swimming pool

Follow these steps to ensure proper pool maintenance and an enjoyable summer.

1. Remove, clean and store pool cover with cover cleaner deodorizer and perform housekeeping chores such as brushing, vacuuming. The Pool Buster is a easy way to start the vacuuming & cleaning process. Empty the skimmer baskets of dirt and debris.

2. Water level should always be approximately half way up the skimmer opening. If you need to add water use a Hayward Bobby Disposable Filter for fill hose to take out any metal in the water.

3. Prepare equipment, following manufacturer’s recommendations.

4. Balance water by taking 1 quart of pool water to your professional swimming pool water-testing dealer for a complete water analysis. Make sure to have the CHLORINE STABILIZER checked. Follow the dealer’s instructions for balancing the water.

5. Remove organic waste with 1 lb. of shock per 10,000 gallons. Note: shock should be pre-dissolved in a clean plastic bottle of water at a ratio of no more than 1 lb. per 1 gallon of water. Slowly pour into pool around edges.

6. Prevent algae by adding an initial dose of Algae preventative, 1 quart per 25,000 gallons

7. Continuous disinfection. Regular sanitation consists of using Chlorinating 1″ or 3″ tablets in your automatic chlorinator. AT ALL TIMES, maintain a free chlorine level of at least 1.0 ppm, to continuously kill bacteria.

Use Software
An original vision can look different – sometimes unsightly – once it’s finally finished. That’s where landscape design software comes in. This lets users upload photos or build virtual replicas of their house and yard, then create a preview of the changes soon to take place outside. These programs save homeowners and professionals alike from disaster.

Be Picky about Plants
Choose items that have already proven useful and gorgeous. Certain staples have become popular over the years. Of course, trees and shrubs are two of them. Planting coniferous trees and shrubs will guarantee year-round beauty. The inclusion of deciduous trees will spice things up by adding color and diversity. To help sunlight reach every plant, the tallest should be planted northernmost, and the shortest should be planted southernmost.

Shop at Nurseries
Quality trees and plants can be purchased at nurseries, and though they cost less elsewhere, the savings are not worth the trouble. Annuals and perennials can also be found at nurseries, and if a flowerbed is part of the landscape plan, having both is crucial for continuity and extra color. Having an equal amount of rows throughout the entire landscape will create unity.

Invest in Hardscape
Hardscape items create beauty in winter, when so many other additions have already withered away. An elegant landscape lighting design will help add security and property value to a home. A low-voltage landscape lighting design (12 volts) seems to be the most obvious choice. Other options include waterfalls and fountains, which can be especially costly, but their soothing sounds and aesthetic appeal are worth the going rate. For a finishing touch, a fence gives most landscapes a completed look.

Choose the Worker Bee
Do-it-yourself landscape design works for those willing to spend ample time learning and laboring. It’s also much more cost-efficient than employing an expert. Anyone interested can join a landscape design program at certain schools or online, but those who don’t have the necessary patience or stamina for this kind of project should forgo the training and hire a professional.

For more articles by this author, go to Helium.

Preparation
You’ll need a bit of earth in full sun, about 10 feet by 10 feet. In garden that size you can grow two tomato plants, two pepper plants, onions, cilantro, and garlic. To prepare your garden, dig the soil to a depth of 8 or 10 inches. Add a couple of bags of compost, dig it in, and rake the soil smooth. Make a path down the middle from north to south.

Planting
Garlic is planted in the fall. To plant, break the bulb into separate cloves and plant the cloves separately along the west and east sides of your patch. Harvest in late summer.

Tomato plants should be planted in early summer, well after the last predicted frost date. Buy an early and a late variety for summer-long harvest. Place the plants at the north end of your patch on either side of the path, and support them with sturdy tomato cages.

For peppers, you can choose anything from fiery habaneros to sweet and mild “Fooled You.” Pepper plants should be planted at the same time as tomatoes. Place them in front of the tomato plants so they get full sun.

Onions can be grown from seeds or from sets. Seeds should be planted very early in the spring, after the soil thaws. Sets can be planted a little later. Plant several short rows in front of the peppers.

Sow cilantro seed on finely-raked soil at the south end of the garden, in front of your onions, after the last frost date.

Care
Water deeply, making sure you soak the soil to a depth of several inches. Water again when the soil is dry down to about an inch below the soil surface. To conserve water and smother weeds, mulch with several inches of chopped leaves or straw. Keep the weeds pulled so they don’t compete with your plants. The compost you dug into the garden bed will provide plenty of nutrition for most of the season, but tomatoes and peppers will benefit if you dig a little organic fertilizer into the soil halfway through the growing season.

Salsa Time!
Once your tomatoes and peppers begin producing, you should have early onions, garlic, and cilantro ready for harvest. Here’s one recipe for turning your produce into fresh, delicious salsa:

3 cloves of garlic, minced
3 tablespoons chopped onion
3 medium or 2 large tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 peppers, finely chopped
2 tablespoons cilantro, minced
2 tablespoons lime juice
Salt and pepper to taste

Mix the ingredients in a glass or ceramic bowl. Refrigerate several hours before serving to allow the flavors to blend.

Article courtesy of Contractor Source.

Outside the home, an outdoor living space has become a necessary extension of indoor living space. Renovating the yard from lawn to paved party area expands entertainment space. Fire pits make outdoor entertaining in the colder months possible, and outdoor kitchens and bars bring the functionality of the house out into the yard. The addition of pools, hot tubs, and saunas multiplies the activity options available and creates a sanctuary of life and rejuvenation.

Outdoor entrances are receiving more attention these days. Gone are the old concrete sidewalk paths. New stone pavers lead visitors to entrances that have been updated with stonework, columns, and covered porticoes. Upgrades to front exterior spaces can add curb appeal and value and set the home apart from the competition.

Indoors, kitchens are still the heart of the home and rank high on most renovation lists. New kitchens are designed with entertaining in mind. The kitchen space is traditionally the greatest energy consumer and waste producer in the home. New high-efficiency appliances dramatically reduce energy usage in the kitchen. Built-in composters turn food scraps into useful fertilizer for gardens or houseplants.

In keeping with the trends toward greener living, many updated finish choices are also available. These can range from expensive stone and granite to synthetic materials that offer the look and durability of stone at a fraction of the price. Wood finishes have also changed.

Many older building materials, such as medium-density fibreboard (MDF) or pressboard, can give off harmful chemicals. Recycled or sustainable woods with eco-friendly finishes and nontoxic paints have become popular choices.

Master bedrooms and baths have changed from utilitarian spaces to private getaways. No longer a place to just wash up, the master bath can be upgraded with luxuries like doorless showers with multiple shower heads, spa tubs, heated flooring, and other spa-like comforts. Tankless water heaters offer a continuous supply of hot water for quiet baths or long, hot showers, as well as dramatic energy cost savings.

The Internet, wireless communications, and other advancing computer technologies have freed many people from having to go into the office every day. Dedicated home office suites provide both the necessary separation from home life that is required for productivity and a stress-free commute.

Living/family rooms have evolved into flexible entertainment areas that do more than provide a place to sit and watch TV. As the interactivity levels of video-game systems increases, more space is needed to jump, run, ski, and exercise.

Let your home-improvement specialist help you update your space.

Expansive Cracking
Common in large structures, expansive or “thermal” cracking is an issue. Temperature differences between concrete surfaces and interior can cause frequent expansion and contraction of those areas which will result in cracking from the stresses. Huge temperature differences can cause some pretty significant cracks, so contractors prepare for this by the use of internal reinforcements and strategic placement of expansion joints to allow some movement. When necessary, cracks of this type can usually be repaired with a specially designed repair product like epoxy. Similar are the cracks that occur in climates with freeze-thaw cycles. When the ground surface freezes, it expands and can cause heaving of whatever is on top of it, usually your driveway, sidewalk, etc. Again, in addition to proper use of interior reinforcements and strategic joints, contractors also have to prepare the surface on which the concrete is going to be poured to best alleviate the effects of heaving. This may include but is not limited to several inches of packed stone.

Shrinkage Cracking
Extremely common in most concrete is “shrinkage” cracking which occurs during the curing (drying) process. Cement uses water as part of a chemical reaction causing it to harden. Excess water actually dries and like many items, concrete can shrink as the excess moisture disappears. Since the surface usually dries faster, it shrinks more than the rest. The shrinking can cause stress, with enough stress, cracks can appear. These tend to be purely aesthetic and many contractors will assure customers that they will do all they can to prevent them; if they do happen, do not worry about serious problems. One form of crack prevention comes in the form of control joints. They serve two purposes. They provide start and stop points for the shrinking and provide a slightly weaker point in the concrete which will induce cracks as needed from expansive stresses. Other prevention measures are careful control of the water content of the concrete mix. Excess water is bad, but often happens because it makes the concrete easier to work with. Dry concrete just does not go down well, so water content often ends up somewhere in the middle. This excess water can also contribute to “spalling” which is the small divots and flaking you find on a concrete surface. In addition to water, simply making sure the concrete mix is designed for the job is also important. Subtle differences in the mix design will allow it to be used more easily for the job at hand such as the inclusion of air, set retarders, accelerators, fibers, etc.

Regardless of preventive measures, Mother Nature is a tough opponent and will often come out winning. As a customer, you may now understand why even the most experienced contractor avoids warranties against cracking. As a contractor, making that guarantee is sort of like a die hard Cubs fan guaranteeing a World Series victory. Despite all the off-season preparation, come fall you are going to be let down.

Remember, if both parties involved have a good understanding of the nature of concrete and why the unexpected may occur, it will help alleviate some of the stress if it becomes an issue.

Article by Don Ciesielski and courtesy of Contractor Source.

Set aside several hours for this job. It will require some careful measuring. You will have to run extra wiring if it is not a replacement. Make an afternoon of it and invite a couple of friends to help. Buy the opener a week or so ahead of time so that you can have all of the supplies and tools on hand when you start the installation.

Like any DIY project, you always want to open the box and inventory the contents to familiarize yourself with the garage door opener. This will also give you an opportunity to make sure that nothing is missing. Read through the directions to make sure that you understand any special problems that your new toy may bring. This will almost always result in a trip to the home center to buy an extra tool and some other needed products to make the installation work.

When doing a replacement, take the time to learn how the old unit was installed. This will give you a head start on installing the new one. Plus, it will give you a chance to see if all of the old wiring will work with the new unit.

Once you have everything in place, you are ready to start the installation. For a new installation make sure that you have identified a source for power to the unit if you are not doing a replacement. Turn off the power and run any necessary wiring. It is good if you can find electricity in the attic above the opener without having to run wire from the breaker box. Use wire nuts and junction boxes when appropriate. With wires at the installation point of the motor, you are ready to attach the garage door opener to the ceiling or trusses of the garage.

This may require an extra board or two be put into place to give you something solid to anchor the opener. These units can be pretty heavy. So, make sure that you have done a good job of providing a secure place to attach it. Point the business end of the garage door opener toward your garage door. The position should be roughly in line with the center of the garage door.

If you are not sure about precisely where this should be, measure the door. Divide that amount in half. On the ceiling above the garage door mark a light line to guide you. If necessary, sketch these lines the entire distance from the door to the position that the opener will occupy. Bolt or screw the garage door opener into place. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for clearances and type of fasteners to use.

Attach the portion of the opener that extends from the motor to the garage door. It may be belt, chain, or screw driven. Fasten the bracket to the door. Make sure that the door is strong enough to withstand the pull of the opener without separating. If it cannot, you will need to brace it with wood or metal depending on what is suggested by the door and opener manufacturers.

Once all attachments have been made, go back over the entire mechanism and tighten up all bolts and screws securely. Run the wiring to the electric sensors and switch or switches and install them. There should be sensors near the floor on either side of the inside of the door to keep the operation from shutting if something or someone is in the way. Test the manual release a time or two to make sure that it works. You will need this if you do not have a backup power source.

Open and close the door several times with the wall switch or switches and the remotes. Test the safety stops with some small objects to make sure they work. It is probably time for lunch or supper. So, go treat yourself to a reward for taking care of this tough job.

Written by Allen Teal. For more articles by this author, go to Helium.

Most people prefer to make use of salt to de-ice their driveway. Salt, or sodium chloride as it is also known, has been used for many years, and is often just sprinkled over the driveway to remove ice. There is though a cost involved, despite it being one of the cheapest options. Salt will work fairly fast in removing ice, but can cause damage to the driveway, as well as to the metal of any car that drives over it. Additionally salt will harm plants as it prevents them absorbing nutrients and moisture. Salt will only work when the temperature is in excess of 18 degrees Fahrenheit.

There are other chemicals available which will do a similar job to salt. Of these others the most common are Potassium Chloride, though this will also harm plants and is slower working that salt. Additionally Potassium Chloride only works when the temperature is above 25 degrees Fahrenheit.

Faster working is Calcium Chloride and Magnesium Chloride. Calcium Chloride will harm concrete and plants alike, whilst Magnesium Chloride will also harm plant life. All of the chemicals do remove ice from driveways, but there is a cost often to the driveway and the environment, and ice can reform fairly quickly if temperatures continue to rise and fall.

The old methods are still the best and shoveling snow and ice is the best for the environment and the driveway surface. If thick ice has been allowed to build u,p then a shovel is not the best tool to break it up. Many stores now sell ice chippers, tools which will break up ice, allowing them to be shoveled away. Care needs to be taken when using shovels and ice chippers, as too much force could see the driveway damaged.

Having cleared away the ice, then it is best to add some sand to the driveway. Sand itself will not do anything to the ice but will aide traction for both cars and pedestrians.

Removing ice from driveways is a chore but it is a necessity come wintertime. There are a number of options available to remove the build-up of ice but there is a price with each.

Written by Tim Harry. Find more articles by this author at Helium.

Here are some indications:
There are damaged sections that need repair.

Existing siding requires excessive maintenance.

Your home needs additional insulation (certain rooms in your home are too warm or too cold or you have areas of blistering wallpaper or peeling paint). New siding can increase the insulating ability, or R-value, of your home.

Existing siding has dry rot, insect damage, staining, shows uneven weathering, buckling, or decay.

If you decide to replace your home’s exterior, there are a number of things to consider. What look do you want? Do you want your home to stand out or blend in? What’s your budget? How long will you live in your home? What type of climate do you live in? Here’s an overview of the most popular choices:

Vinyl
Vinyl siding is manufactured in a variety of styles and colors and never requires painting. Vinyl is an economical choice with low maintenance and a long life. Vinyl resists insects and doesn’t fade, crack, chip, blister, or flake. Vinyl, by itself, is not a good insulator, so it must be installed over insulating material or look for insulated vinyl siding products.

Wood
Solid wood siding remains popular although it’s a more expensive option. Wood requires ongoing maintenance—sealing, staining, and repainting to prevent water damage, sun damage, and rot. Engineered wood products offer a similar look at a lower cost and with less maintenance. Plus, engineered wood products can be cut and installed quicker and cheaper than wood and can be treated to resist mildew and deterioration.

Fiber-cement
Made of cement, ground sand, and wood fibers, fiber-cement siding provides the look and feel of wood at a much lower cost.
Fiber-cement siding is durable and requires less maintenance. It’s fire and insect proof and doesn’t warp. Fiber-cement resists heat and cold well, so it’s energy efficient.

Stucco
Stucco is a good choice for Spanish, Italian, or Mission-style homes. Stucco is durable and provides good insulation but can crack from poor workmanship or weather. Cracks must be patched to prevent water damage, and the surface requires routine painting. Stucco is normally more expensive to install.

Masonry
Masonry siding using real or manufactured brick or stone is the most expensive option. The look of brick or stone can be replicated with some newer products, or brick or stone siding can be used as an accent to emphasize an architectural feature.

Your home improvement professional can help you determine what’s right for you. Properly installed siding can add insulation, protection from the elements, style, and value to your home.

Inspect your roof periodically from the outside. Don’t walk up on the roof; you can do more damage that way. Get a pair of binoculars and look for any of the following problems:
Blistered, curled, or split shingles.

Loose, broken, or missing shingles or tiles.

Loose or exposed nails.

Dark patches on asphalt shingles or large amounts of granules in the rain gutters (this indicates advanced wear).

Sagging on the ridges or in the center of the roof.

Rusty or corroded metal flashing.

For flat roofs, look for blisters, depressions near vent pipes, separations in the flashing, and clogged drains.

Also inspect your roof from your attic. Check for the following problems:
Sagging decking between the rafters.

Outside light that can be seen through the roof (check with a roofing professional—this may not signal a problem in all types of roofs).

Signs of leaking in the attic (dark spots in the wood, especially around vents, chimneys, and other holes to the roof). Test dark spots with a screwdriver to see if they are old or new problems. The spot will be wet or soft if it is a current problem. Wet spots may not be directly under the actual leak; water travels to the lowest point before dripping. Bacteria, fungi, and mold can begin to grow within 24 to 48 hours.

Signs of leaks (usually in the form of water stains or sagging ceilings)—these may be caused by an active leak in the roof or by condensation resulting from poor roof ventilation.

If you have wooden shakes, look for damage from termites, carpenter ants, and other wood-boring pests.

If you notice problems, don’t assume that you’ll need to start all over with a brand new roof. If your roof was properly installed and is less than 15 to 20 years old, it can often be repaired rather than replaced.

If your roof is in need of replacement, you may benefit from the new federal tax credits. If you purchase shingles that meet the federal guidelines for energy efficiency before Dec 31, 2010, you could be eligible for a tax credit of up to $1,500.

A roofing professional can help you decide what’s best for your home and should have all of the information about the tax-break eligibility of the available materials.

Sunrooms let you enjoy natural light year round and can be designed to suit nearly every floor plan. Adding a sunroom to your home is an economical way to expand your living space. Sunrooms typically have a lower construction cost than traditional additions and can be completed in just a few weeks with minimal disruption. Since a sunroom adds to the square footage of your home, adding one can be an upgrade with a good return on investment.

To design a sunroom that suits your needs, enlist the help of a remodeling professional. You may be surprised at the types of sunrooms and options that are available.

Conservatory or Four-Season Sunroom
In the past, a conservatory meant a greenhouse for growing or displaying plants. Today, a conservatory sunroom, often called a four-season sunroom, is a room with mostly glass walls and possibly even a glass paneled roof. They are generally fully insulated, with duct work for heating and cooling for year-round comfort. Insulated, energy-efficient windows are durable and are designed to block the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays, while providing maximum exposure to natural light.

Conservatory and four-season sunrooms can serve as kitchens, living rooms, bedrooms, and home offices. Most homeowners want to be able to use a sunroom year round, so this option is what most people have in mind when they think about adding a sunroom.

Patio Room or Three-Season Sunroom
A three-season sunroom generally has no heating or cooling system. Thus, a three-season sunroom is less expensive than a conservatory or four-season sunroom and may not be suitable for year-round use.

Patio rooms generally are constructed on, or are converted from, an existing structure like a deck or a patio. The supporting structure must be sufficient to support not only the weight of the structure itself, but also any snow or rainwater that falls throughout the year. For this reason, an existing deck may need to be replaced to ensure that footings are sufficient to support the entire structure. Warming from the sun makes the three-season room comfortable in summer and in portions of the spring and fall, but is generally not sufficient in the winter months.

Ask your remodeling or sunroom professional about other options for making your sunroom unique, for example, varying the amount and type of glass or opting for a solid roof structure with skylights. Options are available to satisfy almost any personal preference, meet specific needs, or complement existing architectures. Consider bringing sunshine into your space with a new sunroom.