The following tips will help you in your quest for a drier basement.

EVALUATE THE SOURCE OF THE MOISTURE:
In order to get rid of basement moisture, you need to first identify where it comes from. The following are common sources of basement moisture.

Inadequate drainage: If you get puddles on the floor during heavy rainstorms, your moisture at least partially comes from inadequate drainage around your house.

Moisture released through the foundation: Many new foundations are sealed with a moisture on the outside of the foundation wall, but older brick and cinder-block foundations can absorb moisture from the ground and release it into your basement.

High water table: Areas prone to flooding, like those near rivers, often have higher water tables that can rise after heavy rains, causing your basement to fill with water.

Human-generated sources: Venting a dryer indoors, basement showers, or windows that let in humid air are all easy-to-remedy sources of excess moisture in basements.

TACKLE POTENTIAL SOURCES FROM BIGGEST TO SMALLEST:
The biggest source of basement moisture is often inadequate drainage. First, check your gutter system: are the downspouts emptying at the base of the foundation? A significant amount of water is collected off the roof of a home during a rainstorm, and you don’t want to dump all this water right where it can leach into your basement. Even if the ground slopes away from the house, you want to extend the downspout at least three to four feet away from the foundation wall.

Ideally, your property should slope away from your foundation walls on all sides. If your house is built into the side of a hill, however, this may not be an option. The trick is to collect any surface water before it actually reaches your house. Drainage ditches will often do the trick; just make sure they have enough slope to actually carry the water around the house and away. If the water is already being channeled to a particular spot (like down a path,) consider installing a drain and pvc pipe to carry the water safely away from the house.

Now that you have gotten rid of a major source of moisture, it is time to tackle the basement walls. Moisture that comes through old brick or cinder-block walls is not always obvious. (In fact, obvious moisture may actually be condensation from dryer vents or humid outside air.) Your walls may feel a bit damp, or there may be slightly darker spots in certain areas.

If you suspect moisture is coming through your walls (and ESPECIALLY if you plan on sheetrocking,) buy a good waterproofing masonry paint like DryLoc. These paints are designed to seal up the pores of masonry surfaces and block water from getting through.

High water tables can prove one of the more difficult challenges when it comes to keeping your basement dry. Sump pumps and french drains (perforated pipes in a bed of gravel) installed under the floor may be needed, depending on the severity of the water problem. Depending on the particular situation, this can be an involved and expensive process. Fortunately, high water tables only pose an occasion issue for most home owners. If you have no intention of finishing your basement, sump pumps will often be adequate to deal with occasional flooding due to high water tables.

Eliminate easily-controlled moisture problems by venting dryers and bathrooms to the outside. During hot, humid days, keep basement windows closed. Don’t hang clothes to dry in your basement, and make sure any leaky plumbing is repaired. Automatic dehumidifiers can remove remaining moisture, but the tank will have to be emptied every few days. If you can somehow route a garden hose outside your basement, perhaps by drilling a hole through a window molding, there are dehumidifiers that can drain through a hose, eliminating the need to empty the tank. (Just remember, the hose will need to slope downhill for this to work. You may need to place your dehumidifier on a high shelf to accomplish this.)

Even if you have no plans for finishing your basement, using these tips to create a drier basement will be good for your health, the longevity of your home itself, and will make the basement a safer place to store things or set up a small work area.

However, if you are like most, and you’re only upgrading a bathroom, kitchen, or other project that requires only a skilled contractor, then you and your contractor will be responsible for the environmental and energy-saving considerations. We have a few tips that may be helpful.

In this section we’ll discuss structural wood panels, insulation, doors and windows, passive solar, lighting, roofing, exterior finishes, water-saving fixtures, energy-saving appliances, heating and cooling, and other topics related to “green building.” Unfortunately, we’ll only hit the high spots. An in-depth discussion is a book within itself, and there are some good books that you can find at your local library that will provide you with specific and detailed information on most any topic related to “green” living.

Structural insulated panels – Replaces traditional wall framing, reducing wood consumption and is more energy efficient than traditional framing. Structural panels are both strong and more resistant to air infiltration than are walls built with standard 2 x 4 studs, have higher “R” ratings, and more resistant to outside noise.

Insulation – Many new types of insulation offer advantages over the conventional materials used just a few years ago, and new materials are being introduced every year. Some of the new products are more environmentally friendly and less toxic than those with which you may be familiar. Icynene, the only spray-foam insulation certified by the Envirodesic air quality improvement certification program, is a great insulation and also reduces sound transmission. The advantages of some of the new materials are: less susceptibility to settling, higher “R” value, fire resistance, elimination of infiltration, and reduction of convective heat loss. Check with your contractor to see what is available in your area.

Doors and windows – Replacement doors and windows are available that can dramatically reduce both infiltration and passive energy loss. In many cases doors and windows can be replaced without replacing the existing frame, thus reducing installation costs. Check with your contractor.

Roofing – A new breed of roofing materials are more durable, long-lasting, and energy efficient, and some are even made from recycled materials. If you are planning to use asphalt shingles, a common choice in most regions, look for shingles made from recycled content. There are also fiber cement shingles, those made from plastic or rubber, and roofing made from various metals such as aluminum. If you are planning a new roof, you should also consider installing a radiant barrier on the underside of your roof. This will dramatically reduce attic heat and infiltration into the living space below.

Passive solar – Often overlooked, taking advantage of passive solar can add to both comfort and energy savings. Discuss orientation, window placement, and wall and floor materials with your architect or builder to reap the free benefits of the sun’s energy.

Exterior materials – The choice of exterior finish materials is much more than just appearance; certain materials are more energy efficient, environmentally friendly, and aesthetically pleasing. Your contractor and local building supply house can show you a number of options including fiber cement, artificial stone, natural cedar, recycled plastic, locally produced brick, or natural stucco.

Lighting – The first step in creating energy efficient lighting is to take advantage of the available natural light, to use windows and light tubes or channels to allow the sun’s light in. Be cautious when using traditional skylights, however, as they often are energy wasters; and improper installation can result in leaking which may be difficult to resolve. In warmer regions, skylights can also generate too much heat in the living space. Also, try to use as many fixtures as possible that will accept LEDs or compact fluorescent light bulbs. When using recessed fixtures make certain they are “IC” rated, which means they can be covered with insulation, reducing infiltration.

Flooring – There are many new flooring materials that are environmentally friendly, attractive, and less expensive than some of the more traditional materials. Flooring such as bamboo, which is actually a grass, is both renewable and beautiful. Harder than traditional oak flooring, prefinished bamboo is durable and comes in a variety of shades. For those who choose carpet, there are several options made from recycled material that offer the look and feel of traditional carpet. Other options are cork, recycled content tile, and natural linoleum. A good flooring contractor can discuss your flooring options.

High-efficiency plumbing fixtures – Sometimes referred to as “low-flow,” the new breed of plumbing fixtures are hardly that. Technological advances incorporate air to boost the flow of water, allowing faucets, shower heads, and toilets to function with more force than their water-wasting cousins. Specify products that carry the WaterSense certification, a designation of the EPA. Such fixtures will save you both water and money.

EnergyStar® appliances – When replacing appliances or mechanical equipment, look for those with the EnergyStar® logo. You’ll be helping the environment and your energy budget.

Plastic Plumbing Pipe – New innovations in plastic plumbing pipe can save both money and help protect the environment and may be superior to their more expensive, resource depleting counterparts. Long the standard for water supply, the cost of copper pipe has encouraged manufacturers to develop less expensive alternatives, such as Pex; and some of the new materials offer advantages in addition to cost. Check with your plumber and get a recommendation for your project.

Sunrooms let you enjoy natural light year round and can be designed to suit nearly every floor plan. Adding a sunroom to your home is an economical way to expand your living space. Sunrooms typically have a lower construction cost than traditional additions and can be completed in just a few weeks with minimal disruption. Since a sunroom adds to the square footage of your home, adding one can be an upgrade with a good return on investment.

To design a sunroom that suits your needs, enlist the help of a remodeling professional. You may be surprised at the types of sunrooms and options that are available.

Conservatory or Four-Season Sunroom
In the past, a conservatory meant a greenhouse for growing or displaying plants. Today, a conservatory sunroom, often called a four-season sunroom, is a room with mostly glass walls and possibly even a glass paneled roof. They are generally fully insulated, with duct work for heating and cooling for year-round comfort. Insulated, energy-efficient windows are durable and are designed to block the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays, while providing maximum exposure to natural light.

Conservatory and four-season sunrooms can serve as kitchens, living rooms, bedrooms, and home offices. Most homeowners want to be able to use a sunroom year round, so this option is what most people have in mind when they think about adding a sunroom.

Patio Room or Three-Season Sunroom
A three-season sunroom generally has no heating or cooling system. Thus, a three-season sunroom is less expensive than a conservatory or four-season sunroom and may not be suitable for year-round use.

Patio rooms generally are constructed on, or are converted from, an existing structure like a deck or a patio. The supporting structure must be sufficient to support not only the weight of the structure itself, but also any snow or rainwater that falls throughout the year. For this reason, an existing deck may need to be replaced to ensure that footings are sufficient to support the entire structure. Warming from the sun makes the three-season room comfortable in summer and in portions of the spring and fall, but is generally not sufficient in the winter months.

Ask your remodeling or sunroom professional about other options for making your sunroom unique, for example, varying the amount and type of glass or opting for a solid roof structure with skylights. Options are available to satisfy almost any personal preference, meet specific needs, or complement existing architectures. Consider bringing sunshine into your space with a new sunroom.

“Remodelers can help find the best methods of saving energy in your home with an assessment, like a home energy audit,” explained Greg Miedema, CGR, CGB, CAPS, CGP, a remodeler from Tucson, Ariz. “Tightening the house to reduce air leakage by adding insulation, fixing ducts, and installing a more efficient heating and air conditioning system can help save on energy bills today while also reducing next year’s tax bill.”

The expanded federal tax credit refunds 30 percent of the product replacement cost up to a total of $1,500. It can be used not only for HVAC systems, insulation and water heaters but also for windows and doors and insulation as long as the new products meet IRS qualifications. In some cases, installation costs may also be used to claim the tax credit.

Home energy audits can cost as little as $500, which remodelers say is an expense that pays for itself – and more – with savings from efficiency upgrades. And homeowners may be able to combine federal tax credits with local and regional incentives to maximize savings.

Here’s one example: Insulation improvements may be one of the easiest and most affordable ways to save on energy costs. Upgrading inefficient insulation (from R-19 to R-38) in the attic of a two-story, 2,000-square-foot Chicago home might cost around $1,000, but the tax credit brings that down to $700. Add that to Chicago’s MidAmerican Energy residential energy efficiency rebate program, which can return up to $600 spent on insulation or other energy-efficiency upgrades, and the cost drops to $100 – meaning a two-year payback period for the $51 estimated annual utility savings for this project.

Inspecting the ductwork, caulking and heating and cooling systems for possible upgrades or enhancements also help to provide additional energy savings, Miedema said.

Homeowners also can use the tax credit for heating and cooling components. For example, upgrading a standard 10-year-old air conditioner to today’s federal minimum 13-SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) model may cost about $5,500 in Phoenix, but does not qualify for the tax credit. Spending as little as $2,000 more for a higher-efficiency air-conditioner (such as 16-SEER) earns the homeowner the $1,500 energy-efficiency federal tax credit. Plus, the local power company provides a rebate starting at $425. With the tax credit and utility rebate, the cost difference can be paid back in a couple of years, while the homeowner may enjoy utility bills savings for years to come.

With the credit, tankless water heaters are comparable in cost to traditional gas water heaters, but last as long as 20 years and are 30 percent more efficient, according to Eugene Lamana, residential business manager at Rinnai, a manufacturer of tankless water heaters and other gas appliances based in Peachtree City, Ga. Savings depend on local energy prices, but home owners may also save with less frequent replacements. When the credit is included, homeowners can save $100 per year on their water heating expenses, he added.

“These are just some examples of how the energy-efficiency tax credit helps consumers save money in making home improvements and cutting down utility bills,” said Miedema. “Homeowners should contact a professional remodeler near them for advice on installing tax credit-qualified improvements in their home.”

Homeowners can use an energy-savings simulation from the NAHB Research Center at http://energysim.toolbase.org to determine likely costs of upgrades and savings. Information on rebates from utility companies and other state and local government incentives is available at DSIRE.

In addition to expanding the 25C tax credit, the Wind, Solar, Geothermal and Fuel Cell (25D) Tax Credit for renewable energy products now provides larger incentives for installing geothermal heat pumps, solar panels, solar water heaters, small wind energy systems and fuel cells. Although the upfront costs are high for these products, the tax credit is 30 percent and there is no cap on their cost through 2016. Taxpayers can claim the credits on IRS Form 5695.

Written by Realty Times Staff as found in Craig Lilly’s Newsletter.

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