Weatherstripping windows is easy

For Double-Hung Windows:

1. Clean the bottom of the sash with soap and water and let dry.

2. Cut the foam weatherstripping to length.

3. Peel the back from the foam. Press the adhesive side of the foam against the bottom of the sash to form a tight bond.

4. Clean the jamb with soap and water. Allow it to dry completely.

5. Cut two pieces of V-channel 1″ longer than each sash height.

6. Peel the back from the V-channel and work it between the sash stiles and the jamb. Press the channel firmly into the jamb.

7. Drive finish nails through the weatherstripping into the jamb to hold it securely. Test the sash to ensure it doesn’t catch on the nails.

8. Clean the back of the bottom sash with soapy water and allow it to dry completely.

9. Cut a piece of V-channel to match the width of the sash.

10. With the sash raised 3″ to 4″, peel the back from the channel and press it firmly into the back of the sash even with the top. The V should open facing up so the weatherstripping compresses when the window is closed.

For Casement Windows:

1. Open the window and clean the outside of the stops with soapy water. Allow the stops to dry completely.

2. Cut self-adhesive foam to fit the top, bottom and sides of the stops.

3. Remove the back from each piece of foam and press it into the outside of the stops.

Article courtesy of Lowe’s.

The back wall needs to be relatively square at the corner. This is more true if you intend to put cabinets around the corner. A corner that is not square can create real problems for the do-it-yourself project. As long is it is not off more than about an inch over a distance of about 10 feet, you will probably be able to hide it with trim, spacers, and caulk. For amounts more than that, you may want to call in a professional for advice.

Any appliances that will be installed along with the cabinets need to be taken into consideration while planning the project. Will the stove be a full size, drop-in, or range top? This will change your requirements. For a regular stove, just stop the cabinets about 1/4 to 1/2 inch on either side. With a drop-in, the cabinets need to come right up to the edge so that the top of the stove can meet the counter. For a range top, the cabinets will run right on through the area. However, you will need to plan for the electric in all three cases.

The placement of a sink will be critical. It will have to be plumbed. If a dishwasher is being installed, the slot to the left or right of the sink is the idea place for it. This will make it easy to run the supply and drain lines. Do not forget that the counter has to be cut for the sink.

Normally, the cabinets will sit on the floor. Measure the height of the cabinets and mark a line along the wall. This will give you a guide for keeping the tops of the cabinets level. Once all of the cabinets are placed and fit properly, screw them to the wall and to each other. Be careful not to leave any screw points sticking out where they can cut a hand or arm reaching into the cabinet.

When the cabinets are solidly attached, bring in the counter top. Put it in place. Do whatever adjustments are necessary to make the corner joint fit right. This is where spacers come in. When you have the counter top placed, screw it down from underneath. Use silicone or caulk along the back. With a little care, you will be able to hide any extra gaps with this caulk.

After the cabinets are installed, attach any hardware like door handles that you need. Install the sink and stove. Check for leaks and that the stove works properly, and the job is complete.

For more articles by this author, go to Helium.

Below are a few tips to keep you safe while working on any electrical projects:

Never work on any live circuit, fixture, receptacle, or switch.

Always shut off power at the main disconnect before changing a fuse.

Always shut off power to the circuit before repairing or replacing a switch, receptacle, or fixture.

Always tape over the main switch, empty fuse socket, or circuit breaker, empty fuse socket or circuit breaker when you’re working. Leave a note there so no one will accidentally turn on the electricity. Keep any fuses you’ve removed in your pocket.

Always check that the circuit is actually dead before you begin working on it. Use a circuit tested or voltammeter.

Always unplug any appliance or lamp before repairing it.

Stay Safe.

“These Rayovac Maximum Plus Alkaline Batteries are cosmetically imperfect. So yes, when your friends and family open your remote control, your mp3 player, your hand battery operated hand tools, or your child’s toys, they’re going to get a glimpse of your embarrassing battery blemishes. However, if you can overcome the name calling “Blemished Battery Buyer Person” and the like, your in for a heck of a great savings. But beware, these batteries never made it into their intended packaging, so you’ll have to store them in the embarrassing box we send ‘em in or use your own container….So, do these batteries a favor and let them know they needn’t feel used and discarded….at least not until they’ve been used and you discard them.”

# 100 unpackaged AAA batteries
# Cosmetically blemished, but otherwise new and in perfect working order
# Alkaline batteries
# Approximate ship date of May 14, 2009
# Batteries have expiration dates in 2010-2013 so they’re good for quite some time.
# These batteries are new, not recharged and not tested and slightly used or pulled out of some camera. They are new, unused, have plenty of remaining dating, they just have cosmetic blemishes.

Go to GraveYardMall to order your lot.

Here’s a quick way to pinpoint the problem:
1. Turn the timer slightly to start the fill cycle, and listen closely. If you hear buzzing but very little water is entering the machine, chances are good the fill valve or screens are plugged up.

2. If you hear nothing and aren’t getting any water, the electrical part of the fill valve could be broken, or the problem could be in the timer or another electrical component. Without getting into electrical diagnostics, you can still check the fill valve by removing it and taking it to an appliance parts dealer for testing. If the valve is bad, buy a replacement. Otherwise, put it back in and call an appliance repair person.

Caution: UNPLUG APPLIANCE!

We’re repairing a belt-drive Kenmore washer. Repair procedures are slightly different for other washers. Here’s a guide to what you’ll find:
1. A large cover plate on the back of the washer indicates a belt-drive machine. The valve must be removed.

2. If instead of a large cover plate you find a small cover plate around the valve itself, you most likely have a direct-drive machine. The valve is attached to this small cover plate. Simply remove the cover plate screws to access the valve.

3. Some direct-drive Kenmore and Whirlpool washers have no cover plates. Accessing the fill valve on these machines is a bit more work. You must remove the metal shell that covers the front and sides of the machine to get at the valve.

Heed these words of wisdom before you start:
1. Always unplug the washer before working on it.

2. Close the water valves before removing the hoses. Check the condition of the hoses and replace them if they show any signs of wear. A hose that bursts while you’re out of the house will cause a major mess. Always replace the rubber washers at both ends of the hoses.

3. Flush the hoses before you reconnect them to the washer. This will prevent dislodged debris from clogging the inlet valve or screen.

Close the water valves and unscrew the hoses from the fill valve. Check the hose ends. Some hoses have screens in them that must be removed and cleaned. Remove the screens from the inside of the fill valve. Use a small screwdriver to pry them out. Scrape them with a pocketknife to remove built-up scale. Rinse the screens in water and reinstall them. Reconnect the hoses. Turn on the water and set the washer to fill. If it still fills slowly, replace the fill valve.

Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the hex head sheet metal screws that hold the valve to the washer. Lift the top of the washer by reaching through the lid and pulling the top toward you and up to disengage it from the metal clips. Then lift the top and tilt it back. Lean the top against the wall or support it with a length of chain or cord to keep it from falling too far back and straining the hinge clips.

Reach down behind the washer tub and pull out the fill valve. Change the wires from the old valve to the new valve one at a time to ensure correct placement. Use a pliers to loosen the hose clamp and slide it down the hose. Twist the hose off the old valve and onto the new one. Universal fill valves come with a small piece of tubing. To get a tight fit, you may have to slip this over the new valve before reconnecting the old hose. Clamp the hose. Install the new valve by reversing the removal procedures. Connect the water hoses, turn on the water and plug in the washer.

As posted by The Family Handyman online at Reader’s Digest.

New faucets are easy to take apart, and replacement parts are readily available at most hardware stores, home centers and plumbing supply stores. Of course, there are still many different brands and styles, so it’s best to shut the water off, disassemble the faucet, and take the parts along to assure a perfect match.

If your faucet leaks from the spout, replace the seats and springs. If it continues to drip from the spout after replacing the seats and springs, replace the cartridge, too. If your faucet leaks around the handles, the O-rings on the cartridge are bad. Buy a new kit that includes a new cartridge and O-rings.

Kits containing faucet repair parts are readily available at hardware stores and home centers. We spent $3 for a set of seats and springs that fit both Delta and Peerless faucets. You’ll also need a small tube of plumber’s grease. Leaks usually develop on the hot side, but replace the seats on both hot and cold sides while you’re at it.

Shut off the water to the sink. Remove the faucet handles. Most are held on by retaining screws under the caps on the top of the handles. Our handles were held on with small Allen screws located under the handle. Then unscrew the large nut that holds the cartridge in.

Pull straight up on the cartridge to remove it. Use a pliers if you have to, but be sure to protect the cartridge with tape or a rag. Note the orientation of the cartridge to the notches in the faucet so you can reinstall it the same way. Remove the old seat and spring with a small screwdriver.

Drop the new spring into the recess and push the new seat in with your finger. Spread a thin layer of plumber’s grease around the cartridge. Push the cartridge into the faucet, aligning it with the notches. Then tighten the large retaining nut with the wrench and replace the handles.

As posted by The Family Handyman online at Reader’s Digest.

If you encounter frozen pipes, take the following steps immediately to thaw them out before they burst.
1. Open the faucet to allow the water to flow (no matter how slow). This will help the ice to melt on the pipes and inside.

2. Apply heat from a hair dryer or electric heat pad. Fan the hair dryer back and forth until the ice starts to melt or wrap the heating pad around the pipes and wait. Make sure that you do not use an open flame (butane torch) or too hot of heat to melt the ice as this may cause the water to boil and break the pipes.

3. If you cannot locate where the pipes are frozen, then call a licensed plumber for help.

Prevention is the best way to avoid frozen pipes, so before you leave, try one of two things, or both:
Turn the water faucet on to a slow stream which will allow water to pass through the pipes and prevent freezing. Or the more environmental way is to wrap the pipes with a foam sleeve, especially those pipes located along the exterior walls or outside.

These numbers are staggering, but a little home safety awareness can keep you from the hospital and from being a statistic for next year.

Ladders: 227, 769 injuries reported in one year.
“Falls happen when guys lean over a little too far,” says Meri-K Appy of the Home Safety Council. A good rule of thumb is if your belt buckle goes past either side of the ladder, then you have reached too far. Climb down the ladder and reposition making sure that for every four feet that you have to climb up the ladder, that the base is one foot away from the wall/house.

Power Saws: 83,747 injuries reported in one year.
Dr. Steven Johnson of the University of Maine cooperative extension states that “[s]ince dull blades don’t cut well, you may hit a knot or staple in the wood and the saw may jerk out of your hands or kick back.” First, you should test the blades’ sharpness by cutting a small piece of wood scrap to see if the blade cuts clean or rips the wood. If it rips the wood, then a new blade is on order. You can always resharpen your blades, but replacement is better.

Snow Shovels: 26,117 injuries reported in one year.
These injuries are mostly back injuries, which Dr. Arya Nick Shamie, an associate professor of spine surgery at UCLA stresses that “[y]ou shouldn’t pick up more than 10 to 15 percent of your body weight” when shoveling snow. You should turn your foot in the direction that you want to throw the snow to avoid any twisting motion. Twisting strains that back. Using a shovel with a bent handle is also helpful as “[i]t keeps your spine in a more neutral position,” says chiropractic orthopedist Dr. Douglas Krebs.

Barbecue Grills: 20,677 injuries reported in one year.
The cause of most grill injuries is due to gas leaks. Over the winter, the grill usually sits dormant in the cold weather, allowing the hoses to freeze, and possibly crack. Then comes summer when you want to light up the grill not realizing the hoses are damaged, and next thing you know, the whole grill is in flames and you along with it. Test your grill before using it by pouring soapy water at the hose connection and all along the hose. Turn the gas on slightly, and if bubbles form or you smell the gas, shut the tank off, and buy a new hose. Make sure all the gas has cleared before trying to light.

Fireplaces: 17, 142 injuries reported in one year.
Sitting by the fire and reading a good book is one way to pass by the winter blues, but burning your garbage is not. Burning household waste can release harmful chemicals into the air. Remember to always use seasoned wood that is dry, as fresh, green wood can cause a buildup of creosote which can coat the chimney and increase your fire hazard. Before using your fireplace in the winter, or after seasonal use, have a chimney sweep inspect your fireplace and flue for damage or buildup, then clean as necessary.

Nail Guns: 14,800 injuries reported in one year.
Carter Oosterhouse, host of HGTV’s Carter Can expresses the need to holding the nail gun perpendicular to the mark so the nail does not shoot to the side, where your finger might be. He says to keep your hands at least four inches away from where you want the nail to go. If don’t use a nail gun as often, think about using a lightweight one as it is easier to handle.

Wires: 11,971 injuries reported in one year.
Extension cords are being used as a permanent plug by three out of four Americans, increasing their risk of fires according to the Electrical Safety Foundation International. Those cords are then being shoved up under furniture to hide them and that is the very action that causes the hazard. When the cords are “hidden” the become bent up, cracked, and the wires become exposed which can lead to an ignition and then a fire. Hiring an electrician to add more outlets may cost a bit more than a few electrical cords, but it will keep you safer.