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Hot Decorating Tips: Go From Drab to Fab With These Ideas

LillyTeam — Sun, 29 May 2011 19:49:25 +0000

Redesign that old and drab to new and fab.

Every homeowner eventually wants to make a change, but if you’re like many people you haven’t a clue where to begin. Just like fashion styles, interior designs change with the times as well. So, if you’ve been in your home for a long time and are ready to sell or are just ready for a makeover, read on to see if the hottest trends are suitable for your home.

Go ahead and slap a fresh coat of paint on the walls. But don’t make it sterile white or boring beige. At the very least use these colors along with some vibrant accent colors on a single wall or two.

“We’ve gone through an era of everything being very muted and quiet and what we see with the younger generation coming up is that we’re really going to use lots of colors. Colors on the walls, color on the furniture such as lime greens, browns, oranges and bright reds,” says Dixie Lovejoy, owner of Arizona-based Apple Interior Systems, Inc.

A little paint can make a major change to a home. It’s always a good idea to put on a fresh coat or at least touch up the paint before you place your home on the market. It gives a buyer a feeling of cleanliness and that the home has been well cared for over the years.

“Paint is a very inexpensive way to do something new and not have your house seem dated as time goes on,” adds Lovejoy.

Think big, but buy less. “People used to buy accessories on a very small scale. In our office, one of our slogans is: bigger is better,” says Lovejoy.

She says that means things like pots, statues, fountains, and flower arrangements should all be bigger. So instead of having a lot of knickknack items, you buy less but when you do, you buy big. The idea is to make a statement with your decorating rather than make your home look cluttered.

Accent pillows are a must! The key home décor ingredient that no home should be without gives new meaning to pillow talk. Lovejoy says accent pillows will get your houseguest chatting about your harmonizing décor. “Accent pillows are kind of a key to all design that ties everything together,” she says.

Bye-bye sliders. In my opinion, sliding glass doors have always been a bit of an eyesore, but so many tract homes have them. Now, Lovejoy says, sliding glass and even French doors are losing ground. The new alternative creates wide open space even in a residential tract home. Instead, doors that virtually vanish or disappear are appearing in more homes and allowing better access to the great outdoors.

“They actually can slide all the way into a pocket that’s built into a wall or stack on top of each other so it becomes one small window on the left or right side but the rest of your house is all open. There are also folding doors that do that,” says Lovejoy.

She says the typical narrow three-foot opening on sliding or French doors just isn’t suitable for what homeowners want today. “The newest trend is opening up a 12 to 22 or 30 feet of glass. It gives you almost the lanai effect like you have in Hawaii where the inside and the outside all become one,” explains Lovejoy.

Of course, this is ideal for homeowners who have big parties or events at their home. “You can just open up your house and the traffic flows inside to outside,” says Lovejoy.

Then the outside is decorated much like the inside with fireplaces, couches, chairs, coffee tables, and Lovejoy says even drapes and pictures hanging on the walls on the outside of the house. All of this makes the determining line between the outside and inside of your house disappear.

Furnish your outdoors like your indoors.

“We traditionally don’t even use regular patio furniture. We upholster couches and chairs and everything in outside fabric because it’s gotten so incredibly intricate. It’s not the old red, white, and blue fabric that we used to think of for outdoor furniture,” says Lovejoy.

Today, designers are using big patterns made from velvets and even sheer materials on outside furniture which begs the question, “how does this fabric hold up on a couch or chair?”

“We’re the toughest market there is with the weather and everything else … and we’re the dustbowl of the world out here but even the moisture that you have in the costal cities wouldn’t affect it,” says Lovejoy. Need to clean your furniture? Don’t hire a professional. Lovejoy says, “You can take a hose to it and wash off the couch or chairs or you can vacuum them just like you do inside so there’s really no difference.”

When it comes to flooring, soft is out and hard is in. “I think that we’re going away from soft surfaces on the flooring,” says Lovejoy.

Traditionally, homes have always had carpeting in the bedroom areas and maybe tile or hardwood flooring in other parts of the house. That’s changing to create a better flow between the indoor and outdoor living areas. “That way when you open up your house for entertaining, the patio or the lanai on the outside, or your sunroom, has the same surface as the house so you get that huge expanded feeling,” says Lovejoy.

Of course, area rugs are making a huge impact in the marketplace because of homeowners wanting to have some cozy, soft areas on the floor near beds, couches, and fireplaces. Even just a few changes to your home can take it from drab to fabulous with these hot trends.

Written by Phoebe Chongchua as found in Craig Lilly’s Newsletter.

Stone is a Growing Trend for Home Décor

LillyTeam — Mon, 13 Dec 2010 12:00:25 +0000

Stone Countertops

It’s as old as time, but as popular as ever. Stone is rapidly making its way into homes as perhaps one of the fastest growing decorating trends. The European Old World look brings with it not only a luxurious style but also an ease and comfort that gives a home personality.

Homeowners are leaving behind the once-preferred 70′s looks of wall-to-wall carpeting throughout the house, linoleum kitchen floors and vinyl tiles in the bathroom, and instead choosing natural stone, Versailles patterns, travertine, and limestone, with honed-matte finished surfaces. For countertops, homeowners are using two tones, finishing their kitchen island in maybe limestone and the surrounding kitchen countertops in granite materials for a unique style.

At one time granite and marble were only seen in office buildings, while rustic style stone only was used in vacation homes.

“People are trying to personalize their homes more than they did before. Before you used to go through the house and you’d do everything pretty much the same overall. Now people are bringing in different types of materials like glass tile, mosaics, different designs, different sizes, textures, into the same room. They tend to want to give each room more personality by adding different types of products,” said Giovanna Gomes, President of Stones Unlimited on Miramar Road.

What is completely losing a place in homes is the white tile countertops that was the staple in every home for decades. “White tile used to be typical when building or remodeling a house. Now we’re seeing all white ceramic tile is being replaced with solid surface countertops such as granite which has no grout lines and is easier to care for,” said Lilliana Bosforo, Director of Fabrication for Stones Unlimited.

There are many different choices, sizes, textures and styles of stone. Pricing varies depending on the type selected. Some very expensive flooring is even brought back from old chateaus and farmhouses in Europe that are scheduled for demolition. The 100 to 200-year-old stone material is brought to the US for cleaning, sanitizing, sizing and cataloging.

The chic look and durability of stone makes it appealing to homeowners. But experts caution that before it’s put in homeowners should understand the maintenance required and the issues that may come up. One of the most common problems is stains. Because stone is very porous, if you spill things on it, the stone can easily absorb the liquid. However, proper care such as sealing the stone can alleviate this problem.

Gomes also said that you should consider how much foot traffic you have in various areas of your home before putting in stone floors. “Honed surfaces are usually the best because they’re matte finishes so they don’t wear like a polished material would. A polished marble will scratch and if you drop something acidic it’ll etch which means the polish will be removed in that particular area. So there are more maintenance issues with polished surfaces,” said Gomes.

However, honed surfaces show less wear pattern. Gomes said you can also be more aggressive with your cleaning, “It’ll always look beautiful.”

For countertops Bosforo recommends granite because it is dense and easy to maintain. “You’re going to have your least amount of problems with a granite over marbles or limestone which some people do put those in their kitchens, but we let them know that there will be more maintenance with a marble or a limestone and, of course, you’d want to do it honed,” Bosforo said.

Another reason granite is recommended over marble or limestone is because acids in some foods can etch the stone and cause it to leave marks or rings on the materials.

When deciding which stone to choose, keep in mind these handy tips from Stones Unlimited:

1. Granite is most suitable for kitchens and bar counters because it is the most dense. It also resists hot and cold. Acidic foods will not etch the polish.

2. Marble is not as dense as granite but is more so than travertine. Marble works well for bathroom flooring, on back splashes and fireplaces.

3. Travertine is not as dense as marble but is more so than limestone.

4. Limestone is the softest and most porous of the stones. It requires more frequent sealing.

5. Slate is an excellent choice for outdoors or indoors.

Written by Phoebe Chongchua as found in Craig Lilly’s Newsletter.

How to Clean a Paintbrush or Roller after Painting

admin — Mon, 06 Dec 2010 12:00:36 +0000

Paint Brushes
Cleaning a paintbrush or roller after you have finished painting is one of the less enjoyable tasks in DIY. Many people now purchase very cheap paintbrushes and rollers with the intention of throwing them away instead of cleaning them. However, this supposed economy can often result in a less than perfect finish on your paintwork. Knowing how to properly clean your brushes or roller can save you money in the long run.

If you need to pause the job, but have not completely finished, then wrapping your brush or roller in a clean plastic bag is a professional trick to remember. This prevents the paint on the brush or roller from drying out and damaging the equipment. You should remove as much excess paint as possible before you place your brush or roller into the bag, and secure the plastic around the handle with an elastic band.

Once your painting job is finished however, cleaning your equipment is essential to prolong their useful life. If you are using a water-based paint, then water is the only liquid you should use to clean your equipment. Fill a bucket with cold water and use that to begin to work the paint out of the brush or roller fibers. Many people hold their equipment directly under a running tap straight away, but this uses a huge amount of water. Filling a bucket helps you remove a lot of residual paint without wasting too much water. Use your fingers to rub through the brush or roller fibers, paying attention to the ends of the bristles closest to the handle.

Disposing of the dirty water can be a problem if you are doing a lot of regular painting. If your DIY job is an occasional one however, you can safely pour the dirty water onto your garden, away from any food crops. Then you can either refill the bucket and repeat the process, or you can hold the equipment under a running cold-water tap and continue to work at the bristles or roller until the water runs clear. Squeeze the excess water from the equipment, and then leave to dry in the open air. Many brushes have a hold in the handle to enable you to suspend them from a hook while drying, to prevent the bristles from becoming misshaped.

If you are using an oil-based paint, then you will need a chemical cleaning fluid for your equipment some newspaper and some old rags. Again, remove as much excess paint from the brush as possible (an old piece of wood is useful for this). In an old jam jar, half fill with turpentine and gently start to work the bristles against the side of the jar to release the paint. This can take some time, and may require the brush to be suspended in the turpentine overnight so that the paint settles on the bottom of the jar. To do this, choose a jar that is taller than the brush is long, and use a stick or piece of dowel through the hole in the brush handle to suspend it in the turpentine without the bristles touching the bottom of the jar.

The following day, carefully remove the brush from the jar. Decant the turpentine from the paint sediment, and repeat the process. When you first remove the brush from the turpentine and paint solution, squeeze the bristles with the old rags to remove more of the paint residue. When you cannot get any more paint out of the bristles, which will probably take 2 or 3 sessions with the turpentine, you can wash the brush with warm soapy water. Then rinse thoroughly and dry suspended in the open air.

For more articles by author, go to Helium.

Brushing Up On Money-Saving Painting Tips

LillyTeam — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 12:00:39 +0000

A new federal law beginning April 2010 will require all contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in private homes, childcare facilities, and schools (built prior to 1978) to be certified in the prevention of lead contamination.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) document titled What You Need to Know About Lead Poisoning, “Despite laws established in the 1970s to make people aware of the dangers of lead and its poisonous effects, lead poisoning in children remains a common, yet preventable, environmental health problem in the United States.” Heavily-leaded paint is in about two-thirds of homes built prior to 1940 and one-half of homes built from 1940 to 1960, according to the US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). “Some homes built after 1960 also contain heavily-leaded paint.”

The CPSC recommends that any homes constructed before the 1980s be tested for lead before renovating. You can learn more about lead-based paint by visiting the EPA’s website. In this column we’ll assume you understand that if you think you have lead-based paint you need to seek expert help before any renovations. Now, we’ll tackle the fun stuff: choosing colors that have mass appeal (in case you’re selling soon), selecting quality paint, and understanding when to buy paint. For this information we turn to Gabrielle Genevich, branch manager, Sherwin Williams.

Top selling colors, still neutral for mass appeal. “We have a list of our top 50 selling colors. Most are light white or beige. Kilim beige is sort of a light tan color and most often that’s what people pick—warm colors that they can use for their entire home,” says Genevich.

Genevich says that the new design of homes is what helps to make these neutral colors so popular. “Most of the time people are looking for that one color that they can work throughout their house because so many of the houses now are open and you can see from one room to the next so they want a color that matches everything,” she says.

When it comes to selecting color for a specific room, say, the kitchen, Genevich cautions homeowners to not be too tempted by what they see in home makeover magazines. “For instance, people come in and they want a yellow kitchen and they pick out these bright lemon yellows [colors] you see in a magazine and they think it will be amazing in their house but then they get home and it looks like neon yellow. So I always tell people to go for the more muted tones. If you want a bright yellow you might try more of a gold tone, something that is a little more muted so that it doesn’t stand out so much. People want to go with big color which is great but you need to do it so that it doesn’t overpower everything else,” says Genevich.

What about paint quality? Do you really need to buy top-of-the line? Surprisingly, Genevich says no. “You don’t have to buy the best paint but buying a better paint is going to save you time and money. It’s going to save you from having to put three coats on your wall. A better paint will be fast, easy, and error- proof.” She suggests buying something in the mid-range for good coverage and value.

“If you have smoke stains on your ceiling you’ll want to repaint it but [if that's not the case] you don’t need to paint the ceiling to make your house look fresher. You can just do the walls. If you do paint the ceiling you can use a lower-cost interior flat paint,” says Genevich.

One final tip before you get started, Genevich says, “Prep work is most important because you don’t want paint on your trim, carpet, and floors. Get a good brush and roller that’s not going to leave fuzz on your walls.

When’s the best time to paint? Well, that’s pretty open if it’s an interior paint job. However, Genevich has some advice about the best times to buy paint. “Shop around holidays; that’s when all the paint stores have good sales.” She adds, “If you’re going to do a big project where you’re painting your interior house it’s going to pay to get 25 percent or 30 percent off.”

Written by Phoebe Chongchua as found in Craig Lilly’s Newsletter.

Save Money – Fix/Replace Your Leaky Faucets and Toilets

allison — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 13:49:12 +0000

Do you know that bathroom leaks cost you money? According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), toilets account for 30% of water consumption; and leaky ones waste up to 200 gallons of water a day, if left broken. Wasted water cost you money.

There are steps you can take to safeguard your money as well as conserve our water resources. The EPA’s Water Sense program educates consumers about the various conservation fixtures available on the market. All fixtures with the Water Sense label are endorsed by the EPA and are proven to effectively reduce water consumption without compromising performance.

Therefore, the same flush you’ve become accustomed to with a toilet that uses 3.5 to 7.0 gallons of water has the same impact as a Water Sense toilet that uses 1.28 gallons per flush. Other conservation steps include:

Fixing leaky faucet or toilet

Testing your fixtures for leaks (For your toilet – drop a little food coloring into the tank. If the color shows in the bowl without flushing, you have a leak)

Turning off the bathroom faucet while brushing your teeth can save you up to 8 gallons of water a day

To learn more about the EPA’s Water Sense program, visit WaterSense .

How to Make Frilled Cushion Covers

JPeel — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 12:00:52 +0000

Give square or round cushion covers a more luxurious look with the addition of a double frill, gathered and sewn between the front and back panels. The softening effect of frills give cushions an extra plump look and makes the seat an altogether more inviting proposition.

A frilled cushion cover is distinctly feminine, and adds a softening touch to a room.

The choice of fabrics affects the look of the cushion. A cover made in a crisp stripe with a striped frill has a restrained charm, while a rose-strewn chintz cover with a contrasting or lacy fill, and suggests pure frivolity and romance.

The easiest method of adding a frill to a cushion cover is to use a double frill, so called because it is made with a folding strip of fabric that looks the same on both sides. This type of frill gives the cushion a lovely plump appearance and a very neat finish, with the fold forming the outer edge and the raw edges enclosed in the seam.

Adding piping between the frill and the cushion gives definition to its shape.
For an extremely lavish finish, make two frills of slightly different depths in coordinating fabrics and layer them together.

To make square frilled cushion covers you will need:
Furnishing fabric
Square cushion pad
Tape measure
Sewing thread

1. Cutting out the cover: Measure the sides of the cushion pad. For the front panel, cut one piece of fabric to these measurements plus 5/8 inch (1.5cm) seam allowance all round. For the back panels, cut two rectangles of fabric the length of one side of the cushion pad, plus 1 inches (3cm), by half the adjacent side, plus 4 inches (10cm).

2. Cutting out the frill: Measure all round the cushion pad and double the measurement. Cut strips across the width of the fabric so that when joined they make up this length, by 8 inches (20cm) wide. For a fuller or deeper frill, add to the length or the width of the strip respectively.

3. Preparing the frill: Right sides together, join the frill strips into a circle. Press the seams open. With the wrong sides together, fold the fabric in half lengthways and pin raw edges together. Divide the frill in four and mark with pins.

4. Stitching the gathering: Run two rows of gathering stitches inch (1.2cm) and inch (2cm) in from the raw edges of the frill. Stop and start the stitching half way between the pin marks. This makes it easier for gathering up.

5. Attaching the frill: With the right sides together and raw edges even, pin the frill round the edge of the front cover panel, matching the section marks to the corners. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Adjust the gathers so that they are even, allowing extra fabric at the corners.

6. Attaching the cushion back: On one long edge of each back panel turn under and machine stitch a 5/8 inch (1.5cm) double hem. With the right sides together and the raw edges even, place the two back panels on the front cover panel so that the hemmed edges overlap. Pin, tack and machine stitch a 5/8 inch (1.5cm) seam all round the outer edge, through all layers.

7. Finishing the cushion: Trim the seams and clip the corners to reduce bulk and turn the cover to the right side. Insert the cushion pad and hand stitch circles of Velcro fastening between the back panels of the cushion cover. This will allow for easier removal for washing.

To make round frilled cushion covers
1. For the cushion cover, cut one circle of fabric the size of the cushion pad plus a 5/8 inch (1.5cm) seam allowance all round. Use this circle as a template for cutting the two back panels as follows.

Fold the circle in half and then ease open folded edge to add an extra 4 inches (10cm) from the straight edge. Cut two pieces of fabric to this size, taking car to match directional patterns.

2. For positioning marks, fold the front circle of fabric into quarters and mark the edge of each fold with a pin.

3. To make up the round cover, follow steps 2-7 of square frilled cushion cover. When joining the frill to the front cover panel, match the sections at pin marks.

Unusual Ways to Cover Ugly Walls in Your Home

ZoeMack — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 12:00:37 +0000

At some point in our wall-enriched lives, most of us have had to deal with a particularly ugly wall. Whether it was covered in peeling paint, wallpapered with a turquoise and pink pattern only the truly artistic or insane would appreciate, or riddled with cracks, ugly walls are bound to rear their ugly head from time to time. What can you, the lover of beautiful walls, do about this?

1. Repaint.
Of course, this only works if your otherwise beautiful wall has been painted to resemble the murky depths of a stagnant pond, or a mural of the French Riviera that went horribly wrong. Repainting assumes that, underneath a few ugly color choices, your wall is not inherently ugly. If this is the case, get a good primer and a pleasing shade of whatever color makes you happy, and go at that ugly wall. You can also paint over dated paneling, those fake ceramic tile boards, and wood, as long as you use a good quality primer made for the purpose. Some primers even claim to adhere well to ceramic tile itself.

2. Hide it behind fabric.
Similar to sweeping your pile of dirty clothes under the bed, you can stick that ugly wall behind something pleasant to look at, and no one will be the wiser. Tapestries are a good choice; no longer are they just for castles or hippies, but come in a wide variety of styles and colors. Quilts are another good way to cover up an ugly wall. Draperies, hung from ceiling to floor, can be used to cover up the wall. Theoretically, you could hang fabric over all the walls in a room; as long as your fabric was not too dark, the effect would be pleasing. Practically, though, this might make finding light switches and outlets difficult.

3. Repaper.
Depending on the condition of your wall, fresh wallpaper might be able to save it. If your wall is not smooth and flat, most wallpaper will be difficult to properly install, but there is a very heavy type of paintable wallpaper that is designed to cover up cracks and minor imperfections. This paper is available in simple textures, as well as more intricate patterns that can help to hide particularly uneven walls. After you apply it, you can paint it the same color as the rest of the room, which will help your ugly wall to blend in seamlessly with its surroundings. Just make sure to remove all loose or peeling material from the wall before applying, or your new wallpaper will also start to peel.

4. Hide it behind enormous furniture.
While a gigantic dresser might be difficult to obtain, there is plenty of floor to ceiling shelving available. Instead of your ugly wall, you could be surrounded by floor to ceiling books, collectible plates, antique dolls, or your great grandfather’s prized collection of seven hundred porcelain elephants.

5. Posters.
We are not talking about your old college dorm, “101 Ways to Cure a Hangover” posters stuck in the wall with four mismatched thumbtacks. A group of posters, framed in cheap plexiglass frames and hung close together in a group, can be a great way to cover up an ugly wall and add some visual interest to a room. Posters that would have historically been posted on city walls or fences work best grouped so closely together: band posters, old advertisements, old movie posters, and theater bills all work well. Make sure the colors of the posters compliment each other and the room itself.

6. Work with the ugliness.
Hey, sometimes ugly can be cool. Just look at those interior decorators who spend hours making it look as though the plaster is crumbling off the wooden lath or brick beneath. And there you were, complaining that your plaster walls were showing the brick. Okay, maybe most of our ugly walls involve damaged drywall and peeling wallpaper, which are significantly less sexy than exposed brick. But you can still see if there is a way you can embrace the ugliness. Maybe stripes of paint or large flower shapes can make that plaid wallpaper attractive again. Maybe not, but it can be fun to find out. If your wall is horrifically ugly to begin with, what could you possibly do to make it worse?

7. Hang stuff on the wall.
Put up a bunch of wall hooks (assuming your wall is stable enough to accept hooks), and hang your coats, your hat collection, or a bunch of sparkly vintage dresses on the wall. Or put a few small shelves up and put some wildly trailing plants on them. Wall mirrors, old photos, framed flowers, your father’s collection of antique road signs; they can all cover up your ugly wall. Of course, now your room feels ten foot square and you are so overwhelmed by all the visual clutter that you want to cry, but at least you can’t see the wall behind all that stuff!

8. More joint compound!
If your walls are strong and stable, but suffer from someone’s attempt to create a stucco texture that does nothing but collect dust and scrape your elbows when you walk down the hallway, try scraping off the highest points and smoothing joint compound over the rest. You won’t end up with perfectly smooth walls, but you should be able to improve the texture significantly. Instead of sanding the walls when you are done, a slightly damp sponge can be used to smooth it out, creating much less mess.

If all else fails, there is always the sledgehammer and a trip to the home improvement store for new sheetrock. In most cases, though, you can make your walls a lot more attractive without resorting to wall-directed violence. And remember: a wall doesn’t have to be perfect to be beautiful.

How to Work with Interior Wall Trim and Molding

JPeel — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 12:00:00 +0000

Whether in kit or strip form, decorative molding provides a trouble-free way to revamp a door or walls, or add a final touch of style to other surfaces around the home.

Walk into most DIY or large hardware stores and you find a wonderful array of attractive strip molding. Simple to apply, wooden moldings can transform an uninteresting door, plain wall or inexpensive piece of furniture into something really special.

Molding for paneling standard-sized doors is also available in kit form. The pre-formed panels come in a choice of sizes and styles, for example, Georgian or Victoria. All you have to do is attach the pre-assemble panels to the door with self-adhesive fixing tape of pins and glue.

Look out for small panel kits too; the panels can be used singly, in pairs or in groups to create a paneled effect on interior walls, bath surrounds, kitchen units and cupboards. You can also find panel kits with curved top sections which look very stylish.

Add molding as an attractive trim to shelf edges, or make up your own creative finishing touches for plain wooden furniture, fireplace surrounds or stair strings. You can add character and interest to featureless surfaces such as flush modern doors or built-in wardrobes.

Strip moldings in a variety of widths and shapes are sold mainly by the meter, though hardwoods are usually available in pre-cut lengths. Various types of wood are used; the most common and the least expensive is pine, which is ideal for a painted finish.

Most moldings are left unfinished, giving you the choice of varnishing, staining or painting them. If you are going to paint them, any knots in the wood must be treated with knotting, availing from hardware stores. It is easier to pain or stain the molding before it is fixed in place, unless you are giving it the same treatment as the surrounding surface.

You can attach strip molding in one of three ways, depending on its size, weight and the surface to which it is being fixed.

Contact adhesive on its own is adequate for fixing short lengths of thin strip molding or where using pins or nails may be difficult, for example, on hollow hardboard covered doors. The bond is instant, so make sure you position accurately.

A pinning and gluing method is usually best for fixing molding to woodwork. Use PVA woodworking adhesive and panel pins, which won’t show when in place. Choose pins that are twice as long and the molding is thick. Position the pins over the thinnest part of the molding and use a nail punch to drive in the heads below the surface. Put the punch over the pin head and strike the punch lightly with a hammer.

Hardened steel wall pins or oval masonry nails are best for fixing molding to solid walls. On hollow walls, nail into the studs (the framework within the hollow wall); knock on the wall and listen for a less hollow tone to find the stud.

To prevent splits in the wood when hammering in pins or nails, start the hole with a bradawl.

If you’d like to do a lot of paneling, or you can’t find a kit in the panel size you want, making your own panels from decorative moldings is a simple and satisfying task. For the best effects on a wall, fix the top strip of a large panel at picture rail height and the lower strip at dado rail height (about waist height).

The key to professional looking paneling is mitering the strips to a neat 45 degree angle to make the corners. To help you do this, use a miter box which is especially designed for this purpose; it has pre-cut angled slots in its sides which guide the saw, ensuring that you get a perfectly angled cut. If your first attempts are less than perfect, you can always fill any gaps with wood filler.

You will need:
Metal rule
Large sheet of paper
Pencil, scissors, masking tape
Plumb line and spirit level
Strip molding
Miter box and tenon saw
Flat piece of scrap wood
Sandpaper
Paint or other finish for molding
Fixing materials

1. Marking the position. Draw the precise panel shape you want on to paper. Cut out and tape it in place, using a plumb line and spirit level for accurate positioning. Stand back to gauge the effect before marking the position.

2. Calculating amounts. Measure all round the panel shape and add extra for wastage. If you are buying molding in pre-cut lengths, check that the joins will not occur in the middle of a panel piece. If necessary buy extra.

3. Measuring and marking. Measure one side of the panel and mark measurements on to the external edges of molding. Anchor miter box on a flat surface and lay scrap wood in the base. Put the molding flat side down on the scrap wood, lining up the mark with one of the slots in the miter box, making sure that the cut is angled in the right direction.

4. Cutting the first miter. Line up marking against the right hand slot of the miter box. With the molding held securely in place, saw firmly through the molding into the scrap wood beneath.

5. Cutting the second miter. Line up the marking against the left hand slot on the miter box and saw cleanly.

6. Making up the panel. Paint, stain or varnish the panel and leave to dry. Butting mitered corners closely, fix molding in place. If necessary use a little wood filler at corners.

If you don’t have a miter box and still want to put up a decorative panel made for strips of molding, look in hardware stores for decorative wooden blocks. Position the blocks at the corners, and butt the straight-cut lengths of molding against the edges. Look out for decorative carved molding to compliment the corner blocks.

Tips for Taking Down a Wall

StructuralSupport — Mon, 11 May 2009 15:39:30 +0000

Homeowners increasingly seek to open up floor space by removing interior walls. Before any interior wall is removed, it is essential to determine if the wall supports floor, ceiling or even roof framing. Such “bearing” walls can be removed only if some alternate method of support is provided for the framing above.

For a relatively new house, building plans (if available) may show interior bearing walls. However, as-built framing construction should always be verified visually before a wall is removed.

For many existing houses with rectangular floor plans, interior bearing walls can often be located by visual inspection. Tools such as stud-finders may be useful to obtain more information about direction of floor joists. However, ceiling finish must usually be removed to determine with certainty if an interior wall is in fact a bearing wall.

For older houses, built before 1950, and for houses with irregular floor plans, ceiling finish should always be removed to verify bearing wall conditions.

A bearing wall supports other parts (elements) of the house.Floor joists (such as 2x8s or 2x10s) or roof framing members (rafters or joists) are perpendicular to the bearing wall and are on top of (bear on) the wall.

For the vast majority of houses built since 1950, a ceiling is up against (attached to) the bottom edges of floor joists, even though some may describe the joists as ceiling joists. For older houses, separate ceiling joists are sometimes found (below floor joists).

Exterior walls that support floor joists (including attic floor joists) are bearing walls. However, even if an exterior wall does not support floor joists, it can still be a bearing wall if it supports roof framing (rafters or joists). Identification of such condition requires careful evaluation when floor joists and roof rafters run in opposite directions for a two-story house. The exterior wall below the second floor is a bearing wall if the rafters are perpendicular to the wall, even if second floor joists are parallel to the wall.

Installation of a “header beam” or “floor beam” is required to support floor or roof framing when a bearing wall is to be removed. For a short header (up to about 4 feet), double 2x10s or 2x12s are usually adequate. However, for a longer floor beam, proper design is essential to ensure safety and to minimize movement.

Accurate information about upper framing to be supported must be obtained to allow for proper design of a new header or floor beam.

Evaluation of vertical deflection limit is an important aspect of design that is often overlooked. Limiting deflection is critical when ceramic tile floor finish or other movement sensitive elements must be supported by the new beam.

Manufactured wood such as Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL) and Parallel Strand Lumber (PSL) are often the most cost effective type of beam. LVL and PSL beams can be “built-up” using multiple pieces, allowing for easy installation. However, the separate pieces must be connected together to act as one unified beam, especially if the beam must support concentrated load from another floor beam.

For long beams (15 feet or more), and especially when deflection is critical, steel beams are often necessary. Design to minimize weight becomes important.

Support at ends of a new floor beam must be provided by columns (posts), which can usually be “built-up” using multiple 2×4 studs nailed together. Careful evaluation of how each column must be supported below is essential. Lower floor framing may have to be reinforced to provide adequate support.

In some cases, especially for long floor beams, new steel columns and footings must be installed in a basement to provide adequate support for a column that will support one end of a new floor beam.

Floor beams can be installed under floor framing. However, when protrusion below a ceiling is not desired, a “flush” beam must be installed. Design and construction of a flush beam is more complex and costly since floor joists must be cut back to allow for installation of the beam. To match depth (height) of existing floor joists, a heavier floor beam is often required (compared to low beam under floor joists).

For any beam that is over 5 feet, and especially when relatively heavy loads must be supported, drawings should be prepared to show requirements. Consultation with a qualified professional engineer (licensed in your state) is highly recommended.

Before removing a bearing wall, temporary support (shoring) must be installed to support floor or roof framing that is currently supported by the bearing wall. Temporary shoring typically consists of a wood-stud wall, on each side of the bearing wall. Top of the temporary wall must be tight against wood framing members (not ceiling finish that can crush).

Although a qualified contractor can often install temporary shoring without engineered design, consideration should be given to effects on lower floor framing, due to shifting of loads from the bearing wall (to be removed) to the temporary support walls.

For more articles by this author, please go to Helium.com

John F Mann, PE
Structural Support
1212 Main Street, Suite 2
Belmar NJ 07719
732-556-6080
jmann77@optonline.net

Seller’s Home Appeal for Today’s Market

LillyTeam — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 12:00:40 +0000

After years of hearing from successful sellers that they didn’t have to do a thing to sell, they now need to understand how they can stand out from their competition.

Here is a handy list to help sellers determine if some features in their home might need some attention.

Test all door and cabinet knobs. Replace mismatched or inexpensive hardware for a quick update. Buyers rarely can get beyond a knob that comes off in their hand as they attempt to use a door.

Take the time to paint walls, trim and ceilings. Keep adjoining rooms in one color palette, which will make your home appear larger. Clean up spills from messy painters. Hire professionals to paint mullions on windows and staircase spindles.

Slipcover mismatched furniture in a room that requires visual unification.

Discover ways to organize day-to-day room needs. Substantial wicker baskets or square stainless steel or brass containers can organize magazines, remote controls and toys. Books provide a good look, but vary them by laying some down and standing some up.

Wallpaper is considered fill-in-the-blank decorating. No two people have the same taste in this instant decorator wannabee. If it’s more than three years old, take it down and paint in a neutral color. And wallpaper borders are out.

Simple furniture rearrangement can bring new life to a tired space. Float sofas and coffee tables away from walls for a designer look.

Use area rugs to anchor furniture groupings on bare tile and wood floors. Place groupings of candles and clear glass bowls filled with natural potpourri, fresh fruit or glass crystals on side and coffee tables.

Make sure there is balanced lighting in every room for dusk and evening showings. Dimmers help set the right tone.

Polish and wax hardwood floors to brighten and blend an old finish.

Clean every surface until it shimmers and shines. Clean can seal a deal. Don’t forget the windows.

Purchase the best quality carpet pad which can make any new carpeting “cushy,” and home buyers love cushy. Stay away from shag styles; buyers know it won’t be around long in style cycles.

Streamline window fashions. Heavy drapes are in the minority. Think “let the light shine in” when placing blinds and shades. Light and bright can overcome other issues with a home.

Freshen-up closets with closet organizers to maximize storage space and paint a neutral, washable color. Make sure buyers can see the back of all closets and cupboards. Lighting is an often overlooked feature in closets, but buyers will always turn on lights when viewing a closet, big or small.

Thinning closets, cabinets, basements, attics and garages will also help your storage spaces look larger. If you can’t part with items, rent a storage locker to hold items for decision making later.

Don’t forget the basement; dark, dirty and musty basements are a turn-off to buyers. Add extra lighting, paint the floor and vacuum out all the cobwebs. Organize storage areas and take the time to clean the washing machine and dryer. To spruce up the hot water heater and furnace, wipe down with a strong cleaner. Scrub the laundry tub and sweep left-over leaves out of exterior stairs and window wells. Run a dehumidifier to reduce basement moisture.

Take a good look from the street or road at the front of your home. Look for shrubs that are overgrown or dead and remove and replace them with shrubs or plants that are to scaled to your home. Small inexpensive bushes send the wrong message.

Limit yard ornaments to a favored few. Excess ornaments can make yards look busy and buyers might want them included in a purchase contract.

Paint and refresh yard lights, flagpoles, mailboxes, window boxes, fences and trellis. Don’t forget the swing set or play equipment.

Replace broken bricks on terraces, cracked concrete patios and steps.

Restore screens on porches and lanai’s. Dirty, rusty and ripped screens limit functionality to homebuyers.

Don’t leave pets unattended for property showings, especially if you think they could be aggressive or territorial around strangers.

Have carpets and area rugs cleaned before showing your home to potential buyers. Those allergic to animal dander and hair, even if they can’t see your pet will know when their eyes and nose start to alert them to an allergic reaction. Many will not purchase a home that poses strong allergy issues.

A barking dog or overly-friendly cats can kill a showing. Be pro-active and take your pets off site for showings. Hire a dog walker to occupy pets if you can’t be home.

Written by Mark Nash as found in Craig Lilly’s newsletter at http://www.lillyteam.com