A frilled cushion cover is distinctly feminine, and adds a softening touch to a room.

The choice of fabrics affects the look of the cushion. A cover made in a crisp stripe with a striped frill has a restrained charm, while a rose-strewn chintz cover with a contrasting or lacy fill, and suggests pure frivolity and romance.

The easiest method of adding a frill to a cushion cover is to use a double frill, so called because it is made with a folding strip of fabric that looks the same on both sides. This type of frill gives the cushion a lovely plump appearance and a very neat finish, with the fold forming the outer edge and the raw edges enclosed in the seam.

Adding piping between the frill and the cushion gives definition to its shape.
For an extremely lavish finish, make two frills of slightly different depths in coordinating fabrics and layer them together.

To make square frilled cushion covers you will need:
Furnishing fabric
Square cushion pad
Tape measure
Sewing thread

1. Cutting out the cover: Measure the sides of the cushion pad. For the front panel, cut one piece of fabric to these measurements plus 5/8 inch (1.5cm) seam allowance all round. For the back panels, cut two rectangles of fabric the length of one side of the cushion pad, plus 1 inches (3cm), by half the adjacent side, plus 4 inches (10cm).

2. Cutting out the frill: Measure all round the cushion pad and double the measurement. Cut strips across the width of the fabric so that when joined they make up this length, by 8 inches (20cm) wide. For a fuller or deeper frill, add to the length or the width of the strip respectively.

3. Preparing the frill: Right sides together, join the frill strips into a circle. Press the seams open. With the wrong sides together, fold the fabric in half lengthways and pin raw edges together. Divide the frill in four and mark with pins.

4. Stitching the gathering: Run two rows of gathering stitches inch (1.2cm) and inch (2cm) in from the raw edges of the frill. Stop and start the stitching half way between the pin marks. This makes it easier for gathering up.

5. Attaching the frill: With the right sides together and raw edges even, pin the frill round the edge of the front cover panel, matching the section marks to the corners. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Adjust the gathers so that they are even, allowing extra fabric at the corners.

6. Attaching the cushion back: On one long edge of each back panel turn under and machine stitch a 5/8 inch (1.5cm) double hem. With the right sides together and the raw edges even, place the two back panels on the front cover panel so that the hemmed edges overlap. Pin, tack and machine stitch a 5/8 inch (1.5cm) seam all round the outer edge, through all layers.

7. Finishing the cushion: Trim the seams and clip the corners to reduce bulk and turn the cover to the right side. Insert the cushion pad and hand stitch circles of Velcro fastening between the back panels of the cushion cover. This will allow for easier removal for washing.

To make round frilled cushion covers
1. For the cushion cover, cut one circle of fabric the size of the cushion pad plus a 5/8 inch (1.5cm) seam allowance all round. Use this circle as a template for cutting the two back panels as follows.

Fold the circle in half and then ease open folded edge to add an extra 4 inches (10cm) from the straight edge. Cut two pieces of fabric to this size, taking car to match directional patterns.

2. For positioning marks, fold the front circle of fabric into quarters and mark the edge of each fold with a pin.

3. To make up the round cover, follow steps 2-7 of square frilled cushion cover. When joining the frill to the front cover panel, match the sections at pin marks.

Walk into most DIY or large hardware stores and you find a wonderful array of attractive strip molding. Simple to apply, wooden moldings can transform an uninteresting door, plain wall or inexpensive piece of furniture into something really special.

Molding for paneling standard-sized doors is also available in kit form. The pre-formed panels come in a choice of sizes and styles, for example, Georgian or Victoria. All you have to do is attach the pre-assemble panels to the door with self-adhesive fixing tape of pins and glue.

Look out for small panel kits too; the panels can be used singly, in pairs or in groups to create a paneled effect on interior walls, bath surrounds, kitchen units and cupboards. You can also find panel kits with curved top sections which look very stylish.

Add molding as an attractive trim to shelf edges, or make up your own creative finishing touches for plain wooden furniture, fireplace surrounds or stair strings. You can add character and interest to featureless surfaces such as flush modern doors or built-in wardrobes.

Strip moldings in a variety of widths and shapes are sold mainly by the meter, though hardwoods are usually available in pre-cut lengths. Various types of wood are used; the most common and the least expensive is pine, which is ideal for a painted finish.

Most moldings are left unfinished, giving you the choice of varnishing, staining or painting them. If you are going to paint them, any knots in the wood must be treated with knotting, availing from hardware stores. It is easier to pain or stain the molding before it is fixed in place, unless you are giving it the same treatment as the surrounding surface.

You can attach strip molding in one of three ways, depending on its size, weight and the surface to which it is being fixed.

Contact adhesive on its own is adequate for fixing short lengths of thin strip molding or where using pins or nails may be difficult, for example, on hollow hardboard covered doors. The bond is instant, so make sure you position accurately.

A pinning and gluing method is usually best for fixing molding to woodwork. Use PVA woodworking adhesive and panel pins, which won’t show when in place. Choose pins that are twice as long and the molding is thick. Position the pins over the thinnest part of the molding and use a nail punch to drive in the heads below the surface. Put the punch over the pin head and strike the punch lightly with a hammer.

Hardened steel wall pins or oval masonry nails are best for fixing molding to solid walls. On hollow walls, nail into the studs (the framework within the hollow wall); knock on the wall and listen for a less hollow tone to find the stud.

To prevent splits in the wood when hammering in pins or nails, start the hole with a bradawl.

If you’d like to do a lot of paneling, or you can’t find a kit in the panel size you want, making your own panels from decorative moldings is a simple and satisfying task. For the best effects on a wall, fix the top strip of a large panel at picture rail height and the lower strip at dado rail height (about waist height).

The key to professional looking paneling is mitering the strips to a neat 45 degree angle to make the corners. To help you do this, use a miter box which is especially designed for this purpose; it has pre-cut angled slots in its sides which guide the saw, ensuring that you get a perfectly angled cut. If your first attempts are less than perfect, you can always fill any gaps with wood filler.

You will need:
Metal rule
Large sheet of paper
Pencil, scissors, masking tape
Plumb line and spirit level
Strip molding
Miter box and tenon saw
Flat piece of scrap wood
Sandpaper
Paint or other finish for molding
Fixing materials

1. Marking the position. Draw the precise panel shape you want on to paper. Cut out and tape it in place, using a plumb line and spirit level for accurate positioning. Stand back to gauge the effect before marking the position.

2. Calculating amounts. Measure all round the panel shape and add extra for wastage. If you are buying molding in pre-cut lengths, check that the joins will not occur in the middle of a panel piece. If necessary buy extra.

3. Measuring and marking. Measure one side of the panel and mark measurements on to the external edges of molding. Anchor miter box on a flat surface and lay scrap wood in the base. Put the molding flat side down on the scrap wood, lining up the mark with one of the slots in the miter box, making sure that the cut is angled in the right direction.

4. Cutting the first miter. Line up marking against the right hand slot of the miter box. With the molding held securely in place, saw firmly through the molding into the scrap wood beneath.

5. Cutting the second miter. Line up the marking against the left hand slot on the miter box and saw cleanly.

6. Making up the panel. Paint, stain or varnish the panel and leave to dry. Butting mitered corners closely, fix molding in place. If necessary use a little wood filler at corners.

If you don’t have a miter box and still want to put up a decorative panel made for strips of molding, look in hardware stores for decorative wooden blocks. Position the blocks at the corners, and butt the straight-cut lengths of molding against the edges. Look out for decorative carved molding to compliment the corner blocks.

These days, most household burglaries are committed by a new type of criminal. They are young, unemployed and very often supporting some sort of drug habit. They are, in a sense, amateur’ burglars.

Only a small majority of intruders are hard-core professionals’ with the skill and equipment to break into any home or property they want to. Therefore, it makes good sense to take simple precautions to foil this majority of amateur’ burglars.

Properly fitted dead-locks’ on doors and keyed security locks on widows are enough to turn away most thieves. Even a professional may move on, rather than spend too much time breaking in.

The best deterrent is being prepared and to make it difficult to get in:
- Make sure all doors and windows are locked.
- For sliding aluminum windows place a length of cut dowel in the track so the window cannot be opened.
- Install deadlocks on all external doors.
- Change locks or cylinders when you move into a new home.
- Never give keys to a workman.
- Install key operated window locks.
- Have good exterior lighting under eaves.
- Don’t leave tools in unlocked tool shed (padlock it).

General precautions:
- Photograph your paintings, antiques, and other valuables.
- Don’t let unauthorized people in.
- Make a note of the serial number of all your appliances.
- Have valuables engraved with your driver’s license number.
- Don’t put identification on a key ring.
- Never leave notes on your door.
- Install a door viewer to check unexpected visitors.

Don’t make it easy for [burglars] if you are out or away on holidays.
- Light your house up with movement activated lights above entrance doors, in the carport, and along pathways.
- Leave outside lights on at night.
- Arrange curtains and blinds in normal open and closed positions.
- Ask a neighbor or friend to keep on eye on your house.
- Shut your garage door and padlock it.
- Advise local police if you will be away for any length of time.
- Ask a neighbor to clear your letter box of circulars, leaflets etc.
- Ask a friend to collect your mail or have it re-directed.
- Cancel newspapers and milk.
- Don’t leave ladders and tools lying around.
- Hang some washing on the line to give a lived in look.

SECURITY LOCKS
The 001 automatic dead latch is a burglar’s nightmare. It is one of the strongest, safest, deadliest locks ever made. The 001 has a tough metal case and concealed fixings at 6 points, so it is almost impossible to prize off. The solid stainless steel bolt resists cutting, jimmying and/or manipulation and deadlocks into position automatically when the door is closed.

The 001 is simple enough to install yourself. It covers most existing night latch outlines, so there is no need for paintwork retouching. It is available in twin pack and is keyed alike. One key fits both locks for front and back doors.

The 001 has a door frame strengthener that has extra long mounting screws that dig deeper into your door frame. This provides you with extra toughness and extra protection against the burglar who attempts to gain entry by kicking in your door.

Padlocks come in a range of sizes and strengths and security levels. When purchasing a padlock, be sure it is fit for its purpose. Consider where the padlock will be used and the optimal size for security and practicality. Choose a padlock with an appropriate corrosive rating for its purpose. For convenience, have the padlock keyed to the rest of your house, for example, for backyard gates and garage doors.

The 777 deadbolt‘s heavy duty construction is designed to provide excellent door security. It is an ideal second lock to the door particularly for use with key in the knob type locks that provide inadequate protection on their own. The 777 features positive deadlocking, plus, double cylinders so it can’t be opened, even from the inside, without a key.

355 deadlocks are attractive, surface mounted top security deadlock, ideal for most sliding and hinged doors in either the home or the work place. Their features include:
- Lockable turn knob with clutching device.
- Turn knob interlocked within the case to resist hammer attack.
- Steel bolt and steel strike to resist cutting and attack.

There are a range of security screen door locks with a double cylinder for extra security coupled with the convenience of lever handle operation from both sides. These locks can be keyed alike to the same key combination as other door locks.

Digital locks are available so there is no need to fumble any more for the right key. Utilize this keyless entry with your own selected code. The digital locks have an inbuilt clutching mechanism which provides extra security under forced attack.

The 680 patio door bolt is ideal for most sliding aluminum and timber patio doors. They also suit hinged doors. This patio lock can be keyed to the same combination as other front and back door locks.

WINDOW LOCKS
As over 50 percent of thieves enter through windows, the following window locks will provide you with extra security.

785 push button keyed window lock features one-touch, push button locking, suits most sliding aluminum windows and is easy to install for face or side mounting.

The 880 security window lock fits most timber-framed windows and some steel-framed windows.

The 870 security window winder suits most timber and aluminum awning windows.

The 885 thru fly screen window lock is a mechanism that locks timber awning windows with or without fly screens.

Composting is the process by which bacteria and other organisms break down dead plant material. For this break down to occur, an active compost pile requires a temperature of 55-70C, adequate moisture and good air circulation.

Properly maintained it will not give off bad odors, or attract insects and animals. To avoid the undesirables, you should note that certain materials should not be used for composting purposes. Meat, fat, bones and dairy products decompose very slowly, cause terrible smells, and attracts vermin and flies, while pet waste can spread unhealthy organisms.

The composting process results in a rich dark humus that is ideal for improving soil quality. This practice makes an excellent organic plant food and creates a rich, natural soil conditioner with a coarse texture that helps loosen heavy clay soils, improving them for healthy root growth. It also improves the water-holding capacity of sandy soils.

Composting also allows you to re-use organic waste, such as lawn clippings and leaves that would otherwise take up space in a dump or landfill.

The easiest way to compost kitchen and garden waste is to create a loose pile where air and water can reach it. For best results the pile should be approximately one meter high by one meter wide. An overhang such as the canopy of a tree would be beneficial as this would prevent the compost heap from getting soaked or blown apart in a storm.

Another efficient option is to purchase a pre-made compost bin from a garden center or hardware store. Some are available in tumbler form. These are cylinders that allow you to rotate materials inside with little effort. The least expensive units are simple round or square plastic bins with a lid and air vents.

Composting materials should be turned regularly with a garden fork to allow for ventilation, which speeds up the decaying process. Turn your compost once every fortnight; using a fluffing action to help add more air to the pile and break up any clumps. Also water lightly to make pile moist but not soggy.

You can compost most organic waste materials such as lawn clippings, vegetable scraps, manures (chook, cow, horse, and sheep), shredded newspaper, twigs and sticks, even wood ash. The key is to add a fairly even mixture of green and brown materials – damp and dry in layers and to chop or shred the materials before adding. The smaller the material, the quicker it will compost. Autumn leaves make an excellent addition to the compost heap but can take some time to break down. If you don’t have a shredder just spread them over your lawn then mow and collect them in the catcher.

When your compost has fully decomposed it becomes a versatile, easy-to-use product which can be dug into sandy of clay ground to make it a more nutrient rich and water retentive soil ideal for raised garden beds and landscape beds.

Compost can be mixed with potting media, 1:3 ratio, or added as a dressing for container potted plants. It acts as a slow release fertilizer reducing the need for chemical feeding.

Apply two or more inches of your compost as mulch. It will protect and keep root zones cool and help conserve moisture while slowly feeding the plants. If applied much thicker or over multiple layers of newspaper it acts as a marvelous weed barrier meaning less time weeding the garden and more time enjoying it.

Remember, today’s garden waste can easily become tomorrow’s rich garden soil through composting.

Most patterns have a clear identity. Not only do their design motifs place them into a specific category either as a floral, check or stripe and so on, but also closely ally them to a particular period or style of decorating. So, while a fine stripe is associated with the graceful elegance of a Regency living room, a jazzy stripe has a more here-and-now feel about it. Some familiar patterns, notably tartans, are seen to have a marked regional bias. You can turn these relationships to your advantage in your decorating by using patterns that reinforce the scene.

TEXTURED

In textured designs, a muted pattern is derived from subtle changes in shade, texture or weave, rather than worked out in a variety of colors. This device is widely used on wallpaper, fabric, tiles and carpets to add interest and detail to the surface. Many fabrics, like damasks for example, have intricate patterns which rely on a reversal of the weave in different areas. The resulting design catches the light in different ways, giving a beautiful subtle effect without strident color contrasts.

Some wallpapers feature a satiny stripe on a matte ground, others, like the old fashioned relief and flock papers, have a raised pattern. All these surfaces offer opportunities to add definition and life to a scheme without adding extra color. Traditionally, the intriguing subtly part in elegant, restrained situations such as a town house living room. Today they are also ideal for creating interest in the latest neutral schemes, where colors are kept to a minimum for a cool, natural look.

ABSTRACT

Abstract patterns tend to be much freer and less rigid that more formal naturalistic designs, giving an irregular, slightly quirky look to textiles and papers. Some are based on geometric shapes dispersed haphazardly across the background. Others feature free brush strokes and random splashes of color as part of the design.

New designs on fabrics, wall coverings and accessories are constantly evolving to reflect contemporary design trends, take advantage of the latest printing techniques or re-interpret traditional motifs in a modern style. Many are executed in vibrant colors which gives them a light-hearted, almost rebellious image. Combined with black and white, or blocks of strong plain colors, and metal furniture they make an up-to-the-minute design statement.

FLORALS

The appeal of flowers is universal. Through the centuries floral motifs have been interpreted and reworked many times in hundreds of different ways. Small floral designs have pretty, delicately colored blooms repeated every few centimeters or so. They are perfect for capturing a cottage look in a kitchen or bringing a fresh innocence to a bedroom layout.

Larger floral patterns can have a glorious, summer garden in full bloom impact on a room. But watch out for really big pattern repeats; it would be a shame to have to chop a full-blown rose in half along the top or bottom of a feature better to choose a smaller pattern.

These designs may be overpowering in large quantities, but smaller amounts can be worked in carefully with other small floral, stripes, checks and plains. This policy is widely adopted in many coordinated ranges. Halls, bedrooms, large sitting rooms and dining rooms are all suitable locations for bold treatments.

In the modern, stylized versions, impressions of flowers rather than realistic representations are drawn into strong patters circular motifs, for example, or continuous, undulating lines. There is a huge variety of interpretations; many of the designs, like lotus flowers and agapanthus used in brocades, date back to Greek and Roman times.

They can be used to add style and dignity to a traditional scheme, or blend in well with a more contemporary look. The popularity of floral motifs is such that they are often found combined with other patterns in a single design stripes interspersed with rows of rosebuds, for instance, or interwoven with swags of twisted ribbon.

STRIPES

With their adjacent bands of different colors or tones, stripes are among the most versatile of patterns. There is a stripe to suit all situations and decorating ambitions and, when used with panache, stripes can play the cleverest of visual tricks, making low ceilings look higher and narrow hall-ways broader.

Discreet self-patterns are the ones to turn to when you want a subtle, textured effect coupled with the orderliness of straight stripes. Perfectly straight stripes, whether self-colored or in sharp contrasts, have a classic, calm feel that brings a sense of formality to a room’s layout. They provide a structured background against which to arrange the rest of your furnishings.

When the need arises, bolder, multicolored stripes make a forceful impression. Used with a confident hand, they form the basis for cheerful and lively schemes which are particularly appropriate for children’s rooms. For a more controlled option, the simplest of stripes, bands of one color on a white or cream background, are perfectly suited to modern apartment style rooms, and make a fresh backdrop for informal furniture styles.

CHECKS

Always fresh and outstanding, woven checked designs are hugely popular, versatile and practical. As natural mixers, they are frequently blended in with other more flamboyant designs in coordinating ranges.

Gingham, Madras, dogtooth and windowpane checks all have a no-nonsense functional feel and disguise dirt and stains well. Such checked cottons have graduated from use as summer slip covers for protecting furniture in eighteenth century houses to play a prominent role in today’s interiors.

Light, Spartan Scandinavian interiors characteristically feature colorful checked cotton on chairs and at windows. On walls, an unobtrusive check can help to unify a motley scheme by fixing individual pieces in a frame.

As with any design, the colors of the checks have a significant bearing on the impression they create. Generally, strong, vivid colors are equated with a bold, jubilant modern approach, while softer, more muted shades translate more satisfactorily into traditional or country schemes.

TARTANS

Originally a woolen clothing textile, these patterns were the uniforms by which different Celtic clans recognized each other. Large blocks of color are broken up by marrow lines of contrasting tones, often in strong combinations like deep greens, red and black. Now produced on cotton, silky taffeta, wallpaper, bedlinen and even cups and saucers, these patterns are very effective in the home, either mixed together or with other designs.

Good for atmosphere in a study or a boy’s bedroom, they can also create a cozy, warm traditional dining room, highlighted with polished wood and pewter.

ETHNIC

The glorious colors and vigorous designs of exotic, faraway places bring an exuberant flavor to an interior. The sources of inspiration are varied and colorful, like their places or origin.

Textile houses draw from tie-dye cottons and vibrant weaves of Africa, batik from Indonesia, ikat weaves from Japan or the kelim rugs of the Middle East, so it is possible to find fabrics by the meter that capture closely the essence of the original cloth.

For an interesting mix, include lengths of authentic fabrics in a scheme. Indian dhurries, batik bedspreads or ikat weaves all blend well with the elements of a traditional or modern scheme and along side other patterns.

PROVENCAL AND PAISLEY

Both Provencal and Paisley patterns have developed over the centuries from patterns on Indian textiles. Their common origin is apparent from the shared teardrop or cone motif.

Provencal colors reflect the brilliant countryside of the South of France, sunshine yellow, rich earthy red and deep blue. The busy designs with their small, repeated motifs work very well closely intermingled with each other. Try using one small sprig repeated in reverse color ways on curtains, a bedspread, tablecloth or place mats. Set this medley of prints against lots of rich dark wood and terracotta flooring for an open air feel in a conservatory or garden room.

Paisleys are named after the Scottish town which became famous for weaving and printing imitation Kashmiri shawls in the eighteenth century. The curled teardrop motif is repeated over the design to give a dense swirling pattern. Each motif has a fine infill of flowers, leaves or birds. Colors were originally rich and exotic, but now Paisleys are often worked in soft mauves and blue to echo the Highland glens. Combine it with tartan for a Scottish feel, or give a dining room drama with deep red walls and glowing Paisley curtains.