The size of your family, the utilities in your area and the space available for your water heater all play a role in determining how to choose a water heater.

Storage Tank Water Heaters
Storage tank water heaters are the most common type and the best water heater to buy. These units have an insulated tank where water is heated and stored until it is needed. They are available in electric, liquid propane (LP) and natural gas models. Natural gas and LP water heaters normally use less energy and are less expensive to operate than electric models of the same size.

Water Heater Size Chart
People Gallons
2 people 30-40
3 people 40
4 people 40-50
5+ people 50-80

Storage tank water heaters are designated by the amount of water they hold, in gallons. Tank size is one of the major considerations when purchasing one of these water heaters. If you intend to use a storage tank water heater, use our chart as a guide to finding the size you need.

Another consideration for storage tank water heaters is recovery rate — the number of gallons of water they can heat in an hour. The greater your demand for hot water, the higher recovery rate you need.

When you buy a water heater, look at the energy efficiency and yearly operating costs of a water heater before you decide which one is right for your needs. This information can be found on the EnergyGuide label.

Know the dimensions of the space where your water heater resides. If your hot water use increases and you need to upgrade to a larger tank size, it may be necessary to run plumbing to a different area so the new, larger unit will fit. One alternative to running new plumbing is to purchase a low boy or shorty water heater. These units are shorter and bigger around than a normal water heater, allowing them to hold the same amount of water as their larger counterparts while still fitting in areas with limited headroom.

Small storage tank water heaters, known as point of use, utility or mobile home water heaters, are good choices for adding hot water to out buildings, shops or garages. Utility water heaters usually range in size from 2.5 to 19 gallons. The largest of these miniature units can also be used to provide hot water to secondary bathrooms that may be situated far from your home’s main water heater.

Tankless Water Heater
Tankless or on-demand water heaters do not store hot water; rather they heat water as it passes through a series of coils in the unit. Since the unit only heats water as you use it, a tankless heater is usually more energy efficient than a traditional storage tank water heater. They are available in electric, LP and natural gas models. A tankless unit can provide an unlimited amount of hot water, but it can only provide a limited volume. Most tankless units can provide up to 3.5 gallons of heated water per minute. These units are a good choice for anyone whose demand doesn’t typically call for hot water at more than two points at a time.

Hot Water Dispenser
Hot water dispensers are great for making instant coffee or hot tea. Hot water dispensers are convenient point of use water heaters. They are great for making soups, sauces, oatmeal and other instant foods. These units provide 190° water instantly, so be careful when using them.

Accessories
There are many accessories available to improve safety and efficiency in your water heater, such as:

Water heater stands raise gas units off the ground and reduce the risk of fire in the event of a flammable liquid spill nearby.

Water heater pans sit under the heater and collect water from leaks or overflows caused by excess pressure in the tank. The pan has an opening in the side for a drain hose to carry away any overflow water.

Water alarms sit either on the floor or in the pan beside the water heater. If the heater leaks or overflows, the alarm will sense the liquid and give an audio alarm to alert the homeowner that there is a problem.

Tank expanders are plumbed to the water heater. They are designed to hold the extra volume of water that can be produced when cold water is heated in the tank.

Pressure regulators are connected to the outlet side of the water heater to keep the water pressure from exceeding a preset limit as it exits the tank. Regulating the pressure helps protect the interior pipes from leaking or bursting due to pressure surges in the plumbing system.

Timers are wired into the unit’s electrical supply and can be set so the water heater only draws electricity at specified times. Running the water heater only when needed cuts down on energy use and saves you money.

Insulating water heater blankets are made especially to fit over the unit and reinforce the insulating ability of the water heater. Insulating blankets are best for heaters that reside in garages or other unheated spaces.

Information courtesy of Lowe’s.

Available Sizes
Wall ovens are available in 24″, 27″ and 30″ widths. The height of the wall oven will depend upon whether it is a double or single oven. Nearly 50 percent of all built-in ovens sold are double oven models and 25 percent of all ovens sold are convection ovens. In new construction, most people choose a 30″ oven as the most popular size. Since your wall oven will be built-in, carefully measure your oven location.

Oven Features in General
Oven interior size – Check the oven cavity size when buying a wall oven to make sure you are getting the size that meets your needs. An oven with six or seven positions for the oven racks allows you to bake more than one dish at a time.

Large multi-loop bake element – The longer multi-loop element, in the bottom of the oven, releases heat more evenly for better baking results.

Hidden bake element – This element is below the oven floor. Spills and spatters or residue from the self-cleaning cycle are easier to wipe up.

Electronic touch controls – The digital display allows more accurate temperature and timer settings. Many electronic controls provide a control “lockout” feature to prevent unintended operation by other members of the household. The lockout feature is also helpful when cleaning the control panel.

High-low broil – This feature offers the ability to choose high or low broiling. Use high broiling for the majority of items. Use low broiling for thicker meats or chicken and fish to ensure that it is completely cooked without searing the outside of the food.

Large, clear-view window and oven light – The clear- view window and oven light allow you to check the cooking process without opening the door.

Convection Oven Information
Cook faster and more evenly with a convection oven. Convection ovens are preferred by professional cooks. Convection ovens use a fan to circulate hot air around food. In addition to a top and bottom element, true European convection models have a third element that surrounds the fan in the rear of the oven. Convection roasting cooks meats up to 25 percent faster. Convection baking is possible on two or even three racks at one time.

Cleaning Options
Self-cleaning ovens reduce spills to a gray ash that can be wiped off with a damp cloth. A self-cleaning oven eliminates the messy chore of hand-cleaning.

Standard-clean ovens require cleaning with soap and water or an oven cleaner. Look for rounded corners inside the oven and a removable oven door to make cleaning easier.

Gas Oven Features
For even baking, check to see that the bottom deflects burner heat.

Removable oven bottom that makes cleaning easier.

Electric Oven Features
Dual bake elements that work together for even cooking.

A tilt baking element that provides easy cleaning of spills on the oven bottom.

Information courtesy of Lowe’s.

Types of switches
A Single-Pole switch controls a light/receptacle in one location only. The switch has two screws of the same color.

A Three-Way switch operates in pairs to control a light/receptacle in two locations. The switch has two screws of the same color (either brass or silver), and one screw of another color (either copper or black). This copper or black screw is called the common terminal screw.

A Dimmer switch is wired as the single-pole switch and have either terminal screws or lead wires.

CAUTION: Before working on any switch, make sure the power to that switch is SHUT OFF.

Replacement Tips
Read ALL information embossed on the back of the new switch, which should have the same amp and voltage ratings as the old.

Pay attention to marks on the replacement switches, and make sure they match up to your existing switch. If your home’s wiring is aluminum, use only replacement switches marked CO/ALR. Replace unmarked switches and switches marked CU/AL with switches marked CO/ALR. Don’t backwire switches to aluminum wiring, attach aluminum wires to terminal screws only.

Replacing a Single-Pole Switch
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Unfasten the wires.
Loop the stripped wired ends clockwise around the terminal screws on the new switch.
Tighten the terminal screws with a screwdriver (hand tight).
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Replacing a Backwired Single-Pole Switch
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Using a small bladed screwdriver, press the screwdriver into the release slots on the back of the switch, then pull wire out of slots.
Push in the stripped wire ends into the slots on the new switch.
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Replacing a Three-Way Switch
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Make sure you label the wire to the common terminal screw with tape.
Install the new switch, attaching the labeled wire to the common terminal screw (black or copper.)
Re-connect each remaining wire to either of the remaining screws.
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Installing Dimmer Switch with Terminal Screws
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Loop the circuit wires clockwise around the terminal screws on the dimmer.
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Installing Dimmer Switch with Lead Wires
Remove the cover plate.
Remove screws and pull out switch carefully.
Connect the circuit wires to the dimmer’s lead wires, twisting them together.
Screw on wire nuts and insert the dimmer in the box.
Replace the switch back into the box so you don’t crimp the wires.
Replace the screws securing the switch to the box.
Replace the cover plate.

Tips on how to strip electrical wires
Use a utility knife or penknife to strip insulation off the ends of the wire.
Use the knife blade to cut through the insulation all the way around, then pull the insulation off the wire.
Be careful not to nick the wire when you cut as a nicked wire breaks more easily.
If you do nick the wire, just start over and cut the wire back to the nick.

For the best results, purchase a wire stripper at your local hardware store.

The first feature to consider is front load vs. top load. The front load machine (also known as H-axis) open from the front, like a commercial washer in a Laundromat. In contrast, a traditional washer (V-axis) opens from the top. How to buy the best washer depends on your space and needs. For buying a clothes washer, keep in mind each type has specific features:

Front Load:
• Can be stacked with a dryer on top to conserve space.
• Spins clothes faster than a top-load, extracting more water. This saves energy (and money), because it allows you to dry a load of clothes in a shorter amount of time.
• Uses a wash process that is more gentle on clothing.
• Requires a special type of detergent made for front-load machines. These detergents are becoming more common on grocery store shelves, but they might not be available everywhere. They also might cost a little more.
• Costs more. Prices vary, but expect to pay 30 percent to 40 percent more for a front-load machine than you would for a comparable top-load machine.
• Uses less water, which lowers utility bills. This savings can offset the additional cost of the machine, but it usually takes several years for the numbers to balance.

Top Load:
• Includes a wider variety of available models, colors and features.
• Costs less initially, but is less energy-efficient.
• Offers easier access to the wash tub.
• Uses regular detergent.
• Cannot easily be stacked to save space.

Other Features to Consider:
Capacity: Since manufacturers define capacity differently, one “extra large” washer may not be the same as another. When comparing capacity, use the cubic foot measurement to make comparisons. If your space is limited, you might want to look for a stackable washer-dryer unit. These are available either full-sized — with a front-load washer — or in smaller, apartment-sized sets. Match the capacity of your washer to your dryer. You will defeat the purpose of increased efficiency if you have a super-sized washer but a dryer that will hold only half the load. Like most large appliances today, a washer will last for years, so plan for the future and consider possible changes in your family size.

Tub material: Some tubs are made of porcelain-coated steel, which can deteriorate if the porcelain chips. In higher-end models, look for a plastic tub that will last the life of the machine. The best models have stainless steel tubs.
Water levels: The most efficient wash uses only enough water to cover the clothes. A washer with several water level settings allows you to use small amounts of water for small loads of clothes.

Cycles: Many models include permanent press, delicate and extra soak or extra rinse cycles. Look for a model with options that will give your clothes the care they need. Different wash/spin speed combinations allow you to wash more types of clothing in ways that are safest for the fabric.

Water temperature: Using the correct water temperature will make your garments look better and last longer. Detergents, bleaches and fabric softeners work best at specific temperatures. Many of today’s washers include several wash/rinse temperature options. In situations where the water coming into the washer is particularly cold, automatic temperature regulators make sure the wash water stays at a constant, correct temperature. For example, the standard hot/cold mix that a washer uses to create “warm” water might not give warm enough results if it is winter in Minnesota and the water coming from the cold pipe is frigid. Temperature regulators add different amounts of hot water as needed to make sure “warm” is the correct temperature.

If you will be washing items that require sanitizing, look for a model that offers a temperature boost function. Even an all-hot wash from a regular home hot-water heater might not reach a high enough temperature to kill germs.
Noise level: If your washer will be in or near a living area, the noise the unit makes will be a consideration. Some newer models offer additional insulation and reinforced frames to reduce operating noise.

Safety: Front-load machines include an automatic lock function that prevents the door from opening while the drum is spinning. The same feature is available on certain top-load models.

Controls: Washing machine controls have become more sophisticated and generally easier to use. Digital displays and one-touch selection can be programmed and preset to meet your washing needs. For a simpler wash process, choose a machine with dial and/or push-button controls.

Bleach and fabric softener dispensers: The chemicals (detergent, bleach, fabric softener) you use are a key part of garment care. Dispensers will automatically disperse them at the correct time.

Energy Star rating: The Energy Star label — conferred by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency — indicates that a washing machine uses 35 percent to 50 percent less water and 50 percent less energy than a non-labeled machine. That makes the machine better for the environment and better for your wallet.

Information courtesy of Lowe’s.

I’m not saying that it’s impossible to take advantage of another’s misfortune or changed circumstances, only that it often produces undesired results. It’s more likely a recipe for both parties to lose. If an agreement can be worked out that both parties are happy with, a synergy can be created that will be mutually beneficial, with outstanding results.

I operate a five year old Home Improvement company called Details Home Services. As a contractor in the Northern Virginia/DC Metro area, I visit the local Home Depot stores almost daily, and know much of the staff. In the last year, many of my competitors have gone out of business. The ProDesk is less busy, much like the rest of the store. Management confirms the slowdown.

Those of us that remain in business have multiple reasons. But there is business out there, and good business. At present, I have more qualified prospects than at any other time in the 5 year life of my business. In this down economy, I may be willing to make certain concessions, but am very concerned with any potential dilution of my value proposition, and that’s my key.

I’ve never competed on low price, rather on high value. I operate a “high touch” business, where I spend lots of time with my prospects to make them customers, and lots more to make them happy customers. My best client is one who expects a lot, but puts high value on customer service, attention to detail, and the process as well as the end result of a home improvement project. As such, while willing to negotiate, I prefer a straight-forward approach. Tell me your motivations and constraints, and let me tell you mine. There should be a good compromise if both parties act in good faith.

I often tell prospects that there are three key issues with a home improvement project: time, quality, and cost. They get to choose any two, but only two. If they want high quality and a fast turnaround, it will cost a lot. If timeframe is more flexible, a high quality job can be delivered for less cost. A fast job done quickly is unlikely to be high quality.

I have three recommendations. The first is obvious: get multiple bids. Have a budget in mind, and know what you want done. The better you can describe the what and why of your plans, the better contractors will be able to provide good proposals to bring them to life. Second, decide the level of detail you want and need, AND are willing to pay for. While discussing the project, pay attention to what the contractor says, and how he says it. If he leads with price, he might not be the contractor you want, as he’s showing his value, or lack of it. The one you want is the one who stresses his strengths, but is humble enough to make concessions that add to the experience.

All dryers spin clothes around and blow hot air on them. How to select a dryer depends on your needs. The details are what drive the choice of a machine.

Energy source: Whether you choose a gas dryer or an electric one will be based largely on what kind of hookup is available at the new dryer’s location. Gas appliances usually cost slightly more initially, but tend to be more energy- efficient. A leading consumer affairs magazine estimates that a gas dryer costs 30 cents less per load to operate.

Capacity: Since manufacturers define capacity differently, one “extra large” dryer might not be the same as another.When choosing what dryer to buy, compare capacity using the cubic foot measurement. If your space is limited, stackable washer-dryer units are available.

Coordinate the capacity of your dryer with that of your washer. You’ll defeat the purpose of increased efficiency if you have a super-sized dryer but a washer that can only supply a half-capacity load (or vice-versa). The general rule is to have about twice as much capacity in the dryer than in the washer. So if you buy a 3.3 or 3.5 cu. ft. washer, you will need a 7 cu. ft. dryer. (You need more dryer space because the clothes need room to flop around.)

When in doubt, err on the side of larger when choosing a dryer. More dryer capacity will allow the clothes to dry more quickly, which saves money on your energy bill and is better for the environment. Like most large appliances today, a dryer will last for years. Plan for the future and consider possible changes in your family size when buying a dryer.

Controls: As with washers, controls on dryers have become more sophisticated, yet easier to use. Digital displays and one-touch selection can be programmed and preset to meet your drying needs. For a simpler operation, choose dial or push-button controls.

Temperature settings: Different fabrics require different drying times and temperatures. Your clothes will look newer longer, plus have fewer wrinkles, if they are dried using the correct settings. At a minimum, most machines offer “cotton” and “permanent press” settings, with “more dry” and “less dry” options. Choose a dryer with settings that meet your needs. A cool-down cycle will keep the drum spinning for a certain amount of time after the clothes are dry in order to prevent wrinkling.

Noise level: Choose a quiet machine if your dryer will be in or near a living area. Some newer models have additional insulation and reinforced frames to reduce operating noise.

Moisture sensors: While older dryers use thermostats or timers, newer models have moisture sensors that stop the cycle when the humidity in the drum falls below a certain level. This prevents over-drying and extends the life of your garments. This feature can also make ironing easier and save energy.

Drying rack: This feature allows you to dry heavier or bulkier items — such as canvas shoes — without tumbling.

Drum light: Socks and other small items can “disappear” in the back of the machine. A drum light makes it easier to find them.

Lint filter: Higher-end models have sensors that warn you when the lint filter is blocked. Whichever model you choose, make sure to vent the dryer properly and clean the lint filter regularly to avoid a risk of fire.

Information courtesy of Lowe’s.

The key to getting dishes clean is using very hot water. Some dishwashers have a device that raises the temperature of the water coming out of your water heater.

Another feature you’ll like is a built-in food disposer. It grinds up food particles and flushes them out with the waste water. So they won’t end up re-deposited on your dishes.

Check the size of the spray holes on the wash arms. The smaller the holes are, the more scrubbing power they provide your dishwasher.

Check to be certain the dishwasher offers the cycles you need for the types of dishes you have. From pots and pans to fine china and crystal there’s a cycle for just about anything.

If you wash dishes only once every two or three days, you’ll want a rinse and hold cycle to prevent build up.

Make sure the rack system will allow you to load the dishes easily. Some dishwashers feature fold-down shelving to give you greater flexibility.

A delay-start timer will start your dishwasher when the energy rates are lower.

Some dishwashers use sensor technology to detect how dirty the dishes are and then adjust the cycle accordingly. You can start the washer with a touch of a button, and this feature prevents water from being wasted.

The amount of insulation around the dishwasher tub reduces the noise, so check to see how thick the insulation is. Thicker insulation will make the dishwasher more quiet.

Information courtesy of Lowe’s.

Make a budget for the new cabinet upgrade
Over 40% to 50% of the total budget will be devoted to your cabinet upgrade in your kitchen or bathroom remodeling project. Take this into account when setting your total budget, but make sure you choose your cabinets wisely, as this important step will set the tone of your new kitchen or bathroom and play a major role in transforming your space.

Take measurements where the cabinets are being placed
You can take initial measurements just to get a feel for what space you have available for new cabinets. But before ordering the cabinets, you will need a professional to come in and measure for you, ensuring the proper cabinets are ordered, and will fit in the space given.

Choose between stock, semi-custom, or custom cabinets
Your budget will dictate the type of cabinet you will get as stock cabinets are the least expensive, but are limited to standard sizes and color. For more variety, you can choose a semi-custom cabinet which is factory-built in standard sizes, but have many options for storage, design and style. If you are looking for the high-end, you may choose the custom cabinet option, which gives you the most choices in color, style, wood, and finish. These cabinets are constructed in either a workroom to designer specifications or on-site.

Choose from the many options that cabinet design offers
Choosing between stock, semi-custom, and custom will also dictate the type of storage available. Stock cabinets have few options beyond drawers and cupboards, whereas semi-custom and custom cabinets offer an endless array of storage options such as pullout shelves, a lazy Susan, wine racks, vertical dividers for trays and cookie sheets, an appliance garage, or pullout bins.

Choose the quality of the cabinet you desire
The quality may depend on how long will leave in the home you are upgrading. If you are planning to “settle” down in this home, then you should choose top quality cabinets. Purchase cabinets that have solid frames, door and drawer fronts, reinforced corners and closed backs. Because the drawers and doors will be opened and closed many times a day, you want them to operate smoothly and quietly.

Choose what decorating style you want for the cabinet
If you are not sure what look you are going for in your kitchen or bathroom, look through magazines that show different styles and colors of cabinetry. Think about how the cabinets might go with your architecture of your home as well as the interior design of the other rooms.