any surface water before it actually reaches your house. Drainage ditches will often do the trick; just make sure they have enough slope to actually carry the water around the house and away. If the water is already being channeled to a particular spot (like down a path,) consider installing a drain and pvc pipe to carry the water safely away from the house.

Now that you have gotten rid of a major source of moisture, it is time to tackle the basement walls. Moisture that comes through old brick or cinder-block walls is not always obvious. (In fact, obvious moisture may actually be condensation from dryer vents or humid outside air.) Your walls may feel a bit damp, or there may be slightly darker spots in certain areas.

If you suspect moisture is coming through your walls (and ESPECIALLY if you plan on sheetrocking,) buy a good waterproofing masonry paint like DryLoc. These paints are designed to seal up the pores of masonry surfaces and block water from getting through.

High water tables can prove one of the more difficult challenges when it comes to keeping your basement dry. Sump pumps and french drains (perforated pipes in a bed of gravel) installed under the floor may be needed, depending on the severity of the water problem. Depending on the particular situation, this can be an involved and expensive process. Fortunately, high water tables only pose an occasion issue for most home owners. If you have no intention of finishing your basement, sump pumps will often be adequate to deal with occasional flooding due to high water tables.

Eliminate easily-controlled moisture problems by venting dryers and bathrooms to the outside. During hot, humid days, keep basement windows closed. Don’t hang clothes to dry in your basement, and make sure any leaky plumbing is repaired. Automatic dehumidifiers can remove remaining moisture, but the tank will have to be emptied every few days. If you can somehow route a garden hose outside your basement, perhaps by drilling a hole through a window molding, there are dehumidifiers that can drain through a hose, eliminating the need to empty the tank. (Just remember, the hose will need to slope downhill for this to work. You may need to place your dehumidifier on a high shelf to accomplish this.)

Even if you have no plans for finishing your basement, using these tips to create a drier basement will be good for your health, the longevity of your home itself, and will make the basement a safer place to store things or set up a small work area.

Go “Green” and Save

HousingGuru — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 12:00:13 +0000

If your job is large enough to require the services of a professional architect, he/she will be able to provide guidance on how to make your project more environmentally friendly and energy efficient. Most of today’s design pros are schooled in the latest techniques, equipment, and finishes that can satisfy the most stringent environmental criteria.

However, if you are like most, and you’re only upgrading a bathroom, kitchen, or other project that requires only a skilled contractor, then you and your contractor will be responsible for the environmental and energy-saving considerations. We have a few tips that may be helpful.

In this section we’ll discuss structural wood panels, insulation, doors and windows, passive solar, lighting, roofing, exterior finishes, water-saving fixtures, energy-saving appliances, heating and cooling, and other topics related to “green building.” Unfortunately, we’ll only hit the high spots. An in-depth discussion is a book within itself, and there are some good books that you can find at your local library that will provide you with specific and detailed information on most any topic related to “green” living.

Structural insulated panels – Replaces traditional wall framing, reducing wood consumption and is more energy efficient than traditional framing. Structural panels are both strong and more resistant to air infiltration than are walls built with standard 2 x 4 studs, have higher “R” ratings, and more resistant to outside noise.

Insulation – Many new types of insulation offer advantages over the conventional materials used just a few years ago, and new materials are being introduced every year. Some of the new products are more environmentally friendly and less toxic than those with which you may be familiar. Icynene, the only spray-foam insulation certified by the Envirodesic air quality improvement certification program, is a great insulation and also reduces sound transmission. The advantages of some of the new materials are: less susceptibility to settling, higher “R” value, fire resistance, elimination of infiltration, and reduction of convective heat loss. Check with your contractor to see what is available in your area.

Doors and windows – Replacement doors and windows are available that can dramatically reduce both infiltration and passive energy loss. In many cases doors and windows can be replaced without replacing the existing frame, thus reducing installation costs. Check with your contractor.

Roofing – A new breed of roofing materials are more durable, long-lasting, and energy efficient, and some are even made from recycled materials. If you are planning to use asphalt shingles, a common choice in most regions, look for shingles made from recycled content. There are also fiber cement shingles, those made from plastic or rubber, and roofing made from various metals such as aluminum. If you are planning a new roof, you should also consider installing a radiant barrier on the underside of your roof. This will dramatically reduce attic heat and infiltration into the living space below.

Passive solar – Often overlooked, taking advantage of passive solar can add to both comfort and energy savings. Discuss orientation, window placement, and wall and floor materials with your architect or builder to reap the free benefits of the sun’s energy.

Exterior materials – The choice of exterior finish materials is much more than just appearance; certain materials are more energy efficient, environmentally friendly, and aesthetically pleasing. Your contractor and local building supply house can show you a number of options including fiber cement, artificial stone, natural cedar, recycled plastic, locally produced brick, or natural stucco.

Lighting – The first step in creating energy efficient lighting is to take advantage of the available natural light, to use windows and light tubes or channels to allow the sun’s light in. Be cautious when using traditional skylights, however, as they often are energy wasters; and improper installation can result in leaking which may be difficult to resolve. In warmer regions, skylights can also generate too much heat in the living space. Also, try to use as many fixtures as possible that will accept LEDs or compact fluorescent light bulbs. When using recessed fixtures make certain they are “IC” rated, which means they can be covered with insulation, reducing infiltration.

Flooring – There are many new flooring materials that are environmentally friendly, attractive, and less expensive than some of the more traditional materials. Flooring such as bamboo, which is actually a grass, is both renewable and beautiful. Harder than traditional oak flooring, prefinished bamboo is durable and comes in a variety of shades. For those who choose carpet, there are several options made from recycled material that offer the look and feel of traditional carpet. Other options are cork, recycled content tile, and natural linoleum. A good flooring contractor can discuss your flooring options.

High-efficiency plumbing fixtures – Sometimes referred to as “low-flow,” the new breed of plumbing fixtures are hardly that. Technological advances incorporate air to boost the flow of water, allowing faucets, shower heads, and toilets to function with more force than their water-wasting cousins. Specify products that carry the WaterSense certification, a designation of the EPA. Such fixtures will save you both water and money.

EnergyStar® appliances – When replacing appliances or mechanical equipment, look for those with the EnergyStar® logo. You’ll be helping the environment and your energy budget.

Plastic Plumbing Pipe – New innovations in plastic plumbing pipe can save both money and help protect the environment and may be superior to their more expensive, resource depleting counterparts. Long the standard for water supply, the cost of copper pipe has encouraged manufacturers to develop less expensive alternatives, such as Pex; and some of the new materials offer advantages in addition to cost. Check with your plumber and get a recommendation for your project.